Lowes, Home Depot or Mennards should have them or a generic "Suitcase" connector. Are you close to one of these stores?
JIM
Jim, Modeling the Kansas City Southern Lines in HO scale.
Karle,
If you're looking for the pre-tinned wire for your track feeders, you'll find it if you live close to a Fry's electronic store. I found several colors of 22, 20 and 18 gauge wire in 100 foot rolls that were all pre-tinned. They have an online store at http://www.outpost.com. I hope this helps.
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Two questions for those that have used suitcase connectors. I plan on using 12 ga stranded for my DCC busses (bussoose?) for NCE PowerCab.
1. Will the light blue connector, which accepts 14 solid wire, work with 12 ga stranded?
2. If not, what size wire will I need to use for the track feeders off of the buss, if I use the yellow suitcases, which are for 12 ga and 10ga (stranded) wire? Will I have to stick with 12 or will I be able to get reliable connections with say 16-18?
Thanks in advance for any help!
rockythegoat wrote: Two questions for those that have used suitcase connectors. I plan on using 12 ga stranded for my DCC busses (bussoose?) for NCE PowerCab. 1. Will the light blue connector, which accepts 14 solid wire, work with 12 ga stranded? 2. If not, what size wire will I need to use for the track feeders off of the buss, if I use the yellow suitcases, which are for 12 ga and 10ga (stranded) wire? Will I have to stick with 12 or will I be able to get reliable connections with say 16-18? Thanks in advance for any help!
Joe Fugate uses the smaller connectors with #12 wire by precutting the insulation, just running an knife around it, and then putting that slot in the fork of the connector. Claims over 10 years with no failures using this method.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Wal-Mart also sells a similar product called Posi-Tap. Much easier to use.
Here is a link to the manufacturer that shows how they work:
http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html
caellis wrote:Wal-Mart also sells a similar product called Posi-Tap. Much easier to use. Here is a link to the manufacturer that shows how they work: http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html
caellis wrote:The Posi-Taps are reusable!
But wouldn't the plan be to only use it once, anyway?
Yeah that is the plan... However the Posi-Taps are so much easier to use while under the work bench. No awkward position trying to close them with pliers or what ever you use. And being able to move them if needed is really easy.
Besides I am 72 years old and anything that is easier to use while under the work bench is a good reason for me to use them.
Oh, I forgot... each tap can have up to 4 feeders, so you get 4 for the price of one!
caellis wrote:Vail & Southwestern RR But wouldn't the plan be to only use it once, anyway? Yeah that is the plan... However the Posi-Taps are so much easier to use while under the work bench. No awkward position trying to close them with pliers or what ever you use. And being able to move them if needed is really easy. Besides I am 72 years old and anything that is easier to use while under the work bench is a good reason for me to use them. Oh, I forgot... each tap can have up to 4 feeders, so you get 4 for the price of one!
I wasn't meaning to be critical, in the least. Your other reasons for preferring them make a lot of sense, and give me a reason to look into them. The re-use angle really didn't, so I appreciate the further info.
One thing is for sure. You should use what works for you. Some folks won't touch IDCs and insist on soldering everything. I wouldn't go that way, but if it is right for them, it certainly isn't wrong!
Hello,
I use the blue, 3M connectors for my 12 GA (and sometimes 10GA) bus and 18 GA feeders without a problem. You can reuse them if you are careful with removal, but only have had to do when I was a complete NOB at placing one pair! Good luck... I will be using them this weekend to wire a new bunch of track.... love em, but as V&S said, some peeps don't like them. Me, well, I hate solder splashing on me, so I chose these. Good luck.
Brian
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:I've used suitcase connectors enough to know that I don't want to use them anymore.
Ditto, in spades. My rail feeders run from the rail (soldered to, not dependent on rail joiner connection) to a screw terminal strip, then to a screw terminal strip at the rear of the local control panel. The terminal strips are under the aisle edge of the layout, readily accessible to a seated electrical maintainer. They are also exhaustively labeled, which makes troubleshooting a lot easier.
Some people swear by suitcase connectors. Others swear at them. Count me in the latter camp.
Chuck (running analog DC, MZL standard)
Over the years ive broken a few of these apart during fault finding expiditions. Im not talking model railroads here but rather atuomotive where 12 volt and similar currents are used. Alot of These faults have been attributed to people fitting the scotchlock conector, either fitting a stereo, alarm, extra lights, etc etc.
These 'handy' little devices are ok when they are new but over time ive found that an oxide coating from the atmosphere builds up on the small slotted blade inside and forms a white non conductive powdery surface. On throwing the thing in the nettles, and hard wiriing this normaly sorts any problems.
These things are ok for a quick fix or temporary job but i wouldnt rely on them long term, their abit of a bodge IMO.
This discussion appears every few months on the forum.
I'll not use IDCs because over time they can become problematic - I've seen it on other non-model railroading applications. But some rather prominent and well-respected members of the forum (like Joe Fugate) use them extendively and have not had a problem.
On the other hand, many claim that feeders on every (or nearly every) section of track are required because rail joiners begin having problems with conductivity (unless they're soldered) over time. I've never had that happen over years and years of use.
Who is right? All of us. I do what works for me; others do what works for them. Maybe not real helpful, but certainly true.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
jbloch wrote:Chuck/Jeffrey:I'd be interested to know what exact kinds of problems you've had with suitcase connectors. After having viewed discussions on this subject on several other threads, I'm strongly considering using them for my bus/feeder connections when I do my layout. I know one argument against them is at least a theoretical concern over connection failure at a higher rate than soldered connections over time, but as I plan on soldering every section of flextrack, this would be less of a concern to me. It seems to me the advantages of avoiding cumbersome positioning when trying to solder underneath the layout(as in getting burned!) would outweight this concern.Jim
Can't speak for Jeffery, but these are the problems (in addition to faulty installation and high-humidity corrosion) that I've encountered:
Note that I said that my wiring runs from rail (soldered from above track level) to terminal strips adjacent to, and readily accessible from, the aisleways. I do my connecting while seated in a chair, with the work at diaphragm level. Since I snag hanging wires (fed down from the top) with a miniature boat hook, there's never a reason to have to try to solder, suitcase fasten or otherwise mess with wiring from under the table, or even to get more than one arm under the table. (The same does not hold true for securing joists to L girders, or risers to joists and/or roadbed - but that is an entirely different can of worms.)
To answer the other obvious question, I install both manual throws and switch machines adjacent to the terminal strips, connected to the points by cable in a manner similar to that used by Joe Fugate. Once again, all of the electricals are installed while seated in a chair.
Chuck
Here is what I'll say about all this, but then leave it to everyone to have their own opinion.
If they are falling off due to vibration, they were never on right in the first place. If the wire is breaking they are either getting handled an awful lot, weren't the right connector for the wire (or vice-versa), or again, they were not installed correctly. The corrosion thing I might buy in a really bad environment.
But here is the thing. Every ethernet cable, ribbon cable, phone cable (in the last 20 years, anyway), etc., etc. is an IDC. They work the same way. Little forks displace the insulation and grap the wire. They don't fail, at least not on a regular basis, if the right wire is used with the right connector. (Joe Fugate even gets away with the wrong wire, by using a little extra care.
Obviously, I haven't seen the failures referred to here, and I am NOT questioning the accuracy of the statements, but my money is on over 90% of the failures tracing back to faulty installation in the first place. If you take care, and do it right (it is a two step process, the metal with the forks crimped into place and then the suitcase closed, I'll bet the ones that fall apart are done in one operation, or are not fully seated to begin with), they should last in any normal model railroad environment, the only exception possibly being a highly corrosive (say near salt water) one.