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Need plans for table that can raise to ceiling

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  • Member since
    April 2003
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Need plans for table that can raise to ceiling
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 17, 2003 7:20 PM
Saw an article on space saving ideas that included plans on building space saving tables. Some folded from the wall and other could be raised to ceiling when not being used. I am trying to build a table that can be raised to the ceiling. It would lower down over top of another table. That way I could have 2 layouts. I just am unsure about the best way to do this. Any ideas or suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated. thanks Tmac
  • Member since
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  • From: City of Québec,Canada
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Posted by Jacktal on Monday, November 17, 2003 7:45 PM
Everything can be done by one who sets his mind to it....well,almost.I like the challenge of trying to come up with solutions to sometimes complicated problems.

I'd like to give your question some thoughts but you're not giving much parameters such as:
1)Is your goal space saving or you want a second layout within same space?
2)is your room the dedicated layout room or it is used for other purposes?
3)how large you wish your layout to be?
4)If you wi***o hoist your layout to the ceiling,it can't be done with simple inserts in plaster,you'll have to use the house structures somehow.Is this a problem?

I'll come back to the forum tomorrow and take a look at this post again,and if I can help I'll be happy to.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 17, 2003 8:16 PM
Check out John Armstrong's book called "Creative Layout Design". There was a design for just such a table with a pulley system that lifted it to the ceiling. His other book called "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" would also be helpful. Good luck.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 1, 2004 10:01 PM
I need to do the same for a complete lego city with a fully operating train set too.
The table will weigh approx. 200 to 300 pounds. The table doesn't have to be flush with the ceiling but I would like only one lifting point not four.
Any Information would help. I would prefer on line ideas if possible.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 1, 2004 10:57 PM
Ive given thought to this myselff. I don't know, haven't gotten real deep but just am wondering if you could use ratchet tie-downs fastened to your ceiling joists and your benchwork.. They have a locking mechanism once you reach your desired tightness and also have a reversing button which allows this to be undone to slacken. Thats what I would experiment with. They have a load limit of 500 lbs each on the heavy duty ones too I believe. May be worth considering.
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Posted by ndbprr on Thursday, December 2, 2004 11:48 AM
Way back in the late 60's MR featured a railroad in a two car garage that raised up when not being operated. It filled the garage so it can be done. the mechanism was a study in simplicity even though the idea did not appeal to me. The person attached cables to the sides of the layout and attached coffee cans to the other end after the cable went over a pulley. Weights were added to the cans to balance the railroad. as the railroad weight changed the weight was added or subtracted to the cans. the 2x4 supports for the pulleys kept the railroad in allignment. i would suspect based on size that railroad was well over 1000# and maybe double that since it was at least 20' x20'. It could be moved up and down with one hand. If I were making one portable I would go that way over folding one up against a wall since everything loose has to be removed.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 3, 2004 2:57 PM
My father inlaw has a trailer hanging in his garage that weighs around 700 pounds. He uses a boat trailer winch and 4 cables ran through sets of pulleys to get the job done. I cable goes to each corner of the trailer then up through a pulle mounted to the ceiling. They then go over to the wall and through a larger pulley before they all come down and attach to the drum of the winch. The hardest part is getting the pulleys mounted to the ceiling well (need good support) and then getting the cables mounted to the drum. His cables are relatively small so he used 1 large cable clamp around all four after they went through the hole in the drum of the winch. It sounds complicated but it's fairly easy once you see the parts for yourself.
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  • From: Christchurch New Zealand
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Posted by NZRMac on Friday, December 3, 2004 7:54 PM
I've tried raising an rr layout up to the ceiling, using pulleys and nylon rope. the layout was 8x4 and had scenery etc on it the frame work started to bend after awhile.
And it was always a worry raising it up if something snapped or a pulley jammed it mite all come crashing down, you need a good winch low speed or low ratio, cause even an 8X4 ply sheet and some framework is heavy.

I'd stick to round the walls or something like that.

Ken[8D]
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 4, 2004 3:16 PM
Hmm, i think honestly you would have better luck having scotty transport the layout to the enterprise, but i would say that the best thing to do would be to definately secure the corners underneath the layout with a kind of "x" framework from corner to corner, inside a box frame. This would have to be pretty strong in order to preventing the plywood top from sagging in the middle. I think it would also look pretty good when raised. But i would imagine that it would be at least a 2 man job in order to raise or lower the layout safely. I would definately use some kind of saftey crank on either side of the layout, run on a series of pullies. If the layout is anything other than a flat plywood base, i don't see how it could be possible to raise and lower it wothout stressing every joint that holds it together time and time again.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 12, 2005 9:56 PM
I have built a layout that is one of a kind. Here in Florida we are limited to space due to no basements.
My layout was started in Jan of this year 05. it weighs about 750lbs. (15x 10) It is raised to the cathedral ceiling, which is 13 feet above with four hoist motors mounted in the attic which have a rating of over 800lbs EACH. Switches for lowering and raising are mounted nicely in the wall. BEST of all you can adjust the height for small children at eye level to really enjoy or on the floor for working on the layout.
If you what to talk cool watching this massive O gauge going up and down leaves a person speech less. I currently have 4 tracks layed with ross switches and gargraves track. Running old 2343's and 2 ZW's one old and one new for the TMCC stuff
Wonder if a magazine would be interested? It’s the only way to go.
239-540-2888 Bill
  • Member since
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  • From: Northern CA Bay Area
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Posted by cuyama on Thursday, May 12, 2005 10:57 PM
This question is posted every couple of months, so obviously a lot of people think about it. I've seen a couple of layouts built this way.

The discussion in Armstrong's Creative Layout Design (mentioned earlier)is the most thorough. There was also a good article on a large layout built in this fashion in Model Railroader, June 1977, page 52: "The Midland Valley RR, hanging layout in 3 car garage " by Jim Hediger.

Some key points:
- Keeping the framework as stiff as possible, trading off vs. weight, is important.
- Whatever you use to raise/lower the frame, it needs to be set up to keep the frame level if you want to leave trains on it.
- Using a counterweight system that allows you to incrementally add bricks, blocks, sandbags, etc. to offset the increased weight as you add scenery and such is a good option. That way, one person or a low-horsepower motor can always easily raise or lower the frame. I have seen fairly large layouts manually lifted with one hand (literally) -- now that's impressive!
- But as you add weight, keep in mind the suspension point(s) from the ceiling. As things get heavier, you may run into challenges there, because with a counterweight system, one is doubling the total weight on the suspension point(s).

Good luck

Byron

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