Compound grade helix anyone?
There is still a lot to be done yet. Trim the uprights to length, wire the track, and I'm goint to install an IR "where's my train" tracking system into it. Legs will be added when it is put into place on the layout.
Multi-part helix build starts here http://www.lkorailroad.com/south-helix-part-i/
Alan
Freelancing the LK&O Railroad
Hi Alan,
I love how neatly organized the underside of your layout is! The bus wire arrangements are outstanding.
All your work is very professional! You have given me some great ideas.
Thanks,
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
To get a full understanding of the construction method it is simplest to read my blog. It has all the gory how and why details.
LKO blog
Otherwise, think of it as cookie-cutter subroadbed that lifts off of the benchwork. Benchwork is permanently mounted (relatively) to the wall. Cookie-cutter has glued on risers that sit on benchwork crossmembers. A flange secures riser to crossmember and insures proper alignment. Remove screws, lift off.
Module lengths are dictated by the track plan. Module joints are under clear track and arranged as a lap joint.
Each track module is completely self-contained electrically and mechanically. As if each track module is its own standalone shelf layout.
The only external electrical connections are to the power buses (barrier strips) and fascia control panels (JST connectors) both of which are easily disconnected.
The cookie-cutter is the layout. It just happens to sit on benchwork.
Hope that helps.
Alan, can you expand perhaps a little on the "self contained track module" concept? How big are the modules? How are the modules held in place while still facilitating removal for work, and to ensure perfect re-allignment when the modules are put back in place? I assume some sort of plug connectors are used for the electrical and DCC buses? This looks like a great idea to avoid having to work under the layout.
Thanks!
Thanks for the compliments guys.
Gravity holds my Tortoises in place while screws are inserted. The track modules are self-contained and removable so all work is done while they lay upside down on the workbench. So much better than crawling under a layout.
Alan your work is top notch. When I was mounting tortoise switch machines before I would use stick on Velcro to hold it in place to put screws, just tonight after realizing reusing the tortoise switches and cutting the wire that Velcro wasn't going to work, 3m tape works great.
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
Really great, meticulous work! I will soon be tearing down the old railroad for a move and rebuild in a new home, I will study at your progress as an example to strive for!
Added brakes on the hill. Now I can setout cars without them rolling away.
Details: http://www.lkorailroad.com/brakes-on-the-hill/
hon30critter lifeontheranch We have working fascia panels! Hi Alan, Glad to see that you have resumed posting. I have just re-read all of your posts on how you made the control panels. I have to make four panels for my new layout. Your very detailed posts have provided me with a wealth of information on how to make my panels look as professional as yours do. Thanks, Dave
lifeontheranch We have working fascia panels!
Glad to see that you have resumed posting.
I have just re-read all of your posts on how you made the control panels. I have to make four panels for my new layout. Your very detailed posts have provided me with a wealth of information on how to make my panels look as professional as yours do.
Glad to have helped.
carl425carl425 wrote the following post 10 hours ago: Those panels remind me of these:
Oops sorry, forgot the add quote button.
You nailed it!!! Exactly where my inspiration came from.
One of my other interests is 80's stereo equipment. I was never wealthy enough to own McIntosh equipment but I do have a full Nikko rack. 880 watts of pure ultra low distorion joy.
lifeontheranchWe have working fascia panels!
Those panels remind me of these:
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Nice looking panels!
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
We have working fascia panels! Well, a couple of them so far.
Build detail at http://www.lkorailroad.com/panel-wiring-part-i/
Good to see progress again Alan. Keep us posted.
Mike
It has been a very long time since I posted progress on my layout. Life gets in the way sometimes. But finally I am back in the train room. Fascia finished and panels mounted. Panel connector wiring next task.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/fascia-finished/
Top quality work Alan! Thanks for posting!
Impressive!
Panels finished. Next up is getting them fascia mounted and wired to the track modules.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-xi/
OK, thanks Alan.
My You Tube
You clicked on a "category". The page is a list of all posts that are tagged Basement Preparation. Click on any of the titles listed to see the full post.
Alternately, in the right pane below Categories is a list of all individual posts. They are listed in reverse chronological order.
Excellent work, Alan. I've visited your web site in the past, but just now I looked again, and clicked on "Basement Preperation", and the page was empty, except for some text. Same with any of the pages I clicked on.
Do I need to be a subscriber in order to see the content?
Mike.
Making progress. 9 of 16 finished.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-x/
lifeontheranchI made the circuit boards. Described midway in this post: http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-vii/
Excellent work, and a lot of it!
rrinker ... the reversed biased LED would see no more than the forward voltage of the forward biased one, so like 2.5 volts...
... the reversed biased LED would see no more than the forward voltage of the forward biased one, so like 2.5 volts...
Except if one LED fails. Plus, I had to put in a jumper on the board anyway. The diode is a jumper with an added feature. 1N4148 cost less than 1/2 cent each.
rrinker ... in series with the Tortoise motor ...
... in series with the Tortoise motor ...
Some turnouts can be controlled from multiple panels. The number of LEDs for any given turnout varies. Resistor values would need calculated on a case-by-case basis to maintain uniform brightness between one, two, or more indicators. Changing out resistors would be required if a panel change occurred or another panel added. My panel wiring arrangement maintains uniform LED brightness regardless of how many panels an individual turnout may appear on.
rrinker ...plus the light changes before the Tortoise even moves. Series witht he motor, the light would change immediately to the new indication, but dimly, until the Tortoise completed movement.
...plus the light changes before the Tortoise even moves. Series witht he motor, the light would change immediately to the new indication, but dimly, until the Tortoise completed movement.
Yes, the panel indicators change immediately. Although I don't understand the importance of movement and indication timing. There are illuminated switch stands that indicate direction and completed throw. They are series wired with the Tortoise motor since there is only one switch stand per turnout.
Two individual LEDs back to back is the same as the bicolor LED, the reversed biased LED would see no more than the forward voltage of the forward biased one, so like 2.5 volts. They could still have individual resistors to equalize the brightness.
Frankly I'd just put them in series with the Tortoise motor unless using the Tortoise contacts to control them, that way there is a positive indication that the Tortoise has moved. Paralleling the Tortoise means added current through the flip-flop, plus the light changes before the Tortoise even moves. Series witht he motor, the light would change immediately to the new indication, but dimly, until the Tortoise completed movement.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Changed the thread title since the content has veered far from the original.
rrinker I don't recall seeing a schematic for the panels (checked the 9 parts of Control Panel), but how would they even get reverse biased unless you hooked up the panel backwards? --Randy
I don't recall seeing a schematic for the panels (checked the 9 parts of Control Panel), but how would they even get reverse biased unless you hooked up the panel backwards?
For each turnout there are two LEDs (red & green or yellow & green) that are wired reverse parallel - DIY bi-color arrangement. One LED of each pair is reverse biased at any given time.
The panel LEDs, diodes, and resistors replace the bi-color LED shown in this schematic:
Originally, I put a single LED current limiting resistor on the Tortoise board intending to use bi-color LEDs in the panels. During the time between building Tortoise boards and building control panels I changed to two individual LEDs for each turnout. Additional resistance was added to greatly lower the LED brightness level.
hon30critter So in other words you are protecting the LEDs from reverse polarity instead of just letting them do it on their own? I edited my previous post while you were answering. Where did you get the circuit boards? Dave
So in other words you are protecting the LEDs from reverse polarity instead of just letting them do it on their own?
I edited my previous post while you were answering. Where did you get the circuit boards?
Yes. The LED reverse breakdown voltage is 5 volts. The panels are 12v.
I made the circuit boards. Described midway in this post: http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-vii/
Hi again Alan:
lifeontheranchThey prevent reverse bias of the LEDs.
They prevent reverse bias of the LEDs.
Hi Alan:
Impressive work!
Question: On the circuit boards that are lined up along the inside bottom of the control panel, I think I am seeing a diode beside each resistor. I'm guessing that the resistors are there to limit the current going to the LEDs, but what purpose do the diodes serve, if indeed they are diodes?
Also, did you make those circuit boards? If not, can you tell us your source?
Thanks
Control panel work continues. Got the first two finished. Lots of soldering on the inside.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-ix/
hon30critter When you cut them in half they flowed right back together! Yuk! Talk about stomach ache material.
Self-healing pancakes! So, that's where the idea of the puncture-proof tires came from!
Excellent work here, Alan! Thank you for taking the time to share your progress...
Regards, Ed
16 panel enclosures finished.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-viii/
More progress on control panels. Assembling enclosures.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-vii/
Illustrator is primarily for professional users hence the price tag. Generally used in conjunction with the entire Adobe Creative Suite (CS or CC). I believe MRR uses Illustrator for the track plan illustrations. I use Adobe CS in my day job. There are other vector art drawing programs available that would do a fine job on something as simple as a control panel. Inkscape comes to mind. It is free open source.
lifeontheranch Adobe Illustrator
Adobe Illustrator
Ah, that is not a cheap software package - I check and prices seem to range from approx $440 to over a a grand. Not in the budget for some of us.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Making wood enclosures for the control panels:
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-vi/
Holds the LEDs in place. Otherwise they could be accidently pushed out if someone were to place an errant finger on one.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-v/
Made the link clickable.
I may have missed something, but what purpose does the back panel serve? Is it just reinforcement?
Step-by-step build of control panel faces
Really nice work Alan!
By the way, I have never thrown away the first pancake! I would consider myself to be a 'pancake failure' if I had to do that! I do remember some pancakes that I was served in the Enlisted Men's Mess at CFB Trenton when I was an Air Cadet. When you cut them in half they flowed right back together! Yuk! Talk about stomach ache material. Those should have been tossed!
The first pancake is always a throw away, right?
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-iv/
Work continues on the control panels. Resolving engineering challenges one at a time.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-iii/
That really looks awesome!
Michael
The Breitenbach - Rosenheim Railroad V3
Did some testing this evening with LED colors. Turns out the orange LEDs I planned to use for the turntable are not distinct enough from the red to suit my tastes. Changed the turntable LED color to pink (purple pink). Much better LED color contrast to the red LEDs.
Also added additional track power controls to the service tracks.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-ii/
I finished the art for all of the panels on the upper deck. Now to get busy actually building them!
Here is panel 11 of 14:
Gorgeous artwork. Very impressive.
CG
Very nicely done and nice descriptive write up on your web page . Thanks
Making control panels. Yard area panels are designed. Many more yet to go.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/control-panels-part-i/
Thanks Stu.
Indeed, I am living the dream. What a fantatsic hobby!
Fantastic, you are living the dream.
Wow. The kind of workmanship i can only aspire to. Your video gave me the shivers! Bravo!
Stu
Streamlined steam, oh, what a dream!!
Everything is looking good and a very professional finish; some day I hope to have more space so I can attempt something close to that order of magnitude. Cheers.
Golly , I don't know what to say except thank you. I hope the hobby rewards you as much as it does I.
Just came across your site in the past couple of days; needless to say I've barely made a dent in reading it - but I had to come in and comment. What a spectacular layout build-up; I'm not sure I've ever seen a so well-documented planning and construction of a large home layout.
I'll admit I'm biased; your concept of proto-lancing unconnected, but personally significant, railroad elements really hits home with me. I've been trying to figure out how to (believably) do the same in my modeling, with elements of the RDG, PRR, and B&O - if I can do it half as well as you seem to have, I'll be happy.
Tip of the hat to your trackplan too, I really like the meandering single mainline connecting major vignettes/elements, without a hint of spaghetti-bowl. And yet, you've managed to incorporate continuous running and (huge!) staging potential through a very clever partial lower level. I've always sworn off multi-level designs, but reading your planning experiences and looking at the result has me re-evaluating, big time.
Don't know thatt I'll ever have the chance to attempt a pike quite at the scale you're working on, but I'm definitely learning a lot just reading your experiences. Thanks for sharing!
Fascia panels all roughed in. Control panels next.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/fascia-upper-deck-part-ii/
Layout fascia installation has begun.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/fascia-upper-deck-part-i/
1.9kW - one would think I am running GG1s or something!
http://www.lkorailroad.com/know-your-own-power/
A little modification to bring down the heat a bit.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/big-honkin-resistors/
Well worth the wait Alan! Nice video too!
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
First train run on the LK&O. Quite the moment for me.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/first-train-to-traverse-the-upper-deck/
No more noisy power supply fans going on and off. Now just a low whir that I can live with.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/peace-and-quiet/
Module 13 installed and the beginnings of the Potomac River alongside.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/riverbed-for-the-potomac/
Finished module 13. That is the last module on the upper deck.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-13/
Oops, ran out of occupancy detectors while building module 13. Makin' more.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-13-delayed/
One more piece of the puzzle completed.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/connector-8/
Yet another module completed. I'm very close to having all of the track laid on the upper deck.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-12/
Another module finished. My first adventure with superelevated track. Get this - a #8 curved turnout as part of a 40" curve easement into a superelevation easement. Brought back memories from high school geometry class! Made my head hurt.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-11/
Always nice to pop in and see your progress.
The coal mine track module is finished and in place.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-10/
I read through your link with some interest since I just finished building two new turnout control panels for my layout. As usual incredible attention to detail!
I built very similar frames, with the graphics printed and sandwiched between a clear plastic sheet and the backing board like you are planning. Mine turned out pretty nice and I am enjoying the functionality compared to the "temporary" panels that I used since I first put power on some of the tracks. But I used 5mm bi-color LEDs, hobby ply for the backing boards instead of PCB, and ended up with the typical rat's nest of wires behind... looking forward to seeing how yours turns out.
Really enjoy following along with your progress, I just wish you were a step ahead of me instead of behind!
Huntington Junction - Freelance based on the B&O and C&O in coal country before the merger... doing it my way. Now working on phase 3. - Walt
For photos and more: http://www.wkhobbies.com/model-railroad/
During a momentary pause in module building I had the opportunity to design my fascia control panels. I am going to build the prototype to make sure all works as expected before creating artwork for every panel.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/fascia-panel-prototype/
A spot for a coal loadout.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/welcome-to-maryland/
Thank you for the compliment Bob.
I have all the pieces cut to make 100 of the switchstands although I have assembled only 12. Just enough to temporarily install in the yard to make sure I liked how they look and work, which I do BTW. Those have since been removed and stored. I did not assemble more because there is so much layout construction to go before time to install switchstands. I didn't want 100 of them sitting around waiting. Too much risk of damage. They are fragile little creatures.
Noteworthy: the original actuating arm was constructed of 0.010" strip styrene. I discovered that warpage occurred over time. Using brass strip as a replacement.
Alan,
Re;reading some of your posts and comments reminded me of how we built things when I worked at a professional model shop in New York. We (I was in the engineering/design department) would design, draw, check, make changes to the drawings and then issue them to the shop. The shop consisted of many excellent model builders and craftsman and they would build our projects that looked like yours; and that is a well earned compliment. You certainly do show/exhibit excellent design/planning and fabrication skills that are without a doubt the finest in the model railroading hobby. Keep posting your progress so we can all admire your workmanship. Can't wait to see how you do your model structures and settings.
PS: How many of your turnout switch stands (LED) have you built so far? I made 34 of them; although not as 'finished' as yours.
Happy New Year! Built the Lapeer module over the holidays.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-9/
A bit more progress...
http://www.lkorailroad.com/round-the-bend/
You make me blush. Thank you NP
I don't want to repeat every response on this thread. I looked at your site. All I have to say is: OH MY GOD. Craftsmanship and I am sure it reflects who you are and your design and everything you do.
Ok fine I will say more: Steve Jobs quoted his father a number of times: just because no one will see it does not mean it should be shoddy ... You are a personification of that principle.
I am building a 23' X 16' double deck layout (check the Francisquito Valley build thread ... Oh no never mind, don't!) with my two preschoolers right now. It is my second layout, third if you count a short lived 4x8. You make me feel inadequate, but in a good way.
Wow!
NP
The rubber shops switching tracks and ABB interchange tracks are complete.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/connectors-5-6/
More progress. Another module finished.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-6/
Im still following along. Will be interesting to see what you do for the river construction.
Alan:
I just want to say thanks for sharing your excellent switch stand design. The fact that it doesn't rotate makes things a whole lot simpler, and much cheaper too. I need about 25 switch stands for my yard and other areas. I was looking at commercially available operating stands with a bit of trepedation because of the cost and the sensitivity of the mechanisms. You have eliminated those concerns.
P.S.
Your progress is excellent even if you were off for a while. Your workmanship continues to impress! I am very interested in your track modules because I will have to do something similar when building my layout. Better reinforce that river gap though (as if you weren't planning on doing that already).
Made great progress this weekend including prep for a river.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/connector-4/
The mess is (was) in the workshop. That's why I build them outside the train room and then transport them in when finished. Train room stays clean.
I just caught up on your work over the past year. Incredibly well-planned and detailed. But where is all the mess that all (most) of us fight to control? I clean up the layout room every now and then but my workshop seems to stay a total disaster.
Module 5 complete and reinstalled on the benchwork.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-5-complete/
After a long summer of almost no work on the railroad, I am back at it. Module 5 is built, wired, and tested. After replacing the removed ties and a quick shot of camo brown foundation color paint it will be ready for placement back on the layout.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-5-in-progress/
Also made my very first offset Tortoise linkages. They work great and cost almost nothing!
Brittain Yard track work finished.
Complete post: http://www.lkorailroad.com/connectors-1-2-3/
Views from each eand of the yard:
Another module built and installed. The east end of the yard.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/module-4/
Long overdue for a post here on MRR about my layout building progress. A lot has been accomplished. I am actually getting track laid and wired. Have a peek at http://www.lkorailroad.com/
A view from underneath my yard throat area:
And I made my own lighted switchstands: http://www.lkorailroad.com/switchstand-fun/
Alan, I spent the better part of last night reading through your site. I must say, I've never seen better planned nor executed model railroad construction. I want to say workmanship, since you're at the benchwork / subroadbed stage, but I have to use craftmanship to describe it - it's at a level I can only dream about. Makes me want to start over!
If anyone reading this thread has not seen his build website, you owe it to yourself to visit. Just allow some time!
Ed
Quite the compliment. You make me blush. Thanks!
rrinker Bless those who can work in a totally linear fashion. It just bores me to death. After some roadbed was down,. I'd lay some track. Then extend the roadbed, then more track, etc. After some track was down, I'd wire it up and test run over it. Etc. --Randy I'm with you Randy, but this guy's work is above reproach!
Bless those who can work in a totally linear fashion. It just bores me to death. After some roadbed was down,. I'd lay some track. Then extend the roadbed, then more track, etc. After some track was down, I'd wire it up and test run over it. Etc.
I'm with you Randy, but this guy's work is above reproach!
Dean
30 years 1:1 Canadian Pacific.....now switching in HO
Looking forward to your progress.
I for one got a good laugh at your link. I've just been tossing my trackplan printouts when I am done with them, guess I am just insensitive!
I'm impressed with your workmanship!
Sub-roadbed and cork roadbed all finished! I am ready to lay track. Unfortunately, it came time to say goodbye to my old friend.
See the roadbed results and read the eulogy here: http://www.lkorailroad.com/goodbye-to-a-dear-friend/
Bob, that is a very good suggestion. In fact you jogged my memory. I actually did something very similar on a slot car track many years ago to keep flying cars to a minimum. For the slot car track I went to Kinkos and had them run laminate through the machine with no paper inbetween. The result was a flexible, yet not floppy, very tough clear plastic sheet that I cut into strips. Thanks ever so much for reminding me. It is now the new plan.
www.lkorailroad.com/slot_car_track_2010_010.jpg
lifeontheranch 10 Mile Tunnel... or so that is what I am calling my hidden track that connects the north staging helix with the upper deck at Kitzmiller. Finished constructing the sub-roadbed this past week. The full story and many more pictures are here: http://www.lkorailroad.com/10-mile-tunnel/ The hanging end you see is where the north helix will connect once I get it built. In this first picture the track is under scenery. I took the foam out temporarily so you can see the track below. The track is making the final curve before entering the visible layout through a tunnel portal on the opposite side of the backdrop. In this second picture the hidden track will be inside cardboard web mountains. Finally in this picture the hidden track is below the benchwork and will be behind a drape. After I get track laid, hardboard short walls will be put in place on each side to prevent possible plunges to concrete.
10 Mile Tunnel... or so that is what I am calling my hidden track that connects the north staging helix with the upper deck at Kitzmiller. Finished constructing the sub-roadbed this past week. The full story and many more pictures are here: http://www.lkorailroad.com/10-mile-tunnel/ The hanging end you see is where the north helix will connect once I get it built.
In this first picture the track is under scenery. I took the foam out temporarily so you can see the track below. The track is making the final curve before entering the visible layout through a tunnel portal on the opposite side of the backdrop.
In this second picture the hidden track will be inside cardboard web mountains.
Finally in this picture the hidden track is below the benchwork and will be behind a drape. After I get track laid, hardboard short walls will be put in place on each side to prevent possible plunges to concrete.
Alan, nice work and building technique. Like to make a suggestion to those masonite guard rails on the lowered track. The masonite is fine for the backside, however, 1/8" plexi or better yet 1/8" Lexan strips screwed to the subroadbed sides will allow for sighting to see the track for derailment or debris. Makes easier track inspection and cleaning w/o awkward viewing .
This Lexan is used for temp guardrails as scenery progresses, it is set inside the long tunnel, has made track inspection in that dark underside so much easier..
Lexan works far better as it is less likely to crack as will happen w/ Plexiglas (especially in such thin strips).
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Randy, there is a method to the madness and a reason why all roadbed has to be completed before laying track. All of the sub-roadbed is modular-like. It can be removed section at a time and taken to the workbench where I will lay track, install switch machines, wire, etc. Track laying won't actually be done on the layout. If the entire cork roadbed were not in place then there would be great risk of misalignment during track laying.
Keep the progress pics coming. I've pulled a few structures and track off my layout in preparation for an expansion and new track plan.
wow great job after looking at your pictures i feal that my benchwork is lacking something
Cork and glue have been a big part of my life for a while now. Nearing the end of the roadbed installation. I may actually get to lay some track before winter is over!
http://www.lkorailroad.com/cork-roadbed-part-iii/
Ringing in the New Year with cork and pushpins!
"blend seamlessly with the terrain and scenic details"
Yeah, that was a tough one. I tried to think it all the way through during the design phase. While I am not yet at the scenery stage I believe I have solutions that will work in my particular instance. They were incorporated into the basic construction. My solutions by location are: 1) fence and gate on the seam; 2) curb on road; 3) structure wall. I know that is not enough information to visualize the final product and it is yet to be seen if it works out properly but at least that's my plan. The corner angle seams of the benchwork were positioned with these solutions in mind.
Four sheets is not too bad. Lots of carving to come though and I bet you will end up buying more.
Since we are thinking alike I am eager to see how you manage your removeable corner pieces. I have to make two removeable pieces for center access panels and still haven't decided how to do it so that they will blend seamlessly with the terrain and scenic details. Getting started on this is slowly rising on my priority list.
HObbyguy Wow your pics look familiar. 1:1 scale XtrackCad printout on ply subroadbed with 2" pink foam on both sides. You may have 10X the layout area but some of our methods are certainly alike. I bought a pack of carbon paper, slipped it under the printout and quickly transferred the centerline of the track to the ply by tracing with a pen. It was easy and eliminated all questions about where the center of the roadbed and track should be. Of course with your sweeping long curves precision may not be quite the issue that it is for me. Also I found that the "waste" foam came in very handy when I started building the terrain. Curious- how many sheets did you use? As always, great work!
I bought a pack of carbon paper, slipped it under the printout and quickly transferred the centerline of the track to the ply by tracing with a pen. It was easy and eliminated all questions about where the center of the roadbed and track should be. Of course with your sweeping long curves precision may not be quite the issue that it is for me.
Also I found that the "waste" foam came in very handy when I started building the terrain. Curious- how many sheets did you use?
As always, great work!
We are even more alike... carbon paper trace is exactly what I will be doing too!
I used 4 - 4x8 sheets total with a little left over. I still have to make 3 triangular corner fill pieces so that will use up the last. Have to build the corner frames first. They are removable for access to the lights in the corners (bulb change, etc.). The arrangement allows me to stand up behind the benchwork in the corners.
"what do you do for a living?"
Thanks for the compliment Bob. I work as Marketing Communications Mgr for a large chemical company. While I would like to take credit for the web site design it is not mine. It is actually a free WordPress theme. Glad you like it. As for all other graphics used on my site, yes I consider myself an accomplished Abobe CS user.
lifeontheranch Finished installing all of the base 2" foam on the layout.
Finished installing all of the base 2" foam on the layout.
Wow your pics look familiar. 1:1 scale XtrackCad printout on ply subroadbed with 2" pink foam on both sides. You may have 10X the layout area but some of our methods are certainly alike.
Your website and graphics abilities are fantastic; what do you do for a living? Your layout design and execution are also fantastic. I can't wait to see how you follow this up with structures and scenery. I love your Tortise turnout controls; wish I had seen this before I built mine. Keep up the 'reporting' end of your journey.
Finished installing all of the base 2" foam on the layout. http://www.lkorailroad.com/base-foam-landform-complete/
Next up is spline subroadbed to connect Kitzmiller tunnel to the north helix.
Well that is some jim-dandy news! Very nice of MR to make this service available to non-subscribers. Knowing this, all I can say is disregard my earlier post. Sorry about the waste of electrons.
Carry on.
lifeontheranch Sad to say I have let my subscription to MR expire. Well done magazine but after several years I really had to question the true ROI it was providing to my modeling efforts. I make the assumption my posting here on the forums will be disallowed after my final edition of the magazine arrives next month. While my MR subscription has ended my layout progress has not. For those of you who are interested I invite you to follow along with the latest acomplishments at www.lkorailroad.com Live long and prosper.
Sad to say I have let my subscription to MR expire. Well done magazine but after several years I really had to question the true ROI it was providing to my modeling efforts. I make the assumption my posting here on the forums will be disallowed after my final edition of the magazine arrives next month.
While my MR subscription has ended my layout progress has not. For those of you who are interested I invite you to follow along with the latest acomplishments at www.lkorailroad.com
Live long and prosper.
You don't have to be a subscriber to take an active part in this forum. You won't be cast aside into the darkness when your subscription expires so keep on posting.
Joe
Allen,
Just because you have dropped your subscription to MR does not mean you can not post to this forum. The only thing you lose without a MR subscription is the 'Subscriber Extra' stuff...
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
lifeontheranchPaper track plan is in place, I am ready to start making sub-roadbed and laying track.
Super room prep and the lighting is awesome. This is obviously not a first rail road for you. Great work!
Dennis
CDN Dennis
Modeling the HO scale something or other RR in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies Alberta, Canada
I must say the video was rather interesting. I used a board full of DS64's for my tortoise machines. I can power 4 tortoises per ds64, but I do it through the hand controller but I must say I like your idea.
Now that I am about to begin track laying it was time to move my Tortoise control system from bench test to production model. Going to need quite a few of these over the winter during track laying.
watch?v=1v5H84xmlpM&feature=youtu.be
Alan I'm doing the same only I started about 10 years ago. When your finally ready to retire be ready to by a good pair of bi focals.
That is a nice compliment. Thank you.
Yeah, not in a big rush here. Essentially just getting my retirement hobby queued up. Trying to get the heavy lifting done now so I can enjoy retirement building scenery and playing with trains just like I did when I was a kid :)
Your work looks superb. I\ve always envied someone that could take there time building the layout and really think things through. I'm quite familiar with the xtracad software and the ability to print the plan 1:1, brings things into prospective.
Finished all of the sub-roadbed on the upper deck. Very happy with the way it worked out. Even managed to incorporate curve compensated grades on the climb out of the Potomac River valley.
Going to install the pink foam next before I lay cork roadbed. It will be easy to lay in place the foam sheet and mark it for cutting while the sub-roadbed is still flat. I'll clamp a temporary fascia in place so I can get the foam cut correctly for the curves of the fascia.
http://www.lkorailroad.com/foam-landscape/
Riser installation step-by-step explained in these posts (or click the right arrow on the blog site):http://www.lkorailroad.com/risers-for-the-flatlands/http://www.lkorailroad.com/placing-risers-begins/http://www.lkorailroad.com/risers-at-halfway-around-point/http://www.lkorailroad.com/flatland-risers-completed/http://www.lkorailroad.com/michigan-connected-to-maryland/http://www.lkorailroad.com/climbing-out-of-the-potomac-river-valley/http://www.lkorailroad.com/sub-roadbed-around-brittain/
Finally have some sub-roadbed up on risers. Progress is slow during summer.
More pics and detail at: http://www.lkorailroad.com/placing-risers-begins/
Randy, the areas not occupied by roadbed will be pink foam to allow for scenery contour above and below the zero elevation. The roadbed is all at the same elevation but the landform around it is not. Hence roadbed on risers.
Call me silly, but if that large an area would have all been the same elevation, I would have just made the baseline height of the benchwork that height and not had to make ANY risers for that large area at all. Since the tight construction of the benchwork made it all nice and level... And there's nothign in doing so that would not allow for other areas to be either higher or lower as needed for the geography.
Mass producing risers: http://www.lkorailroad.com/risers-for-the-flatlands/
Good for you. And I say that as someone who has spent the week watching YouTube videos of painting clouds, trees, and rocks. And has spent a small fortune on tubes of acrylic, brushes, and other paraphernalia in the vain hope that this will somehow improve the result.
For better or worse I am going with plain ole blue sky. I do not have the artistic ability to paint a convincing backdrop, have yet to see a photo backdrop that looks totally right (maybe just in my eyes) especially considering I have over 100' of contiguous backdrop, and don't care for painted on clouds.
There is of course no way anyone could know at this point because it exists only in my mind, but the urban areas will be dense buildings, vast majority of which will extend above the sight line at the backdrop. The mountainous areas similar in that the hills at the backdrop rise above the sight line in many places. Yes, there will be areas here and there where blue sky will be visible close to the horizon line but, as I see it, this is the lesser of the 3 evils.
As Mr. Eastwood said... A man's got to know his limitations.
I'd hate to slow your progress toward actually, you know, running trains, but I see you leaning over all that trackwork with a paintbrush and palette, snagging points on your clothes and dripping acrylics onto ties and more. You may be going with just a sky, or you'll be gluing on a fabulous photo panorama, or maybe you're tall and competent. But I thought I'd raise the question. It looks great anyhow.
Made good headway cutting and placing sub-roadbed over the long 4th of July weekend. Using the 1:1 XTrkCAD track plan print as a template is working well. There is a post on my blog if you are interested in the nitty-gritty details: http://www.lkorailroad.com/sub-roadbed-progress-update/
The yard and sidings are designed for 16-50' car 2-1st gen diesel loco trains. Does that qualify as long trains?
There are a few places left open for industries not yet in the plan. I figure it will take me long enough to get the initial industries built. Somewhere down the road I can add more if desired.
Nice plan, I an asuming you intend to run long trains. Not enough switching for my tastes but there is nothing I found wrong with it.