Turnouts for DCC

[Anonymous]

Hi everyone,

I am about to purchase  some turnouts for my HO. Most of them will be No.5's and No. 6's. because of my small radius (18"). Will use DCC. Should I purchase insulated or noninsulated frog turnouts? Must be code #83. I don't want to do any extra soldering on them except for the feeders.

Thanks,

dj

[jbinkley60]

Hi everyone,

I am about to purchase  some turnouts for my HO. Most of them will be No.5's and No. 6's. because of my small radius (18"). Will use DCC. Should I purchase insulated or noninsulated frog turnouts? Must be code #83. I don't want to do any extra soldering on them except for the feeders.

Thanks,

dj

I use insulated frogs from Atlas and Walthers with no problems.  No extra soldering, cutting gaps etc... 

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks,

that is what I needed to know. My reading and research had suggested as much.

 

[cacole]

In code 83 HO scale track, I have found Walthers/Shinohara, Atlas, and Peco to be about equal in quality and method of construction.  All three brands are now fully insulated for DCC compatibility, and the only time you'll need to use an insulated rail joiner is if you want to create a parking siding that can have the power turned off, or if you are creating a reverse loop.

 

[fwright]

Hi everyone,

I am about to purchase  some turnouts for my HO. Most of them will be No.5's and No. 6's. because of my small radius (18"). Will use DCC. Should I purchase insulated or noninsulated frog turnouts? Must be code #83. I don't want to do any extra soldering on them except for the feeders.

Thanks,

dj

If you are indeed using 18" radius, there is no need to use #6 turnouts.  Atlas #4 (really a #4.5) and #5 turnouts have a closure rail radius of around 22" - 26".  And they are quite a bit shorter than a #6.

I personally prefer to power the frogs of my turnouts (has very little to do with whether the frogs are insulated or not).  Powering the frogs requires an electrical contact on the turnout throw mechanism or switch machine to give the frog the correct polarity.  On the older Atlas (or other) turnouts with plastic frogs, powering frogs is not possible.  Powered frogs become more important as the turnout # goes up and the frog becomes longer.  Powered frogs prevent stalling with shorter locomotives, and eliminate the flickering in lighted cars.

my thoughts, your choices

Fred W

[csmith9474]

Hi everyone,

I am about to purchase  some turnouts for my HO. Most of them will be No.5's and No. 6's. because of my small radius (18"). Will use DCC. Should I purchase insulated or noninsulated frog turnouts? Must be code #83. I don't want to do any extra soldering on them except for the feeders.

Thanks,

dj

If you are indeed using 18" radius, there is no need to use #6 turnouts.  Atlas #4 (really a #4.5) and #5 turnouts have a closure rail radius of around 22" - 26".  And they are quite a bit shorter than a #6.

I personally prefer to power the frogs of my turnouts (has very little to do with whether the frogs are insulated or not).  Powering the frogs requires an electrical contact on the turnout throw mechanism or switch machine to give the frog the correct polarity.  On the older Atlas (or other) turnouts with plastic frogs, powering frogs is not possible.  Powered frogs become more important as the turnout # goes up and the frog becomes longer.  Powered frogs prevent stalling with shorter locomotives, and eliminate the flickering in lighted cars.

my thoughts, your choices

Fred W

I was actually to going to mention something along the same lines (although it doesn't appear you will be using "longer" turnouts). I am using Walthers/Shinohara DCC friendly turnouts, but have discovered that they aren't that friendly. I am going to have to solder jumpers anyhow because of the longer turnouts (such as the 7.5 curved that I am using). This is because of the shorter wheelbased locos, such as F7s.