What is a good brand of track for DCC? As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have old Atlas brass track.
I am going with flex track and new turn-outs, so I was wondering what is used the most and if I can just lay it down or have to do anything to keep the trains from shorting.
I am also planning on using Midwest cork roadbed but am not sure what is the best way to fix the track to it. I will not be spiking it like real proto track though.....I know that.
Finally, I don't know the best way to glue the ballast to the roadbed.
Any help on these three subjects?
Thanks, Mike/Nightshade
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Mike, what scale are you in? Not that it really matters, but one thing you will have to decide is the code of track that you will use. I am in HO so will discuss the choices here.
Code: The code of track represents the thickness of the rail. Code 100 and code 83 are two common codes used in HO. Code 83 is more prototypical with code 100 being heavier rails with greater height. Both are commonly available and most manufacturers of HO track make rail in both types. I chose to use 100 because I have some older trains with deeper wheel flanges that I want to be able to run.
Brand: The choice of brand is going to be based on the look, availability and the cost. Atlas, Peco, Walthers, Microengineering all make decent track. All will work with DCC. Again, I would try and look at the LHS and see if you can see some of these to make your decision. Atlas flextrack will likely be the least expensive of these and will do an effective job. I chose to mix the brands so I use Atlas flex track and Peco turnouts because I felt the Atlas price was good and I liked the features of the Peco track. Take a look at this link http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm it will give you some insight into the relative DCC friendliness of the different brands of switches.
Adhering Track to Cork: There are several glue choices all have been used successfully by many. Adhesive caulk and Liquid Nails or other construction adhesive works well (Keel LN away from foam). Simply run a bead down the center line of the cork and spread it thin. Hold the track in place with pins and weights until it dries. Keep adhesive away from the moving parts of turnouts, some would say don't glue the turnouts at all.
Ballast: Get the ballast in place. Mist with a "wet" water solution (water with a few drops of detergent) then once the ballast has be wetted thru drizzle a mixture of white glue and water (50/50) and let it soak into the ballast. MRR has some articles on this procedure on the web site http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=379
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
I am going with HO scale. I have several nits of rolling stock that I want to use (stuff from the 70's). I have two steam units, a small switcher and an AHM diesel that I doubt I'll be able to use with DCC, but I do have a Bachmann F9 unit I purchased last year that I might be able to install a decoder in.....
Track code? I heard that code 100 will work with my older rolling stock. Not sure about that. I want a respectable track, but it doesn't have to look exactly like a proto track. I agree with jbloch above...I don't want to hassle with differing track heights. I will be gong with the same brand for track and turnouts. Cost and how well it works will be the two factors I will be using to determine which to get.
I am concerned about the turnouts....I read all this info on this forum about short circuits at turnouts. It almost makes me second think the decision to go DCC. With the shorting concern, I would have thought that would have been resolved earlier since DCC has been here for a good decade or so. Maybe those concerned about shorting have older, non-DCC friendly, turnouts?
Thanks about the info on adhering the track to the cork roaded.
Ballast.....I take it that it will take a long time gluing the ballast down? By using a glue bottle, I see that I will be needing to refill that bottle quite a bit.....how much glue do you lay down on the ballast? Just cover it all and that'll do? Does anyone have an idea on how much ballast will get covered by one bottle of glue mixture?
Mike/Nightshade
About shorts at turnouts. If you use turnouts with live frogs or power directing rails, you can get shorts. If you use turnouts with insulated frogs, the possibility of shorts falls into the basement. I use insul-frog turnouts and rarely have any shorts, about the only time I do is if a locomotive derails on the turnout, also rare.
Your choice of turnout will depend on what motive power you're running. An F7 will negotiate an insul-frog turnout very nicely. A 4 wheel switcher may not. The smallest locomotive I have is a 4-4-0 American. It has pick-ups on the loco wheels and the tender wheels, and it has no problem with insul-frog turnouts
So the modern 'jeeps' I purchase down the road should be ok?
Thanks all for your input. I'll take it and run with it.
jbloch wrote:Only thing I would add is to be careful mixing/matching different brands of flextrack/turnouts. For example, with Atlas flextrack and Walther's turnouts, there's a difference in the tie heights requiring shimming of the turnouts (or of the flextrack?--I don't remember which is higher from other thread discussions). ... Jim
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Mike,
I'm involved with the local division of the NMRA. Every year we build a small project layout to raffle off to raise money for operating expenses.
This year another member and myself built the layout and used Atlas code 83 flextrack and turnouts. We mixed in tow lengths of Walthers code 83 bridge track with no problem. At the joining of the two, the ballast took care of any difference in tie thickness. The Atals turnouts work well and are fully DCC compatible.
I model in N scale for my own layout, but the HO layout we built turned out really nice.
I was impressed with the Atlas code 83 products, with one ecception. The turnouts have the ties at the ends shaped for rail joiners just like their snap track. If we'd had more time, i'd have removed this small section of ties and replaced it with excess ties for the flex track for a better look. As it turned out, you have to look for the irregularity, so it would be up to you how to finish it out.
For gluing ballast, i tried something alittle out of the ordinary, by adding one part alcohol to the 50/50 mix of water and white glue. I also, wet the ballast with alcohol instead of wetted water before applying the glue mixture. I found that it allows the glue to flow into the ballast more easily and as the alcohol evaperates, the glue water mixture sets hard and in the same amount of time. Just be sure to have some ventilation, as the alcohol fumes can get strong if you're not careful.
I hope my two cents worth of advice is helpful.
So you used regular store brand isopropyl alcohol straight when wetting the ballast? Not a mixture with alcohol in it?
Thanks to all for that info. I will use this info when purchasing my new track.
I still plan to use some of my old Atlas brass track for sidings and such...that would be ok wouldn't it?
well, unless you expect to run locos over said brass track...
the only thing(s) brass track is good for:
although it could suffice as a placeholder til you can replace it... then again, it is your layout, so you're making the final call
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
NeO6874 wrote: well, unless you expect to run locos over said brass track...
Actually, there are only 2 things wrong with brass track: 1) brass oxidizes easily, and the oxide is a non-conductor 2) brass when not oxidized is the wrong color to simulate steel.
The rate of oxidation depends upon the climate, pollutants in the air, and many other factors. One way of preventing brass oxidation is to run your trains frequently. I found even in humid Northern Virginia that running trains every other day kept the oxidation away, at least on the track where the trains were run.
Nickel silver does not oxidize nearly as easily as brass. Nickel silver oxide will conduct but resistance is higher than with unoxidized rail. Again, running your trains frequently helps keep the oxidation away.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
I use the cheapest rubbing alcohol I can find at the drug store and I use it straight when wetting the ballast.
For the glue, I use one part Elmers and one part water, mixed thoroughly before adding the alcohol to that mixture. All three items are used in equal parts, but it's important to mix the glue with the water before adding the alcohol. If you add the alcohol to the glue before mixing it with the water, it seems to turn into a gooey glob.
As far as using your brass track for sidings, I can't give you much information, as i've never used brass track, but I have heard bad things about it. Nickle silver flex track is inexpensive. I'd rather spend the little bit extra for the sidings rather than have regrets later.
Ultimately, it's your decision.
jbloch wrote:Only thing I would add is to be careful mixing/matching different brands of flextrack/turnouts. For example, with Atlas flextrack and Walther's turnouts, there's a difference in the tie heights requiring shimming of the turnouts (or of the flextrack?--I don't remember which is higher from other thread discussions). Anyway, the point is this can be an issue. Others have said doing the shimming isn't really that big of a deal; I personally prefer to avoid that hassle. Just my 2 cents worth.Jim
Atlas' ties are a little thicker than Walthers. I'm not sure shimming is necessary (at least I hope not since I didn't bother with mine and I haven't had any problems). My recommendation would actually be to use Walthers' turnouts since they are available in a wider range of sizes than Atlas (which doesn't make a #5 or curved turnout) while using Atlas flextrack, which is cheaper and easier to use than Walthers.
As for ballast, one thing I would keep in mind is the size of ballast you use. A lot of books recommend fine ballast for HO since it is closer to scale. However, bear in mind that the smaller the ballast the greater the tendency is has to get everywhere and acquire a static charge. The thing that really takes time with ballasting track is keeping the ballast off the ties and I've found it is easier to do this with larger ballast that has less of a tendency to fly all over the place and stick to your brush.
Jeffrey, thanks for your point of view. I agree with you that it's my track and I can do with it what I want. Hehe, I was really asking for opinions on brass track based on experience and I hate re-doing something because I didn't know any better. Now.....I do understand and appreciate learning while under fire, but if I can pick y'alls brain before I attempt and screw it up then I'm all for it! I can assure everyone that it'll be easy enough for me to screw it up, even after learning what I can in this forum before hand. :))
My experience amounts to what I can remember from when I was using this track back in 1974 at the age of ten. Hehe.....so we can safely say that I really have no practical experience. I have boxes of track and turn-outs, a bunch of rolling stock and about 5 - 6 steam and diesel engines. Beyond that...I am considered dangerous. :) A virtual empty slate...that's me.
Whitman500, you mentioned using a larger ballast than everyone recommends. Do you have a size, brand or part number for that?
Thanks all,