I've noticed from looking at photos of layouts aound this forum that while mainline track is nearly always on some sort of raised roadbed, siding and spur track seems to be "ground level". I'm wondering if there is any specification for this transition. Logic says that you would start the transition sometime after the turnout but how far? Is it just an eyeball thing? Might be a stupid question but hell, I gotta ask anyway.
I'm using WS foam roadbed over pink foam over plywood.
Thanks!
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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I use 1/4" cork for my mailines and 1/8" for the sidings.
I start the transition immediately past the turnout frog. I use a modified version of the Dolkos supeelevation method - I lay 1/4" masking tape, each layer about in the buildup 3/8" shorter than the last in the center of the transition, with the last few layers on the bottom and the top with greater length changes (the last are 1 7/8" different) to provide a lead-in and lead-out of the transition.
The transition is 16 1/2" long, and the maximum number of tape layers is 24. It takes a bit to lay all that tape, but the work is easy and the results run flawlessly.
Here's a shot of one transition with the first layer of tape in place (in this case a turnout ON the transition):
Here's a side view of the transition after it's completed:
The tape at the thick end tapers off steeply at the thicker roadbed. This eliminates problems of build-up at the cut tape end, which tends to be a little thicker at the cut than along the run of the tape. Ballast will fill in the small valley when I get to the point of balasting. These transitions are very gentle and realistic-looking (for unballasted track). I've yet to have a single derailment on one of them.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
That looks great. I think I'll experiment with that method. Thanks for the great pics too!
Paul
Sorry I didn't respond earlier, we took our summer end family vacation, just unpiled myself from the desk far enough to look at the fun emails.
I'd like to thank everyone for all the great ideas. I should have mentioned that I'm not very far into track laying yet and switching roadbeds is certainly an option. I've combed through the multitude of posts on this subject and certainly don't wish to reopen the dicussion here. That said, I'm going to go buy some cork and play with it for a bit just to see what I think.
I didn't respond earlier to your replies as we took our summer end family vacation. We spent 5 days in Alexandria Bay, Thousand Islands region in NY. If you haven't, someday I highly suggest visiting this beautiful region. Decent fishing too!
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Brunton wrote:I use 1/4" cork for my mailines and 1/8" for the sidings. I start the transition immediately past the turnout frog. I use a modified version of the Dolkos supeelevation method - I lay 1/4" masking tape, each layer about in the buildup 3/8" shorter than the last in the center of the transition, with the last few layers on the bottom and the top with greater length changes (the last are 1 7/8" different) to provide a lead-in and lead-out of the transition. The transition is 16 1/2" long, and the maximum number of tape layers is 24. It takes a bit to lay all that tape, but the work is easy and the results run flawlessly. Here's a shot of one transition with the first layer of tape in place (in this case a turnout ON the transition): Here's a side view of the transition after it's completed: The tape at the thick end tapers off steeply at the thicker roadbed. This eliminates problems of build-up at the cut tape end, which tends to be a little thicker at the cut than along the run of the tape. Ballast will fill in the small valley when I get to the point of balasting. These transitions are very gentle and realistic-looking (for unballasted track). I've yet to have a single derailment on one of them.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
TheK4Kid wrote:On second thought I think I'll borrow your mathod of using masking tape for transitions. I visited your website and was very impressed! I see you use the tape to super elevate curves also.Great idea!Ed
Thanks for the compliments, Ed!
I call the masking tape super-elevation technique the Dolkos method, as I read that Paul Dolkos super-elevates track that way. I don't know if he developed it, or got it from someone else.
I wanted a long, smooth transition between mainline and siding heights, and since masking tape worked so well for super-elevating curves, I figured it might work for my height transitions as well.
Good luck - be sure to show us some photos of your results!
You may want to check the website below for roadbed of various thickness. Used with the "masking tape" method, this may help solve your problem:
http://www.vinylbed.com/default.asp
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org