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Ogden & Cache Valley RR - Layout Construction

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Saturday, December 22, 2018 9:38 AM

riogrande5761

 

 
Doughless
Here in suburbia, where I think Jim also resides, you have to get a permit to convert studded unfinished space into finished drywall space, as the local government assumes it will now be living space.  In my old suburban locale, once you decided to convert the basement to living space, you HAD to install an outlet a minimum of every 12 linear feet of finished wall as to prevent the use of extension cords everywhere. 

Yes, an inspection is required prior to drywall to make sure the work is done up to professional sandards, but the homeowner can do it themselves if they have the skill/knowledge.

Getting the permit also allows real estate sales agents to officially increase the square footage of the house, whereas its generally illegal to include unpermitted space in the listing's square footage.  It generally goes by tax records.

Of course, the permit allows the government to know you've just increased the square footage, increased the value,  which provides a reason to increase your real estate taxes.  So there's that angle.  And around my particular area of yuppyville, quite a few people skip the permit process and finish their basements themselves to avoid the increase in assessed value a permit would reveal.

 

Doughless is spot on in everything he said.  I guess I could try doing it all under the table but I risk problems later if I did and buyers walking away.  By getting a permit and having passed the inspection, future buyers have a least some modicum of confidence that the basement framing (done by the previous owner), plumbing, electrical, mechanical, fire safety, etc is completed to some level of standard and been inspected and approved.

My wife and I house hunted in a range areas in Maryland and we're very disappointed with what we saw and did not like it at all.   I've lived all over the country (TX, MA, IN, S.CA, N.CA, upstate NY, VA  etc) and have some means of comparison. 

The apparent lack of controls in Maryland mentioned here help to explain what Ive observed and likely a lower standard of code enforcement means less confidence in what you buy.  When you buy a house, could be dodgy work done on it.  Obviously there is no 100% guarantee anywhere but if MD is that slack, not good.

 

 

I understand, and in many ways I agree. My wife and I just bought our new to us retirement home after a long, careful search. We saw a lot of junk - old and new...... 

The home we selected was built in 1964, added on to in the late 1970's.

In my opinion it is way better constructed than most homes build in the last 30 years - with or without possible sub-standard "side work" remodeling.

As a construction professional who specializes in older/historic properties, and who has very high personal standards of quality, I have little use for cheap modern materials like vinyl siding and hollow cardboard doors - I have a low tollerance for cheap shoddy work, inspected or not, and I have little respect for government regulations/enforcement not based in common sense.

Sure, lots of shoddy work gets done without permits, and lots of shoddy work gets done with them........

Property taxes here are based on appraisals that are only reviewed every three years, and increases are limited by law on owner occupied properties. So permits for construction work have only a minimal effect on your taxes.

Repairs and minor upgrades are not considered "increases" in property value, and as explained before, repairs do not generally require permits - even fairly major ones.

Our county, and many others in Maryland, are just beginning to keep the kind of records, and provide access to those records, that would provide the protection you are suggesting.

So that really is a non existant situation here. The county can tell me when my well was drilled or when my septic system was repaired, that's about it. Any details about the original construction of this house, or it's 1970's add ons, is not to be found in any government office - so no Real Estate agent is going to get in trouble for something that cannot be proven either way.

And, I would say that where we live, there are still way more houses over 50 years old than ones less than 50 years old - the world was different 50 or 100 years ago......remember, the house we are leaving just a few miles away was built in 1901....... 

All that being said, you think its bad here? Go to rural PA, or WV - some areas you can still build a house with just a septic and electrical permit...........

Sheldon 

PS - disclaimer - for the record, I am not the sort of person who would ever choose to live in some neatly manicured, carefully regulated, busy body HOA, carefully planned, cookie cutter sub-division - and my perspective on this topic is colored accordingly.......

    

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Posted by rrebell on Saturday, December 22, 2018 8:38 AM

I lived in maryland and everything is county by county, just as out here in SF bay area. Citys have their own rules that sometimes have nothing to do with the national, not as likely in smaller venues. I was there when Romex first came into common use. This part of thread got  me to look up stuff, never knew that there was asbestos in some old wiring and that knob and tube was still allowed in NY untill 1975. As to hyjacking thread, onewolf himself said he is only starting to get back to the layout, look at this part of thread as good information till he starts posting regular again.

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Posted by riogrande5761 on Saturday, December 22, 2018 7:40 AM

Doughless
Here in suburbia, where I think Jim also resides, you have to get a permit to convert studded unfinished space into finished drywall space, as the local government assumes it will now be living space.  In my old suburban locale, once you decided to convert the basement to living space, you HAD to install an outlet a minimum of every 12 linear feet of finished wall as to prevent the use of extension cords everywhere. 

Yes, an inspection is required prior to drywall to make sure the work is done up to professional sandards, but the homeowner can do it themselves if they have the skill/knowledge.

Getting the permit also allows real estate sales agents to officially increase the square footage of the house, whereas its generally illegal to include unpermitted space in the listing's square footage.  It generally goes by tax records.

Of course, the permit allows the government to know you've just increased the square footage, increased the value,  which provides a reason to increase your real estate taxes.  So there's that angle.  And around my particular area of yuppyville, quite a few people skip the permit process and finish their basements themselves to avoid the increase in assessed value a permit would reveal.

Doughless is spot on in everything he said.  I guess I could try doing it all under the table but I risk problems later if I did and buyers walking away.  By getting a permit and having passed the inspection, future buyers have a least some modicum of confidence that the basement framing (done by the previous owner), plumbing, electrical, mechanical, fire safety, etc is completed to some level of standard and been inspected and approved.

My wife and I house hunted in a range areas in Maryland and we're very disappointed with what we saw and did not like it at all.   I've lived all over the country (TX, MA, IN, S.CA, N.CA, upstate NY, VA  etc) and have some means of comparison. 

The apparent lack of controls in Maryland mentioned here help to explain what Ive observed and likely a lower standard of code enforcement means less confidence in what you buy.  When you buy a house, could be dodgy work done on it.  Obviously there is no 100% guarantee anywhere but if MD is that slack, not good.

 

Rio Grande.  The Action Road  - Focus 1977-1983

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Friday, December 21, 2018 10:30 PM

7j43k

 

 
ATLANTIC CENTRAL

Why was a service conduit that shallow? Not allowed here, in or out of conduit.

 

 

 

 

Who said it was shallow?

It was a commercial storefront.  The guys were earthquaking the building, and they were "doin' stuff" to the foundation.  My recollection was that the pipe was about 4-5' below the floor/sidewalk.  The lad was working in a fairly deep hole, to be that far down.  It's of interest that he didn't notice anything until he'd killed at least half the building.  But when you're in a hole with a jack hammer, I guess you might be missing some subtle hints of trouble.

 

Here (SF Bay Area), all above-ground service conductors must be in rigid conduit (steel or aluminum).  It's been that way since about when knob-and-tube stopped.  Thus I've never seen SE used.

PVC can be used underground, but you have to use a wide sweep in rigid steel to come up.  They require such big pipe for underground service that no one would want to do the whole run in steel.

 

Ed

 

OK, we put commercial services in city streets in concrete duct banks here. I've wired buildings in downtown Baltimore, steel mills, pumping stations, factories, etc.

But earthquakes and wildfires are not much of a threat here, but snow and ice is. So I'm very happy my main disconnect is indoors. And natural gas powers my standby generator - big enough to run the whole house.

We are worlds apart...........

Sheldon

    

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Friday, December 21, 2018 10:22 PM

ROBERT PETRICK

Onewolf has a teriffic layout going on and a teriffic online chronicle to document the work. All this stuff about conduit and breaker boxes and pinheaded local inspectors and whatnot is very beguiling, but I'd hate to see this thread devolve into a thread about home improvement.

Robert

 

Robert, Onewolf himself has commented on this, who are you to be his thread police?

It's called conversation, and it will get back to his layout soon enough.

I too am starting a new layout, and have already started a thread about my design process and goals which I believe you have commented on.

Trust me, I will, and have already, let that conversation go where it likes. I will steer it back to my progress when the time is right.

And I'm sure Onewolf is a big boy who can steer this thread, and I will respect any wishes he expresses.

Sheldon

    

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Posted by mbinsewi on Friday, December 21, 2018 9:49 PM

I agree with you, Robert.  Let the electrical experts argue about this somewhere else.

I can't wait until Mr. Onewolf startes his scenery!

Mike.

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Posted by ROBERT PETRICK on Friday, December 21, 2018 9:42 PM

Onewolf has a teriffic layout going on and a teriffic online chronicle to document the work. All this stuff about conduit and breaker boxes and pinheaded local inspectors and whatnot is very beguiling, but I'd hate to see this thread devolve into a thread about home improvement.

Robert

LINK to SNSR Blog


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Posted by 7j43k on Friday, December 21, 2018 8:37 PM

ATLANTIC CENTRAL

Why was a service conduit that shallow? Not allowed here, in or out of conduit.

 

 

Who said it was shallow?

It was a commercial storefront.  The guys were earthquaking the building, and they were "doin' stuff" to the foundation.  My recollection was that the pipe was about 4-5' below the floor/sidewalk.  The lad was working in a fairly deep hole, to be that far down.  It's of interest that he didn't notice anything until he'd killed at least half the building.  But when you're in a hole with a jack hammer, I guess you might be missing some subtle hints of trouble.

 

Here (SF Bay Area), all above-ground service conductors must be in rigid conduit (steel or aluminum).  It's been that way since about when knob-and-tube stopped.  Thus I've never seen SE used.

PVC can be used underground, but you have to use a wide sweep in rigid steel to come up.  They require such big pipe for underground service that no one would want to do the whole run in steel.

 

Ed

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Friday, December 21, 2018 7:13 PM

7j43k

I prefer to install main disconnects (in single family buildings) on the outside.  

 

One reason is for the fire department, which can be stymied by the concept of pulling a meter out (which does, admittedly, leave two energized meter jaws exposed during a rather frantic time).  

 

The other is that the serving utility in this area will require rigid steel conduit up to the main breaker, wherever it is.  Their view seems to be that the conductors are much more dangerous before the main breaker than after it.

As an example, I repaired a job where one of the lads ran a jack hammer bit through the underground service conduit.  Since there was no real circuit breaker, the fault was cleared by vaporizing some rather large copper wire and the bit.

 

Ed

 

Well none of that is the case on residential structures here in the Mid Atlantic. The utility here has a different view.

Indoor main breaker load centers are the prefered method. Underground services are fed with direct burial cable, protected in PVC between grade and the meter can.

SE cable from meter can into structure to panel, no conduit required.

Many older homes still overhead fed, SE cable down the house from weatherhead, into meter, then into structure. They do prefer minimum SE cable inside on the unfused side. We still have lots of overhead distribution.

My father was, and my son is a fire fighter. They seldom pull meters here........they call the utility, they cut the wires at the pole or pull the transformer tap on underground feeds.

Winter weather is a major factor in making outdoor main breakers undesirable here........and in many cases unsafe as it could prevent access in bad weather.

Why was a service conduit that shallow? Not allowed here, in or out of conduit.

Sheldon 

    

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Posted by 7j43k on Friday, December 21, 2018 6:36 PM

I prefer to install main disconnects (in single family buildings) on the outside.  

 

One reason is for the fire department, which can be stymied by the concept of pulling a meter out (which does, admittedly, leave two energized meter jaws exposed during a rather frantic time).  

 

The other is that the serving utility in this area will require rigid steel conduit up to the main breaker, wherever it is.  Their view seems to be that the conductors are much more dangerous before the main breaker than after it.

As an example, I repaired a job where one of the lads ran a jack hammer bit through the underground service conduit.  Since there was no real circuit breaker, the fault was cleared by vaporizing some rather large copper wire and the bit.

 

Ed

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Friday, December 21, 2018 6:25 PM

Agreed, I don't begin to understand the location choices in this case?

Sheldon

    

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Posted by 7j43k on Friday, December 21, 2018 6:20 PM

Onewolf
The main power feed cutoff/breaker box was failed because the main breaker handle was 6'7.5" above the ground and the building code limit was 6'7".
 

 

2017 (and earlier) NEC:  404.8 (A)

"Location.  All switches and circuit breakers used as switches shall be located so that they may be operated from a readily accessible place.  They shall be installed such that the center of the grip of the operating handle of the switch or circuit breaker, when in its highest position, is not more than 2.0 m (6 ft 7 in.) above the floor or working platform."

 

I am inclined to think that the original height, when the roadway was 8" higher, was still too high.  It would have been legal, but I would never had installed one at that height UNLESS there was an incredible pressing need.

 

Ed

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Posted by hon30critter on Friday, December 21, 2018 4:32 PM

Onewolf
The bathroom utility sink was cited as a drowning hazard?

I guess the inspector's hemorrhoids were acting up that day! He was certainly focused on behaving like one!Laugh

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Friday, December 21, 2018 3:43 PM

Onewolf

 

 
ATLANTIC CENTRAL

Is this main switch outside? Why? There is no NEC requirement for that? Or are we talking about a meter can?

But in 40 years of electrical work as an electrician, job foreman, project manager, I have never had such an unreasonable experiance with an inspector.

The bathroom sink seems equally ridiculous, can't wait to unpack my copy of the IRC and look that up.

As an electrician, carpenter and building designer, I'm not a fan of exterior building finishes going "around" electrical boxes, but then again we don't do much stucco in these parts........

Much prefer electrical boxes/meter cans to mounted on the final siding, or on AZEK backer boards in the case of vinyl siding (which we also don't generally do much of). Most of the buildings we work on have real wood siding, cement board siding, or are brick.

Sheldon

 

Main breaker is outside next to the meter. We have seperate meters for house and DG.

We discussed 'raising' the ground under the breaker box but we decided that would be an ugly hack of a 'fix'.

The bathroom utility sink was cited as a drowning hazard?

 

OK, but main breaker does not have to be outside, it can be in the main panel, unless the panel is very far from where the service cable enters the building. But I have seen lots of exceptions granted for that as well.

Still seems pretty petty over 1/2".........

Drowning hazard, welcome to the nanny state - common sense has been outlawed by the socialists......

I have designed a few buildings like yours for other modelers.

Sheldon

    

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Posted by Onewolf on Friday, December 21, 2018 3:25 PM

ATLANTIC CENTRAL

Is this main switch outside? Why? There is no NEC requirement for that? Or are we talking about a meter can?

But in 40 years of electrical work as an electrician, job foreman, project manager, I have never had such an unreasonable experiance with an inspector.

The bathroom sink seems equally ridiculous, can't wait to unpack my copy of the IRC and look that up.

As an electrician, carpenter and building designer, I'm not a fan of exterior building finishes going "around" electrical boxes, but then again we don't do much stucco in these parts........

Much prefer electrical boxes/meter cans to mounted on the final siding, or on AZEK backer boards in the case of vinyl siding (which we also don't generally do much of). Most of the buildings we work on have real wood siding, cement board siding, or are brick.

Sheldon

Main breaker is outside next to the meter. We have seperate meters for house and DG.

We discussed 'raising' the ground under the breaker box but we decided that would be an ugly hack of a 'fix'.

The bathroom utility sink was cited as a drowning hazard?

Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.

- Photo album of layout construction -

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Friday, December 21, 2018 3:08 PM

Is this main switch outside? Why? There is no NEC requirement for that? Or are we talking about a meter can?

But in 40 years of electrical work as an electrician, job foreman, project manager, I have never had such an unreasonable experiance with an inspector.

The bathroom sink seems equally ridiculous, can't wait to unpack my copy of the IRC and look that up.

As an electrician, carpenter and building designer, I'm not a fan of exterior building finishes going "around" electrical boxes, but then again we don't do much stucco in these parts........

Much prefer electrical boxes/meter cans to mounted on the final siding, or on AZEK backer boards in the case of vinyl siding (which we also don't generally do much of). Most of the buildings we work on have real wood siding, cement board siding, or are brick.

Sheldon

 

    

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Posted by hon30critter on Friday, December 21, 2018 1:43 PM

Onewolf
Regarding county permitting/inspections for our detached garage/workshop, the strangest inspection (and failure) was the drywall screw count.  The 2 most annoying inspection failures were:  #1) Our plumbing final inspection failed because we were not allowed to install a deep basin utility sink in the bathroom  2) The main power feed cutoff/breaker box was failed because the main breaker handle was 6'7.5" above the ground and the building code limit was 6'7".  The box/breaker was mounted higher than allowed because it was installed before our concrete driveway was poured and the GC and I drew what we thought the profile would be for the driveway and then months later the driveway ended up being formed about 8" lower than we had assumed.  There was not enough slack in the 200amp power line between the cut-off breaker box and the interior breaker box so they had to run a new (and expensive) line. And they had to redo/patchpaint the stucco wall where they lowered the main breaker box.  Oy.

"Oy" is right!AngryBang HeadGrumpy

 

No tolerence for errors. Too easy to get sued.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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Posted by rrebell on Friday, December 21, 2018 1:15 PM

Just got to ask, why not just change the ground height 1/2". Out here in most places, under $500 dose not need a permit, also only permit value added to assesment. Did a $125,000 add on but my cost was $25,000 so increse was for the $25,000 or $250 a year.

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Posted by Onewolf on Friday, December 21, 2018 11:57 AM

Regarding county permitting/inspections for our detached garage/workshop, the strangest inspection (and failure) was the drywall screw count.  The 2 most annoying inspection failures were:  #1) Our plumbing final inspection failed because we were not allowed to install a deep basin utility sink in the bathroom  2) The main power feed cutoff/breaker box was failed because the main breaker handle was 6'7.5" above the ground and the building code limit was 6'7".  The box/breaker was mounted higher than allowed because it was installed before our concrete driveway was poured and the GC and I drew what we thought the profile would be for the driveway and then months later the driveway ended up being formed about 8" lower than we had assumed.  There was not enough slack in the 200amp power line between the cut-off breaker box and the interior breaker box so they had to run a new (and expensive) line. And they had to redo/patchpaint the stucco wall where they lowered the main breaker box.  Oy.

Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.

- Photo album of layout construction -

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Friday, December 21, 2018 11:26 AM

Technically, the laws here say the same things, but they don't have the record keeping or the manpower to inforce it, so, unless you gut and remodel the whole house, minor interior renovations, club basements, etc, all get done without permits, by contractors or homeowners.

You own a house built in 1960. There are no acurate records of when or if the basement was finished or not. They can't come inside to do your tax appraisal. Your real estate agent will list it for sale with whatever features are present. Who can challenge you?

I restored my 1901 Queene Anne in 1996-1998. We got permits for the new garage, reconstructing the missing turret, putting a pool, upgrading the electrical main service. The rest was considered repairs and was exempt from permits.

In 2015 we did a whole house restoration for a client on 1905 foursquare. We needed electrical, plumbing and HVAC permits, but only needed a building permit for one smsll area of structural work. Rest was considered repairs, including the complete rebuild of 900 sq ft of porch.

We had the full cooperation of the town and county who see historic presevation as an asset to the community.

The restoration of both houses were exempt from stuff like 36" high porch railings, stairway widths or risers on back stairs, etc.

Sheldon

    

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Posted by Pruitt on Friday, December 21, 2018 10:12 AM

Doughless

 ATLANTIC CENTRAL

 A permit for a basement trim out? Wow, nobody around here does that and the local government has niether the time or resources to care. 

Here in suburbia, where I think Jim also resides, you have to get a permit to convert studded unfinished space into finished drywall space, as the local government assumes it will now be living space.  ...

Yes, an inspection is required prior to drywall to make sure the work is done up to professional sandards, but the homeowner can do it themselves if they have the skill/knowledge.

I was doing some electrical upgrade work at my home in NJ and looked at the local electrical codes. It was written in such terms that, if the municipality wanted, they could fine you for not getting a permit to change the wattage of a light bulb in a fixture (not kidding)! When I asked about it, I was told that is pretty typical.

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Posted by Doughless on Friday, December 21, 2018 9:56 AM

ATLANTIC CENTRAL

 

 
 

 

A permit for a basement trim out? Wow, nobody around here does that and the local government has niether the time or resources to care.

 

Here in suburbia, where I think Jim also resides, you have to get a permit to convert studded unfinished space into finished drywall space, as the local government assumes it will now be living space.  In my old suburban locale, once you decided to convert the basement to living space, you HAD to install an outlet a minimum of every 12 linear feet of finished wall as to prevent the use of extension cords everywhere. 

Yes, an inspection is required prior to drywall to make sure the work is done up to professional sandards, but the homeowner can do it themselves if they have the skill/knowledge.

Getting the permit also allows real estate sales agents to officially increase the square footage of the house, whereas its generally illegal to include unpermitted space in the listing's square footage.  It generally goes by tax records.

Of course, the permit allows the government to know you've just increased the square footage, increased the value,  which provides a reason to increase your real estate taxes.  So there's that angle.  And around my particular area of yuppyville, quite a few people skip the permit process and finish their basements themselves to avoid the increase in assessed value a permit would reveal.

- Douglas

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Friday, December 21, 2018 9:14 AM

riogrande5761

Welcome back Onewolf.  Was a bit worried.

I've been at a stand still on layout building after moving house and having to focus on it and a new job during this year.  I finally got a permit pulled and the wall outlets are in and other things, rough-in inspection passed and started drywalling last weekend.  Wife in an accident so having to hunt down a replacement car.

In the mean time I've decided to choose Peco electrofrog turnouts for the new layout, code 100 large in staging and code 83 #6 visible.  I was surprised when I bought some and compared the frogs and lengths.  Here is a comparison of the two Peco's along side Atlas and Shinohara #6 and #8

 

A permit for a basement trim out? Wow, nobody around here does that and the local government has niether the time or resources to care.

Maybe things are not that bad here in the peoples republic of Maryland after all. No matter, I'm here to stay now, bought the retirement house and planning the new layout. As a retired electrician, I will handle my needs without any "help".

The PECO 83 line is very nice, but I just can't bring myself to spend more for something that I have to modify for my special needs. 

I also will not use the Atlas "super switch" like you show in the photo, I much prefer the Custom Line version with its short diverging route.

Onewolf, good to have you back, I kept telling folks not to think the worst.

Sheldon

 

    

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Posted by riogrande5761 on Thursday, December 20, 2018 4:38 PM

Welcome back Onewolf.  Was a bit worried.

I've been at a stand still on layout building after moving house and having to focus on it and a new job during this year.  I finally got a permit pulled and the wall outlets are in and other things, rough-in inspection passed and started drywalling last weekend.  Wife in an accident so having to hunt down a replacement car.

In the mean time I've decided to choose Peco electrofrog turnouts for the new layout, code 100 large in staging and code 83 #6 visible.  I was surprised when I bought some and compared the frogs and lengths.  Here is a comparison of the two Peco's along side Atlas and Shinohara #6 and #8

Rio Grande.  The Action Road  - Focus 1977-1983

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Posted by rrebell on Thursday, December 20, 2018 10:49 AM

Onewolf

it's alive....

 

I'm getting back to work on the layout after a prolonged sabatical.  Back in May/June I was spending 100% of my time preparing for new job interviews and interviewing.  I started my now job in early July and I found that I needed to focus completely on the new job while I came up to speed on completely new domain (DOD modeling and simulation) and technical/development stacks. But now I'm ready to get back to work on the railroad.  All the live long day.  Or at least an hour or two per day. :)

 

I know you got busy, but a fast chirp on here, like new job be back later, would have been welcome. You must have known you have a following here, more so than most. Good Luck with new job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Posted by rtrowbridge on Thursday, December 20, 2018 10:19 AM

That's a very interesting job. One of my old managers was in the Utah Air National Guard. His job was to go sit in the big radar dome above Hill AFB and monitor the jets as they trained in the test range in Utah's West desert.

So good luck with the new job and I'll go back to lurker mode watching for new layout updates. I live along the Ogden subdivision in Cache Valley, so I'm curious to see how this all turns out.

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Posted by Onewolf on Thursday, December 20, 2018 10:11 AM
The 'modeling' is in the area of target acquisition, weapon/munition accuracy, and munition/target vulnerability. And then using those models in engagement simulations.

Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.

- Photo album of layout construction -

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 4 posts
Posted by rtrowbridge on Thursday, December 20, 2018 9:32 AM
This is great news! Congratulations on the new job. It sounds very interesting. Are you doing CAD type modeling or simulations/projections? If CAD, you should 3D print some of your creations and sneak them into the layout somewhere. Hill AFB and Defense Depot Ogden are there to play with. Looking forward to seeing your progress as you go forward.
  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: East Central Florida
  • 480 posts
Posted by Onewolf on Thursday, December 20, 2018 8:19 AM

it's alive....

 

I'm getting back to work on the layout after a prolonged sabatical.  Back in May/June I was spending 100% of my time preparing for new job interviews and interviewing.  I started my now job in early July and I found that I needed to focus completely on the new job while I came up to speed on completely new domain (DOD modeling and simulation) and technical/development stacks. But now I'm ready to get back to work on the railroad.  All the live long day.  Or at least an hour or two per day. :)

Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.

- Photo album of layout construction -

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 7,030 posts
Posted by rrebell on Sunday, December 2, 2018 11:04 PM

No if you read the thread you will find someone tried to contact him personally, nothing, even in his neigborhood.

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