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Great explanation Selector! <br /> <br />The other issue with easements is executing them... There are many methods, ranging from eyeballing it to using advanced calculus. <br /> <br />I'm from the eyeball camp, myself. I typically start the curve about 1/8" for every 45 degrees of curve, further "out" than the exact radius would call for. That means you'll ease about 1/4" for a 90-degree curve and 1/2" for a 180-degree curve. You can make them bigger, but I didn't find it to be helpful or visually appealing. You can do less, but at that point you quickly start to defeat the purpose (IMHO). <br /> <br />Then I bend it evenly until the center of the track is exactly on the radius line to about 45 degrees of curve (or half the arc of the curve if less), continuing "on radius" from that point until it's time to start easing back "out" of the curve. Now, that means on a 90-degree curve or smaller, the whole thing is essentially 'eased' and that works just fine. On a 180 degree turn, you'll have about half your curve "easing" in-and-out (45 degrees on each end) and about half "on radius". <br /> <br />Of course, I use flextrack and a large compass to draw out my radius lines, which is a large help toward this end...
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