Of all the things I've learned as a novice model railroader, the one that I think will forever stick with me is if you're going to have track problems it will be with turnouts. I have 2 or 3 that are giving me headaches and if and when I finally decide to bite the bullet and rip them out and replace them with some other brand, I don't think I'll solder them in place nor will I put any type adhesive under them. The only part of the turnouts that I've put adhesive is under the very ends of them, never.. of course anywhere near the middle section.
This gets me to wondering how other mrr'ers feel about it. Do you solder your turnouts and/or use adhesive?
JaRRell
P.S. Do those solder sucker things really work? Are they necessary?
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Thanks Jeff, I appreciate the reply.
I never solder turnouts to the adjacent track. At least not since the day I had to remove a defective one that was soldered in. I put a pin (actually I use HO track spikes on my N scale track) at each of the three ends to hold it in place and let the bonded ballast keep it in place. If I ever have to remove it, I just have to slide the rail joiners back, soak the ballast with "wet" water and pry it up with a putty knife. You can almost depend on having to replace a couple of turnouts over the life of your layout.
As for solder suckers, I've been in the electronics business most of my life and I use them. My preference is the ones with the spring-loaded plunger. They work well. If you're doing any electronic work, you need them. Some people swear by the braid that soaks up solder, but I've never found that works well for me. Others like the hand-squeezed bulb, but I don't think it creates enough suction for anything but the most delicate work. The spring-loaded ones are strong enough to pull solder off rail.
..... Bob
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Got you all beat. I have zero problems with my turnouts. An I don't solder them or glue them down in anyway. The adjasent track is glued down and it holds the turnouts in place. If I ever want to remove or replace one, I just slide the joiners back and take it out. Never had a problem.
But what I do do, for very smooth operation over the center part, is dump in a little epoxy and then very carefullly when dried, us a hack saw blade to smooth out the crossings. constanly running a wheel set back and forth until sliky smooth.
DON
Mark P.
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I appreciate the replys so far. Personally, I will never solder another turnout in place. That may cause me problems on the electric continuity side of things, but I could have soooo easily taken these 2 turnouts out if I had not soldered them in place.
Turnouts are the only trackwork with moving parts, so it's only natural that they will be the first thing to fail or give you problems -- it's just the nature of the beast. Even real railroads have problems at and with turnouts.
I never, ever solder a turnout into place because of the likelihood of eventually having to replace it, regardless of brand name. If any electrical continuity problems crop up later I add feeder wires to the outside rails on both sides somewhere near the turnout's mid-point.
jacon12 wrote: I appreciate the replys so far. Personally, I will never solder another turnout in place. That may cause me problems on the electric continuity side of things, but I could have soooo easily taken these 2 turnouts out if I had not soldered them in place.
Use jumper wires to each piece of rail and NEVER rely on mechanical connections (rail-rail) to feed power anywhere... but especially not in switches.
jacon12 wrote:Do you solder your turnouts and/or use adhesive?
JaRRel, like many of the others, and after paying keen attention when Randy R. warned us about soldering layouts into place early last year, I have only every relied on the short runs of ballast in an around the turnouts to keep them in place. Taking care to keep the sweep of the points rails and the throwbar clear, I place the ballast to the extent possible, and then glue it lightly, just enough so that it stays in place and holds the turnout securely. If I ever have to rip one out, I pick at the ballast around the joiners, slide them back, and lift out the turnout after sliding a thin paint scraper under it to break the thin glued layer at the surface.
To replace, scrape the roadbed carefully of all ballast material, place the turnout, slide on the joiners, and re-ballast as before.
So, what problems are you having...surely not the shorting thing at the frogs all over again?
-Crandell