@Steve: Looking great! Good job on Sam's Roadhouse, and Cullen Station. Looks like that sanding added some natural texture to the road surface as well....
Airborne,
Dittos on your Cullen Station as well. It actually took me longer to build that than Sams Roadhouse. It was a lot of work for a small model. As to the sanding on the road, what actually happened is I grabbed a sanding block that I had previously used on Sculptamold so it still had some white powder in it....... and the rest is called "weathering"..
Photos of my "Cullen Station", being used as DB Tower. The photos I have of DB Tower do not show either a shelter add-on, or a loading dock, so I omitted these. I covered up the slots in the wall where the shelter roof fits in with the other station sign, and used the freight door plain to simulate a boarded up door. One window by the main station door I thoroughly botched, so I cut a piece out of the peel and stick fret (already brown colored), and fit it in the window opening to again simulate a boarded up window. After this winter weather clears up, I'll post more photos of the station on the layout, and other progress....
@Bundy: Thanks for the compliments! With that third track I can fit 12-14 hoppers in the mine, depending on the hopper size. I have and use a mix of 55, 70, and 100 ton hoppers
All three look awesome, guys, great work!! I'm thinking of building my own, but my 2nd floor apartment limits the size of what I can build. I'm planning a Thin Branch or Turtle Creek extension build so I can have it when I do get more room.
Airborne, nice job on your mine scene. Adding that 3rd track not only looks great, but it must add much more interest in switching that mine. What's the car capacity with the extra track?
Modeling whatever I can make out of that stash of kits that takes up half my apartment's spare bedroom.
sjhenry A few more photos of progress. I put the road system in first with Arizona Rock and Mineral Sedona Red and have started gradually filling in the rest. I put the road cover on too thick and sanded it down with 150 grit sanding block which had the unforeseen but useful effect of providing some weathering. As per normal the scenery is just the base layer. I have decided to pretty much finish the base layer then come back and detail the whole layout.
A few more photos of progress. I put the road system in first with Arizona Rock and Mineral Sedona Red and have started gradually filling in the rest. I put the road cover on too thick and sanded it down with 150 grit sanding block which had the unforeseen but useful effect of providing some weathering. As per normal the scenery is just the base layer. I have decided to pretty much finish the base layer then come back and detail the whole layout.
Looking Great SJ! That is one sweet little building, keep posting photos of the progress.
Chris,
I am still using the WS ballast. I have only done under my tunnels and have not had any issues yet. That may change after I try to do larger sections. I spray the 70% isopropol alcohol and then used an eyedropper to spread on WS Scenic Cement.
My Layout Pics
One last question for ALL builders in this thread. What is your product of choice for ballast, and have you had any problems or come up with any tricks when you applied it to the layout?
I started out with Woodland Scenics but wasn't very successful with it. I had a lot of problems with washouts. I switched to a combination of Highball HO Grey and Cinders for the ballast and a combination of Highball HO Light Grey and N Black for the roads. My ballasting improved dramatically after that. While some small part of it may have been me, I think a larger part is the ballast. I use the method close to that which Cody shows in his videos with the one exception that I spray the Isopropyl alcohol with a cheap mist sprayer. I have come to the conclusion after reading countless posts that everyone develops their own slightly unique way of laying ballast and sticks to it after they start gaining good results.
Just a note about the retaining walls I used in place of the bridge. I used WS retaining walls (and single concrete tunnel portals), painted with Polly Scale Aged Concrete paint, then weathered with black powders by Bragdon. The retaining walls and three tunnel portals had to be cut to size to fit (as the retaining walls were too high), with a fine tooth razor saw. Be careful however, as these are delicate, and will crack, chip, and break easily. The retaining walls and tunnel portals were all attached with DAP 230 caulk....
You're quite welcome....:)
My choice for ballast was Arizona Rock and Mineral. I used their yard mix, which is a combination of cinders and ash, and their NYC Limestone ballast for the mainline. Not a problem with their product, but I have had a bit of a problem getting back into the swing of things as far as general ballasting, and had some ballast wash out simply due to using too much alcohol and/or glue. This is the first layout, other than a module, that I have built in 44 years....
Hi Airborne,
Thanks for the replies. I realized after I posted my questions that you had posted a portion of the retaining wall in some of your earlier photos, but this latest photo puts it more into perspective. Thanks!
Thanks again for sharing your efforts.
Chris Ballinger
Modeling the Clementon Branch of the Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines in HO scale
@ Chris,
Another photo showing what I did with retaining walls and puffball trees to replace the bridge
Looking good!
If you'll note in this photo, there is a slight kink in the main track at the far end. I had to fit the track around the plywood which was cut just a bit off at this point, to have any kind of ridgeline next to the tracks at this point. This I think actually fits in, as the prototypes sometimes had to curve track like this around obstacles....
Plan to start on the Cullen Station kit today. Photos when finished in the next few days....
Here are some pictures of my scratch built grade crossing and crossbuck. The crossbuck needs some cleanup work. Grade crossings were made of balsa wood and the crossbuck was made from signs taken from internet, pasted to 1/64 " plywood and then glued to toothpick.
Thanks much Roger....:)
As far as the other NCE jack, I'm not sure you can move the PowerCab throttle around, as you would lose power, however, it might work. I just haven't read too far into the NCE manual yet. I do however have a smaller Cab04 throttle budgeted for April for a second operator...
Looking forward to seeing more progress photos soon....!
I have noticed on some of your pictures that you have at least one more jack for your NCE PowerCab system. Have you purchased a second cab or can you unplug the main cab and move it over to the mine side? I realize you will lose power while unplugged but didn't know if this would even work.
Haven't done much on my layout lately other than scratch build some grade crossings and some cross buck signs. I hope to get moving on starting texturing later this month.
Progress looks great on both hour's and the other Steve's layout.
One more photo showing the siding on the branch
thanks for the compliments, they are much appreciated!
I use HunterLine stains as follows: First, I "paint" everything that will later receive paint (I only use Polly Scale water based paints) with HL Lt Cream stain, as it's basically a neutral color. Other portions of the wood kits such as the peel and stick window and door trim, loading docks, foundations, etc, I'll just stain with appropriate color stains after testing on a scrap piece of wood first. I have most of HunterLine's line of stains, from Driftwood color, to green, to barn red, to dark brown. As far as warping, what I do is stain all the walls and other large pieces, then wrap a piece of wax paper over them, and sit something heavy on the wax paper until the parts dry. They will always warp slightly on me, but doing this with the wax paper helps greatly. When I build the walls, I always also use scrap wood to brace the inside walls down the length of whatever building I'm doing. Btw, I always let the stains dry 24 hours. The walls for example on the Blair Line kit were then painted in Polly Scale White.
As far as the siding, you gain a bit more room using a curved turnout, as opposed to the regular right hand turnout after you come off the bridge as MR did. I gained two car lengths depending on what size equipment on the train. MR strictly used 40 foot boxcars and 55 ton hoppers, while I mix 40 footers, 50 ft boxcars, 100 ton and 70 ton hoppers, plus some smaller hoppers. I can fit 1 engine, 6 cars using a mix of these plus a caboose on the siding. See the photos below for a look at the siding and main, plus the answer to not having a bridge.
As far as replacing the bridge, I simply used plaster cloth(2 layers) draped around the curve where the bridge would have sat as a base so to speak for the retaining walls and puffball trees I used in its place. The plaster cloth was then painted a base color of latex earth colored paint, and of course dries rock hard. The plaster cloth was draped from the base of the cork roadbed down to the plywood below on the table. Again, see the photos below....:)
Finally, I have 6 tracks in the yard, using again a mix of longer 50ft equipment, and smaller length equipment, including longer tank cars. I've had no problem as yet with cars derailing, whether backing through the modified turnouts or pulling straight out. I estimate I can fit 3 to 5 longer 50 ft cars in most of the yard tracks.
I'll post a better photo of the full curve and retaining wall sometime tomorrow
Hope this answers everything....:)
Just had a chance to catch up on this thread and was wondering if you could elaborate on a couple of things:
First, I really like the way the Blair Line Feed & Seed came out. You mention Hunter Line Stains as being what you used for the trim, doors, dock etc. Could you go a little more in depth as to the process? Was it applied like traditional stain (apply & wipe) or did you use another method? Were there any signifigant issues using this method (warping etc)?
Second, you mentioned ommiting the deck girder bridge to lengthen the siding at the end of the branch. How much more siding did you gain, and what is the siding capacity with the longer rolling stock? Also, how did you treat the area where the bridge was on the original Virginian?
Third, What are the yard track capacities with the longer rolling stock, and how are the longer cars dealing with the modified Atlas turnouts?
Finally, to ALL of you who are sharing your efforts here I extend my gratitude. The Virginian is one of only 2 MR project layouts I've gotten to see in person, and quite frankly I am fascinated by it. To see the concept of the project being used by others for their own layouts only adds to that fascination!
Well done gentlemen, well done!
sjhenry 304live, It may have been this question I posted back in August. I am still trying to figure out what to do with the bare hill near the tunnel in the photo. I built it too steep to put rocks ( or a rock slide) and its too close to the track to put puff ball trees. The solution was actually quite simple. I painted it grey , dry brushed various colors and highlights and since it was rough sculptamold in the first place, it now looks like blasted rock
304live,
It may have been this question I posted back in August.
I am still trying to figure out what to do with the bare hill near the tunnel in the photo. I built it too steep to put rocks ( or a rock slide) and its too close to the track to put puff ball trees.
The solution was actually quite simple. I painted it grey , dry brushed various colors and highlights and since it was rough sculptamold in the first place, it now looks like blasted rock
I think that would be it... I have been following along with this for a while... after watching the progress I have been thinking of doing this build with some slight modifications as well... my basement (after 2 years now) is almost train ready... you guys are doing a great job and its very inspiring to watch you do this!
If I had the money, I would be building instead of spectating. If and when I do, I will share my progress with all of you. Thank you for those who have been sharing their progress and insights into this project. Regarding the lack of Virginia equipment out there, I would venture to guess that it's attributed to the fact that the Virginian was small and didn't hang around too long. There are Microscale decals for the Virginian steam loco's I believe. I might just buy an undecorated Consolidation from Bachmann and put steam decals on that. I would also buy the Bachmann diesels like MR did, and install decoders that they discussed in a past article. I really like the Thin Branch that's talked about on MR video plus previews. I can't wait to see how MR built the Thin Branch. Take care,
Chris Fielding
airborne101 I'm a bit surprised in this thread that there are only 149 posts out of almost 23,000 views.....:) Also, I'm curious about something here, and that is, do you guys at MR look at these forums often, or rarely, or? Just curious!
I'm a bit surprised in this thread that there are only 149 posts out of almost 23,000 views.....:)
Also, I'm curious about something here, and that is, do you guys at MR look at these forums often, or rarely, or? Just curious!
I'm also one of those following along and watching with great interest. Great job so far by everyone building the Virginia. Keep us lurkers posted on your progress.
Derek
David, to answer the question above, I did use Peco, Walther's and Atlas snap switches, along with Atlas flex track, ME flex track, and in a couple of places I used Atlas curved snap track as well. I felt by doing this on the curves I could also keep the curves inline better so to speak, and make them more rigid if that makes sense. It also helped guide me to line up the curved flex track to mate with it, even though of course I had my centerlines down....
John, you're absolutely correct. I'm also surprised at the lack of Virginian anything: locomotives, cabooses, or rolling stock...
David, I used the same Atlas snap switches for the yard as MR did. I had to use these to get all 6 tracks in. They were modified exactly as MR did in the articles. I did change other switches however. Instead of using those two code 100 switches for the connection off the yard between the branch and main, I only used one code 100 switch, and used a different Peco turnout at the yard side of the connection, as it lined up better and fit better. I did use one Peco code 100 switch up top on the branch however, where MR has their steel bridge, I did away with the bridge, and put the code 100 turnout on the curve, so as to have more siding space. We used the soldering method that MR did for the code 100 to code 83 track coming off the yard, however, we simply used the transition rail joiners and they worked fine, and were alot easier. For most of the track I used Micro Engineering weathered flex track for all of the straight sections, and some of the curves. Atlas code 83 flex track made up the difference on the rest of the curves, as it is easier to bend and work with. I found however that even the ME flex track used with the steel curved radius track guides by RibbonRail worked well, as long as you only tried to do a section the length of the guide. After laying, I really didn't like the look of the weathered track however, as to me it looked too dark, so all the track was sprayed with a mix of roof brown and a touch of black, and I think it looks dead on. Another change I made was adding the siding on the back side of the layout where MR has the Cullen station and the "moonshine bar". I like to switch, so I wanted another industry there, so added the Blair Line Greene's Feed and Seed there instead. My Cullen Station by AMB is being used on the right front corner of the layout where the track branches off to staging to simulate "DB Tower", a block station 17 miles south of Dickinson yard (West Virginia), where the Virginian actually connected with the old NYC, and was the westermost end of the Virginian. As I model NYC/PC in the 60's-70's, I can model Virginian power or N&W power coming off the connection. The other change I made was I decided to build the Walther's New River Mine kit as is, minus that huge monstrosity of a waste bin that comes with it, and I put three tracks into the mine, as I felt a coal branch should have mines (and one large one) as the focal point.
Hi Airborne101
I might not be saying much but I am watching with great interest.
This is the first chance I have really had to watch one of the project layouts go together built by model railroaders rather than read in MRR as the staff build it.
I must say I am impressed with everybody's efforts and find the slightly different versions of interest..
Its not unusual for there to be more watchers than participants in a forum thread.
The thread my own current tiny empire on another forum has 30708 views and 421 posts. so I would not worry about the views verses posts figures.
I think the fact that people are taking an interest in my humble efforts is some what wondrous considering layouts don't get much more basic than mine one engine in steam no DCC the Light Railway imagery UK run down effort built to the light railways act of Parliament.. Hardly a big time railroad like the VIRGINIAN was.
I am more puzzled by what appears to be a lack of Virginian stock given it seems to be an ideal model railroad project
regards John
Airborne, great job, I always follow the progress.
May I ask, did you use all the track as specified in the MR build or did you make any changes as far as track or switches? What I mean is , I believe MR used three or four differant brands of track, four differant brands of switches.
David