Does anyone know what I can use in place of WS Scenic Cement? The bottle I got w/ one of their modular learing kits is all separated w/ a big clump of paste at the bottom of the bottle and the liquid on top.
Or, is there a secret to mixing it so I can use it out of the bottle?
Thanks!
//signed// John Powell President / CEO CNY Transportation Corp (fictional)
http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s303/nuts4sports34/
Hunter - When we met in January of 2000, you were just a 6 week old pup who walked his way into this heart of mine as the only runt in the litter who would come over to me. And today, I sit here and tell you I am sorry we had to put you down. It was the best thing for you and also the right thing to do. May you now rest in peace and comfort. Love, Dad. 8 June 2010
I love you and miss you Mom. Say hi to everyone up there for me. Rest in peace and comfort. Love, John. 29 March 2017
Elmer's white glue that is available from practically any type of store that carries school, office, or construction supplies, diluted 50/50 with water or rubbing alcohol, should work just as well as the WS product.
I've never used the WS Scenic Cement, but think it is probably water soluble. Try stirring the solid lump from the bottom of the jar with a toothpick or small screwdriver blade and see if it can be salvaged.
Just shake it alot and what settled at the bottom will mix.
I just got a new bottle and it's marked: "New and Improved Formula". It doesn't settle to the bottom like the old formula.
Yep, just keep shaking. Mine seperates like that all the time.
I use 50% matte Mod Podge, 40% water and 10% rubbing alcohol when I make my own.
JPowell wrote: The bottle I got w/ one of their modular learing kits is all separated w/ a big clump of paste at the bottom of the bottle and the liquid on top. Or, is there a secret to mixing it so I can use it out of the bottle?Thanks!
The bottle I got w/ one of their modular learing kits is all separated w/ a big clump of paste at the bottom of the bottle and the liquid on top.
Mine does that as well. Just give it a good vigorous shaking until it is all mixed together and it will work just fine. I got my bottle about a year ago and it sat for about 6 weeks until I got around to using it. After that it sat for several months until I got around to needing it again. Same condition, good shake and use. No problems.
Blue Flamer.
Stir a lot, shake a lot.
I prefer Ailene's Tacky Glue. It comes in a squeeze bottle with a nozzle, like a ketsup dispenser so there's no mess. It doesn't seem to separate out in the bottle. The nozzle makes it easy to apply small amounts where it's required. It's tacky enough to hold most stuff in place until it cures. You can get it at a hobby and craft store like Michaels.
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
Definately use the Elmer's glue-Rubbing Alcohol mix.
It dries way faster.
Sounds to me like there are two kinds of glues being discussed, one for fixing small scenery items, i.e. WS Scenic Cement, Ailene's Tacky Glue and the second being a more diluted blend of white glue and alcohol for ballast and ground covers.
In any event, I use the Tacky glue for shrubs (foams) and larger stuff. I buy bottles of Liquitex Matte Medium and mix it with alcohol 50-50 for ballast and misting over textures.