If any of you remember a long time ago when I talked about building a huge layout that would fill my basement, that plan has been scrapped. I am now focusing on a smaller, stage-by-stage approach. My plan for the first phase is a 5x9 area that will encompass the engine service facility, the town of Lowellville, and a small river. Plans are not yet finalized. The only thing I see becoming a problem is keeping the tables I made for it flat (they have since warped slightly during the past year.). Any suggestions?
One suggestion, go to your public library and check out a few books on model railroad bench work, home carpentry, and deck building. Sounds to me like you need a lot more details than can be posted on a forum, you need books, man! Build strong using tried and true methods. There is a world of professional carpenters on call 24/7 rain or shine in those books I mentioned should you have a question. Follow their advice and you will become wise.
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
My condolences on the fire. Hope nobody got hurt.
I'm going to have some Amtrak traffic on mine as well. I need to get myself one of those long-hood EMD switchers and a few more frieght cars myself.
I've got a CSX U33C, a BNSF GP38-2 which I plan to paint in the new CSX paint scheme, several CSX frieght cars, a bunch of BN and GN stuff, an Amtrak F40PH (scheme III) and three 83' passenger cars. Not to mention the fairly sizable collection of buildings I have acquired buring the past few years. I hope to start rebuilding the benchwork soon.
I found this cool software called XTrackCAD that lets you do all the layout-designing things and even run your trains on it! This will help me design my layout better.
Check it out!
http://www.xtrkcad.org
It turns out we may be remodeling out basement (to hide the water heaters and AC unit) so it might be a while before I can really begin on the railroad. But for now, I can continue my track planning and working on the plan for the basement remodel.
Since we haven't ever used our basement for anything except storing junk, we'll have to clean it out. Then, I'll bring in my uncle (who happens to work in construction and will be able to help with the putting up of walls) and put up the wood framing and drywall. Then we'll start on the ceiling (probably putting up some soffits around the airconditioner ducts and putting in a semi-drop ceiling (our basement has 8 foot ceilings, but there are ducts and pipes that make the usable ceiling 7 feet) and making the wires (cable coming in from the street, etc) up against the wall). We'll have to replace the window, put down some outdoor carpeting, and then put in some more lights. Quite a list when you think about it. So, I will be posting the progress of that remodel as well.
click picture to enlarge
Our basement is roughly 50 by 25 (the usable part, the section under the laudry room is a crawlspace) and the part that will become the train room is about 10 by 30. That includes the window and what will become the workbench. The section on the other side of the new wall will become the "manhole" with TV and couch, and probably a fridge of some type (also doubles as a layout reception room). All of this will most likely take over a month, and we can't start until the basement is cleaned out. That's a task in and of itself. The reason there's so much of the basement going to be lost by the new wall is because I have to have a buffer around the AC and water heaters and there's some extremely low ducts and pipes, and I decided to seal those inside the new wall. The space inside the new wall will probably become a closet.
CSXGUY, thanks for sharing. I do hope you keep this thread updatted for us all to see.
I suggest that you have a humidity problem. There have been many disscusions on this but it seems that one of the best solutions is to simply seal the wood with sealer or paint. I would use paint myself. Don't scrimp on anything, big L-girders at least 4"or 6" inches depending on how far you plan to span to the next support. Joists should be 3"to 4", I used 2" and it was a mistake, still strong but could be better. Put the joists 12" to 16" on center and top with 3/4" subroadbed. This may take a bit of extra effort but you will be able to climb on it and not worry about it.The subroadbed must be very strong or the extra deflexion will cause the track to change characteristics constantly. Imagine a new set of problems every time the weather changes.
I like the sectional aproach. Even a small bedroom layout could turn into a monster so take it a little at a time. This way you can experience every aspect from start to finish detailing.
John
Actually, I think I'll be able to salvage the existing benchwork by just swapping out the plywood topper. I used 2x4s for the legs and framing, so I can already walk on it (I've tried and done it).
As far as the basement de-junking, my mom and I cleared out a lot of stuff and found a hidden doorway. Imagine that. Now I don't have to worry about the low ducts, because that will be in the area next to the door (which will probably become a closet). Since that area is directly underneath the downstairs half-bath, we might even be able to put in a small bathroom there. That would come in quite handy (not to mention raise the value of our house). That leaves me with more room by my workbench because I won't have to put the door there.