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Terminal strips?
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Try www.digikey.com for Insulation Displacement Connectors. Size depends on the current passed through the connector, usually want to rate it for several amps which will probably require several pins paralleled depending on the connector - IDC tends to be for small gauge wires (#20 or smaller) and may only be capable of a fraction of an amp per pin. Also needs special tooling to attach the wires. You may be better off with solder lug connectors instead of IDC. <br /> <br />Terminal strips basically hold wires neatly captive under screws, but allow for disassembly with a screwdriver. Strip just enough insulation off the wires to fit the copper into the clamping area of the terminal. The wire leaving the terminal should remain insulated so there can be no chance of the bare copper touching another bare portion of an adjacent wire. <br /> <br />Some terminal strips are arranged with the screw tightening down on a metal 'squeezer' so you don't have to wrap the wires around the screw. Other wire-under-the-screwhead types are arranged in a single row, or can be a double row that connect opposing screws together electrically for joining many wires coming from opposite directions. You can crimp or solder fork terminals to the wires for clamping under the screw, or the wire can be bent into a hook shape to wrap around the screw. Multi wires should be twisted together prior to bending and clamping under the screw, but there is a limit to how many will fit depending on the wire size and the screw size. Just be sure to hook the wire clockwise so that as the screw is tighted the wire tends to wrap around the screw instead of being forced out from under the screw. <br /> <br />You can also solder wires together or use wirenuts (the twist-on plastic joiners that electricians use) instead of terminal strips, but then the wires are harder to take apart should you ever need to.
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