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Wearthing Tips on Black engines, maily steam.

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  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
  • 9,577 posts
Wearthing Tips on Black engines, maily steam.
Posted by cudaken on Friday, June 15, 2007 11:28 PM

 I am still using chalk and I am starting like the looks of my cars. Not great but better.

 I use a lot of back, then gray and rust looking bronw chalk. Black will not show up on a back steam engine. Any tips with PIC?

 

             Cuda Ken

I hate Rust

  • Member since
    April 2006
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Posted by fifedog on Saturday, June 16, 2007 8:47 AM
GRIMEY BLACK--->thinned down--->airbrush 20 psi--->in moderation.Thumbs Up [tup]
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Posted by ndbprr on Saturday, June 16, 2007 8:47 AM
No pics but I use primarily three colors of Floquil paint on my engines.  I airbrush graphite from a fairly long distance straight down on the top of the engine and tender.  The distance is important so the paint has a little tooth and is a little rougher than normal.  This replicates the cinder fallout from the stack.  On the running gear I will highlight the wheels primarily with Dust to lighten everything and so it can be seen better.  I also use this on the sides of the tender passing down the side at about the height of the bottom of the tender.  This also gets the tender trucks. Finaly I airbursh Antique white very lighty around the ashpan area.  I come back immediately with a brush with a little solvent on it and steak it vertically.  Works for me!
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Saturday, June 16, 2007 10:15 AM

When in doubt work from the prototype:

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: San Diego
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Posted by stokesda on Saturday, June 16, 2007 12:39 PM
There was a good article in (I think) RMC within the last year or so about how to weather a steam locomotive. If you have the magazines, flip through them to find it. I don't have access to mine right now, so I can't pinpoint it for you. As best as I can tell from looking through the back issues on their website, maybe September 2006?

Dan Stokes

My other car is a tunnel motor

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
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Posted by cudaken on Saturday, June 16, 2007 11:32 PM

 Orsonroy, thanks for the PIC I have saved them and around say 70 others.

 My first project will be a broken Tyco. I am shooting for some thing like this.

 

 

 It will be on a abaonded (spell check) spur and over growen. I bought some stuff of E-bay that is a liqued (spell check again) that will make it look like rust. Seller stated it will rust paper!

 Well time to lay some rails!

 

                   Cuda Ken 

I hate Rust

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Fountain Valley, Ca.
  • 763 posts
Posted by Bob grech on Sunday, June 17, 2007 12:39 AM

This Locomotive was painted using Floquil's Grimmy black. Once dry, I "dry-brushed" it with Floquil's Old Silver in order to highlight the cast-on details. 

Have Fun.... Bob.

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • 8,040 posts
Posted by fifedog on Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:39 AM

Bob grech - really nice effect there.  Never heard of dry-brushing with silver, but your results look good.  I get the same exposed cast iron "look", but it's usually from side-swiping/run-away rear-ending collisions...Laugh [(-D]

Just remember folks, no matter how good your layout lighting is, everything looks darker inside.  So any weathering will help pop out those details that you paid for.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Canada
  • 142 posts
Posted by FastTracks on Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:55 AM

Hi,

 Black paint on a steam engine model will look odd, at least that is what I have found.  I prefer to re-paint RTR engines with Weathered Black and work from there.

 About a year ago I did a weathering a steam engine post on my blog, it can be found here...

Weathering a Steam Engine 

I cover the process I use step by step.

 

Cheers! Tim Warris CNJ Bronx Terminal
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Sunday, June 17, 2007 10:40 AM

The black fades so it tends towards a grey.

Soot collects on the top and grime/dust on the bottom. 

Oil and grease drips/splashes from the running gear.

Off topic weathering note:  Steam era track will have grease marks along the ends of the ties because they used steam engines with all the lubed portions outside the rails and plain bearings with oil that were outside the rails.  Modern track will have a grease mark just inside the rails from grease leaking out of the gearboxes on the diesels and nothing outside the rials because the equipment uses sealed roller bearings.

I have seen interesting results with adding a little bit of blue to the black paint for a well maintained engine, one that is a profitable road in its prime where the engines are wiped down after every trip and adding alittle bit of red to older engines, to give the black a "warm' cast of hot metal and a slight hint of rust.

There will be rust around the smokebox, there will be calcium deposits where steam or water leaks (whistles, blowoff cocks, popvalves, steam exhaust for compressors, dynamos, etc).

I personally like Harbor Mist grey for weathering, it has a warm cast to it.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Brisbane, Australia
  • 784 posts
Posted by mikelhh on Sunday, June 17, 2007 5:58 PM

 Excellent tutorial and website, Tim.

 

 Mike 

Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0

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