Hey gang, I'm going to build a small tabletop N scale layout on a 2' x 2' while I wait to set up my 4' x 6'. I know that due to the tiny nature of the board, my space will be limited. I plan on using my xuron rail cutters to shorten a turnout so I can have an industry to switch. the track I'm using is code 80, I know that the biggest loco allowed on the board will be an SD40. it's also going to be a test bed for new scenery techniques as well as basic wiring, so I will be atleast partially prepped for my next layout. not sure why my post is taking up the whole page?
feel free o share your N scale micro layouts here or if you aren't an N scaler feel free to share anyways!
SP&S modeler, 1960's give or take a decade or two for some equipment.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SGTDUPREY?feature=guide
Gary DuPrey
N scale model railroader
Good on ya Gary, at least you're aware of the limits you've imposed on yourself, and there's nothing like practice.Have Fun and I'll look forward to the photos.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Hi
A 2x2 does have it's limits, but you are right to start off with a "practice layout" and have some fun while waiting to build something bigger. Practice on it will help you to decide what to do and how to do it on the bigger pike.
I have a 3.5 x 5.1 foot HO layout I tore down to expand slightly {not much room anyway}.
Meanwhile, I have a simple 40 INCH by 40 INCH layout with just a loop of HO and two loops of N {MOH is into N scale and since we have no room for an N anywhere unless i take down my HO, then MOH only get to use this one. It is actually for under the table to Christmas tree,and it typically goes up TG day in November, and stays out to end of January.
Of course, the 2 foot means you Can only us 11.25"r radius curves, and shortening a switch can help as long as the integrity of the switch and angles do not cause operating problems. i can actually run a 2-8-8-4 on that radius, so you might be surprised what can run on it.
Have fun with it!
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
galaxy Hi A 2x2 does have it's limits, but you are right to start off with a "practice layout" and have some fun while waiting to build something bigger. Practice on it will help you to decide what to do and how to do it on the bigger pike. I have a 3.5 x 5.1 foot HO layout I tore down to expand slightly {not much room anyway}. Meanwhile, I have a simple 40 INCH by 40 INCH layout with just a loop of HO and two loops of N {MOH is into N scale and since we have no room for an N anywhere unless i take down my HO, then MOH only get to use this one. It is actually for under the table to Christmas tree,and it typically goes up TG day in November, and stays out to end of January. Of course, the 2 foot means you Can only us 11.25"r radius curves, and shortening a switch can help as long as the integrity of the switch and angles do not cause operating problems. i can actually run a 2-8-8-4 on that radius, so you might be surprised what can run on it. Have fun with it!
Galaxy, that's interesting and thank you for the encouragement. 11.25" R hmmmmm, I, was going to use 9 3/4" R, but if it can be done with 11.25 I'll shoot for it. I believe it was you or Brakie who kept repeating about Perfect trackwork, I was going to try for that(avoiding track nails this time) because my next layout was going to be in C55 and I don't believe as forgiving as C80. a 2-8-8-4 on that holy smokes the biggest steamers I have are 4-8-4's but my 4-8-2 Lt mountain(NP 1256) has a caboose that I customized so that may also widen my options of RP choice.
I'd like to have a small industry with one track maybe two if I can get it to fit and a small loco shed(2 track) so I could have two locos on layout and learn how to do block control/ how to wire it up. I'm thinking Vancouver Wa. as the local so I can have both SP&S & NP, my SP&S RS1 #50(the real one) was based in vancouver, and because #1256 is fictional I could have a thru freight
Thanks bear!
Gary
I erred...I meant 11"r in code 80, 11.25 is c55.
The 11"r will cut it close, but can fit. code 11 will mean about a 23" distance from outside to outside.
9.75"r is OK, but try for the 11"r. You Can easily build a border out of 1x somethings around your edges , which will add to your outer limits to increase clearance. That is how we snuck in a few extra on the 40'x40" {lets face it in HO a 40" square only allows for 18 circle!}
when it comes to attaching the track, and for track work..YES bullet proof track is a MUST. I use latex caulk to "glue down" track. It will not deflect the track much if you spread out the bead with a angled cake decorator. It can also be pried up carefully for reuse if desired.
TEST, retest, and test again your track, And YES avoid track nails at all costs!!! too risky.
Also, I suggest NOT "gluing" the switch, as it will stay in place with the caulk surrounding it, and makes it easy to extract if not working by cutoff disc on the rail joiners. Also do not ballast the switch as nothing is more aggravating than a piece of ballast caught in it!
Have fun with your mini project!
galaxy Gary I erred...I meant 11"r in code 80, 11.25 is c55. The 11"r will cut it close, but can fit. code 11 will mean about a 23" distance from outside to outside. 9.75"r is OK, but try for the 11"r. You Can easily build a border out of 1x somethings around your edges , which will add to your outer limits to increase clearance. That is how we snuck in a few extra on the 40'x40" {lets face it in HO a 40" square only allows for 18 circle!} when it comes to attaching the track, and for track work..YES bullet proof track is a MUST. I use latex caulk to "glue down" track. It will not deflect the track much if you spread out the bead with a angled cake decorator. It can also be pried up carefully for reuse if desired. TEST, retest, and test again your track, And YES avoid track nails at all costs!!! too risky. Also, I suggest NOT "gluing" the switch, as it will stay in place with the caulk surrounding it, and makes it easy to extract if not working by cutoff disc on the rail joiners. Also do not ballast the switch as nothing is more aggravating than a piece of ballast caught in it! Have fun with your mini project!
Hi Burlington Northern#24
I know 2' square is a convenient size but I would suggest you take it up to 2'3" square if you can.
the extra 3" will make a very marked difference on what you can run.
You are going to be pretty much restricted to a single line main but will still be able to fit
a crossing loop a couple of sidings and a small loco depot in the space available
You can also have a small staging yard at the back of the layout under a town.
Its going to be short trains with small loco's.
Build it properly and iron out the bugs and you have the opportunity to use it as the branch line for the
later larger project just a thought.
Even though its a tiny layout run every combination of moves you can think of to make sure you have feeds where they are needed.
I did not on my 4'6" square HO layout and I can't run direct from the fiddle yard to loco because there is a feed that should have gone in to allow that..
I have to come out of the fiddle yard go round the layout to get to loco; because I did not think of that move at the time so did not put in a feed for that move.
It is now too late to put that feed in the layout has advanced to far for track wiring changes.
regards John
Go for it! I got a 3'x3' layout with 2 levels of track.....in G
Have fun with your trains
I will Mr. Smith!(G scale holy smokes that's a pretty tight fit.)
John, if I read your post correctly you want me to build it so that it may be an extra branch onto my 4' x 6'. Unfortunately C80 and C55 are different rail heights. I was also planning to keep the layouts separate, the 2' x 2' was going to be a basic circle with an industry to switch and place cars. I know that my locos and rolling stock will be limited but that's ok because I didn't want anything complex.
Burlington Northern #24 I will Mr. Smith!(G scale holy smokes that's a pretty tight fit.)
Tight? you have no idea!
vsmith Burlington Northern #24 I will Mr. Smith!(G scale holy smokes that's a pretty tight fit.) Tight? you have no idea!
John BusbyI know 2' square is a convenient size but I would suggest you take it up to 2'3" square if you can.
23 inch square seems to be _smaller_ than 2 feet (24 inches) square oops, he said 2'3" square. my mistake
To the original poster, why limit yourself to an arbitrary size? Make it 25" wide .. or 27.35" ... or whatever size will let you do what you want.
Burlington Northern #24Unfortunately C80 and C55 are different rail heights.
Easy to shim and file to make it connect.
Alco fan, I have this board that I bought to originally house the power packs and block selectors but then decided that it'd serve a better purpose as being a practice layout to perfect my track laying, ballasting, and scenery skills. As for the rail heights I know that I can shim them and file the rail heads but I'd rather just keep the two layouts separate.
It's always a good idea to have some kind of layout to work on, just to keep the creative juices flowing and to test new ideas. (Especially to test new ideas. Some work, some don't.)
Some of our Japanese N scale friends have built microlayouts in the 2 x 2 ballpark that are jam-packed with detail, often multi-level (with grades!!!) I don't suggest this, unless your other hobbies are micro-machining and Bonsai.
Matching rail of different heights is no big thing. The prototype does it all the time - sometimes twice in 100 linear feet of 1:1 scale track.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - in Twice-N scale, 1:80)
tomikawaTT It's always a good idea to have some kind of layout to work on, just to keep the creative juices flowing and to test new ideas. (Especially to test new ideas. Some work, some don't.) Some of our Japanese N scale friends have built microlayouts in the 2 x 2 ballpark that are jam-packed with detail, often multi-level (with grades!!!) I don't suggest this, unless your other hobbies are micro-machining and Bonsai. Matching rail of different heights is no big thing. The prototype does it all the time - sometimes twice in 100 linear feet of 1:1 scale track. Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - in Twice-N scale, 1:80)
Burlington Northern #24 I'm going to build a small tabletop N scale layout on a 2' x 2' ... I know that due to the tiny nature of the board, my space will be limited. I plan on using my xuron rail cutters to shorten a turnout so I can have an industry to switch. the track I'm using is code 80, I know that the biggest loco allowed on the board will be an SD40. it's also going to be a test bed for new scenery techniques as well as basic wiring
Here is the best I can do with the amount of space given and using Atlas track. Curves are 9 3/4" radius.
If you can find another 3" for 24"x27" then one can get a second much longer industrial track and operation becomes much more intersting.
Here is an HO 32" x 34" equivalent that I built several years ago. On difference in it is that Atlas made curved turnouts for HO scale. Minimum radius is 15". There is a back story posted about it and its operation here on the forum somewhere on a thread concerning the smallest layout.
Now if you switch to older Bachmann track I believe they make 9" and even 7 3/4" radius curves and also turnouts that had a curved radius departure track to match the 9" curve. Peco makes an N-scale curved turnout but the radii are so large the Atlas normal #4s work better.
If you could squeeze out yet another 3" or 4" then you could get the N-scale equivalent of the one below. It is a pretty cool layout that we (children and I) had hours of fun with.
Burlington Northern #24Alco fan, I have this board that I bought to originally house the power packs and block selectors
Wood is not that expensive. The existing board limits what you can do, save a week or two and buy a larger piece of wood.
Burlington Northern #24 I will Mr. Smith!(G scale holy smokes that's a pretty tight fit.) John, if I read your post correctly you want me to build it so that it may be an extra branch onto my 4' x 6'. Unfortunately C80 and C55 are different rail heights. I was also planning to keep the layouts separate, the 2' x 2' was going to be a basic circle with an industry to switch and place cars. I know that my locos and rolling stock will be limited but that's ok because I didn't want anything complex.
Just thoughts for your consideration as you should be able to get more than just a circle of track and a siding in the allotted space.
Yes the idea was to consider using the small layout as a branch line for the later larger project
It would be a shame to do all that work only have to start from Zero again on the big project.
I can tell you scenery will be a challenge in a small space but well worth the effort, the big advantage you will have is time to think and see just how far you can push the level detail.
hmmm, maybe texas zephyr I have a box of 9 3/4's on hand I'm going to swing by my LHS tomorrow after class to see if they've restocked their track.
Alco, I know but I feel that I'd be much better of just sticking with a simple 2' x 2' I've got wood for my bigger layout but I need to clear out the space that it is going before I can do anything else. I wanted something simple to build, easy to maintain, and something to test on. I understand the one(s) you've suggested are centimeters bigger but I want to keep it as simple as possible with little wood work and other non needed activities.
John, I like the idea but this layout will be mostly for tracklaying, scenic, scratchbuilding, and generally making a scene feel bigger than it really is. because the track will not be nailed down a quick shimming and addition of C55 track linked with the C80 will allow operation in the future.
Rest assured I've read all of your guy's suggestions, and will consider them.
hi gentlemen,
I overlooked the posting of Texas Zepher.
Wish you luck
Paul
alrighty seems that the overall design has had a change, the switch didn't fit. I'm using 11" so I guess that this layout will be about track work, scenery and some scratchbuilding.
I didn't want to discourage you, especially since you said you were going to try chopping the switch, but I didn't think it would fit.
You COULD do a double mainline with the 9-er inside the 11-er
OR put the 9-er over top the 11-er with the 11-er in a tunnel directly underneath the 9-er. {The 11-er will naturally extend out beyond the 9-er loop.}
There would be obvious variants that way. There would be space between the 9-er above and the 11-er below to put something...
Also, you don't HAVE to have a switch..you could have a "disappearing" sideline that "disappears" behind a building that is not connected directly to the oval of 11-er to simulate a siding/industry.
It may not seem like it, but you DO have a realm of all kinds of possibilities!!!
Think and play and experiment!
GOod luck!
galaxyYou COULD do a double mainline with the 9-er inside the 11-er OR put the 9-er over top the 11-er with the 11-er in a tunnel directly underneath the 9-er. {The 11-er will naturally extend out beyond the 9-er loop.}
hmmmmmm, maybe I can't seem to decide upon what I want to do. I wonder if there are curved turnouts that measure out to 11" radius. I'll be back I'm gonna go take a gander, at curved turnout selection.
yeah, hmmmmm well I grabbed a couple extra boxes of 11" and there are some small straights in between maybe I could get an 11" inside of another 11" loop.
I build 2x4 modules and as I get room join them together. That way I do not waste time or materials as much. I have also been finding out that my love for large locomotives is not as practical so I am going to smaller locos and cars. I have found there are some really interesting things about small locos. One of the things I am finding out is how to manage the illusion of distance. The smaller loco kind of give the feel of switching without actually having to do it.
RMax
Burlington Northern #24yeah, hmmmmm well I grabbed a couple extra boxes of 11" and there are some small straights in between maybe I could get an 11" inside of another 11" loop.
Texas Zepher Burlington Northern #24yeah, hmmmmm well I grabbed a couple extra boxes of 11" and there are some small straights in between maybe I could get an 11" inside of another 11" loop. That is a good idea but won't work in a 24"x24" space. Any straight at all will require the equivalent length extension to the space.
Rmax, I like that Idea I was going to try and keep it simple I've got a few small locos to choose from an NW2, RS1, F7, GP15-1, a GP9, and a 2-8-4 for steam