The LK&O Railroad

[lifeontheranch]

Compound grade helix anyone?

There is still a lot to be done yet. Trim the uprights to length, wire the track, and I'm goint to install an IR "where's my train" tracking system into it. Legs will be added when it is put into place on the layout.

Multi-part helix build starts here http://www.lkorailroad.com/south-helix-part-i/

[hon30critter]

Hi Alan,

I love how neatly organized the underside of your layout is! The bus wire arrangements are outstanding.

All your work is very professional! You have given me some great ideas.

Thanks,

Dave

[PennsyLou]

Wow - way cool, thanks!

[lifeontheranch]

To get a full understanding of the construction method it is simplest to read my blog. It has all the gory how and why details.

LKO blog

Otherwise, think of it as cookie-cutter subroadbed that lifts off of the benchwork. Benchwork is permanently mounted (relatively) to the wall. Cookie-cutter has glued on risers that sit on benchwork crossmembers. A flange secures riser to crossmember and insures proper alignment. Remove screws, lift off.

Module lengths are dictated by the track plan. Module joints are under clear track and arranged as a lap joint.

Each track module is completely self-contained electrically and mechanically. As if each track module is its own standalone shelf layout.

The only external electrical connections are to the power buses (barrier strips) and fascia control panels (JST connectors) both of which are easily disconnected.

The cookie-cutter is the layout. It just happens to sit on benchwork.

Hope that helps.

[PennsyLou]

Alan, can you expand perhaps a little on the "self contained track module" concept?  How big are the modules?  How are the modules held in place while still facilitating removal for work, and to ensure perfect re-allignment when the modules are put back in place?  I assume some sort of plug connectors are used for the electrical and DCC buses?  This looks like a great idea to avoid having to work under the layout.  

Thanks!

[lifeontheranch]

Thanks for the compliments guys.

Gravity holds my Tortoises in place while screws are inserted. The track modules are self-contained and removable so all work is done while they lay upside down on the workbench. So much better than crawling under a layout.

[wickman]

Alan your work is top notch. When I was mounting tortoise switch machines before I would use stick on Velcro to hold it in place to put screws, just tonight after realizing reusing the tortoise switches and cutting the wire that Velcro wasn't going to work, 3m tape works great. 

[PennsyLou]

Really great, meticulous work!  I will soon be tearing down the old railroad for a move and rebuild in a new home, I will study at your progress as an example to strive for!   

[lifeontheranch]

Added brakes on the hill. Now I can setout cars without them rolling away.

Details: http://www.lkorailroad.com/brakes-on-the-hill/

[lifeontheranch]

hon30critter

 

 

lifeontheranch

We have working fascia panels!

 

 

Hi Alan,

Glad to see that you have resumed posting.

I have just re-read all of your posts on how you made the control panels. I have to make four panels for my new layout. Your very detailed posts have provided me with a wealth of information on how to make my panels look as professional as yours do.

Thanks,

Dave

 

Glad to have helped.

[lifeontheranch]

carl425

carl425 wrote the following post 10 hours ago: Those panels remind me of these:

Oops sorry, forgot the add quote button.

[lifeontheranch]

You nailed it!!! Exactly where my inspiration came from.

One of my other interests is 80's stereo equipment. I was never wealthy enough to own McIntosh equipment but I do have a full Nikko rack. 880 watts of pure ultra low distorion joy.

[hon30critter]

lifeontheranch

We have working fascia panels!

Hi Alan,

Glad to see that you have resumed posting.

I have just re-read all of your posts on how you made the control panels. I have to make four panels for my new layout. Your very detailed posts have provided me with a wealth of information on how to make my panels look as professional as yours do.

Thanks,

Dave

[carl425]

Those panels remind me of these:

[BigDaddy]

Nice looking panels!

[lifeontheranch]

We have working fascia panels! Well, a couple of them so far.

Build detail at http://www.lkorailroad.com/panel-wiring-part-i/

[Water Level Route]

Good to see progress again Alan.  Keep us posted.

[lifeontheranch]

It has been a very long time since I posted progress on my layout. Life gets in the way sometimes. But finally I am back in the train room. Fascia finished and panels mounted. Panel connector wiring next task.

http://www.lkorailroad.com/fascia-finished/

[Yannis]

Top quality work Alan! Thanks for posting!

[hon30critter]

Impressive!

Dave

[lifeontheranch]

Panels finished. Next up is getting them fascia mounted and wired to the track modules.

http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-xi/

[mbinsewi]

OK, thanks Alan.

Mike

[lifeontheranch]

You clicked on a "category". The page is a list of all posts that are tagged Basement Preparation. Click on any of the titles listed to see the full post.

Alternately, in the right pane below Categories is a list of all individual posts. They are listed in reverse chronological order.

[mbinsewi]

Excellent work, Alan.  I've visited your web site in the past, but just now I looked again, and clicked on "Basement Preperation", and the page was empty, except for some text.  Same with any of the pages I clicked on.

Do I need to be a subscriber in order to see the content?

Mike.

[lifeontheranch]

Making progress. 9 of 16 finished.

http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-x/

[hon30critter]

lifeontheranch

I made the circuit boards. Described midway in this post: http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-vii/

Excellent work, and a lot of it!

Thanks,

Dave

[lifeontheranch]

rrinker

 ... the reversed biased LED would see no more than the forward voltage of the forward biased one, so like 2.5 volts...

 

Except if one LED fails. Plus, I had to put in a jumper on the board anyway. The diode is a jumper with an added feature. 1N4148 cost less than 1/2 cent each.

rrinker

... in series with the Tortoise motor ...

 

Some turnouts can be controlled from multiple panels. The number of LEDs for any given turnout varies. Resistor values would need calculated on a case-by-case basis to maintain uniform brightness between one, two, or more indicators. Changing out resistors would be required if a panel change occurred or another panel added. My panel wiring arrangement maintains uniform LED brightness regardless of how many panels an individual turnout may appear on.

rrinker

...plus the light changes before the Tortoise even moves. Series witht he motor, the light would change immediately to the new indication, but dimly, until the Tortoise completed movement.

 

Yes, the panel indicators change immediately. Although I don't understand the importance of movement and indication timing. There are illuminated switch stands that indicate direction and completed throw. They are series wired with the Tortoise motor since there is only one switch stand per turnout.

[rrinker]

 Two individual LEDs back to back is the same as the bicolor LED, the reversed biased LED would see no more than the forward voltage of the forward biased one, so like 2.5 volts. They could still have individual resistors to equalize the brightness.

 Frankly I'd just put them in series with the Tortoise motor unless using the Tortoise contacts to control them, that way there is a positive indication that the Tortoise has moved. Paralleling the Tortoise means added current through the flip-flop, plus the light changes before the Tortoise even moves. Series witht he motor, the light would change immediately to the new indication, but dimly, until the Tortoise completed movement.

                      --Randy

 

[lifeontheranch]

Changed the thread title since the content has veered far from the original.