Well, my layout is the victim of a garage floor that has a slop. Board is 19 foot long and bulit as a canterlever desigen. In other words oringal board was L shaped and 12 X 8. Then board was made bigger with sectoins that where screw to the first frame to the new section frame. So board does not have one main back bone to lift.
I was thinking starting with the high end, use a level and floor jack, lift the lower part of that section, and correct the legs, go to the next subsection and do the same.
All so any tips on making sure the board is level? Tape messure will not help, all the section's a 34" off the floor. All I have is a bubble level, tips of where and how to check? All so this will be a one person project, that will make it a lttle tuffer.
If pic of my mess will help, I can post some.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
If you are useing foam, all you have to do is shim between the foam and the table structure. If you are using cookie cutter, raise the proper risers. If you are on plywood, shim between the ply and the shelf supportts.
To get level:
1. Get a cheap lazer level at Menards or Home Depot. Fasten it on a homemade transom and line it all up.
2. Get a free wheeling car, set it on the track and level until it sits still.
3. Where you have grades, the eyeball meothod works pretty well. Long passager cars with cheap couplers will tell you where you are too abrupt with grade changes.
The down side of all this is that a garage floor will probably change with the seasons. My basement floor does. Thus I use some shelf couplers to hold trains together and have a few skewers handy to stick in the road bed to hold trains from running down hill when I disconnect them from the engine. I learned that trick from one of the best running opperating layouts in my area.
Ken,
Can you clarify a little bit? Do the legs go to the floor or back to the wall? If the layout is cantilevered from the wall with angled braces to support the table, you need to find the highest point or lowest point and decide which way to level: everything up to the highest point or everything down to the lowest point. Providing of course, that you want the entire table to be flat. Use the longest level you can....if possible, borrow a 6 foot level if you can.
You could also strike a new level line across your studs (for example, 1" above your existing board) and adjust your layout to match the new line. Use some scraps of lumber that are longer than the distance of the layout to the floor to wedge under spots to help push them to the correct level before reattaching any legs or braces.
An overall picture of your layout area would bring more possible solutions.
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
How much scenery is on your layout, and how much structure is below it? To properly use a level, you must be able to lay it on or press it up under the flat table. That can be tough if you've got a long level and a lot of scenery to get it between, which is why I suggested checking the level from below instead, if that's practical. I personally only have a 2-foot level, which seems to be enough for me.
You need to make two measurements, at right angles to each other. In general, check the level from left to right, and then check it from front to back. Also, don't assume that the whole table is level if the center is level. It's likely that the layout will sag in the middle, or have a low or high spot on the ends, so make several measurements (again, in both directions) around the layout to find all the trouble spots.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Ken
How about taking a step back?
Instead o keep fighting what you have why not accept that pretty much as it is and use it for fun while you move on to the next stage of your involvement in the hobby?
If you'll pardon a comparison. When a teenager gets his first cheap car he may try real hard but he is unlikely to make it into a real street rod or track racer. he is just working from the wrong starting point.
Can you clear one side of your layout space while keeping enough of the layout to enjoy playing trains on?
If so take time to concrete and/or screed the floor that side level. This may be a pain but it will be a whole lot easier than trying to level what you have... and once level it will stay level unless you have an earthquale or major land slip. this will not be the case with levelling your layout.
At the same time go back through old posts here, ask questions and get books on layout building... the practical stuf. then choose what kind o baseboard you want to go with with your next effort. You're already learning the reasons for getting the baseboard right before going much further. There's no point in punishing yourself with keep repeating this lesson.
This is quite likely not exactly what you want to hear but it really is the best next step.
Have fun.
Some thoughts on buying a carpenters/masons level of the bubble type. While in the store, check the level by laying it on a "level" surface. Check where the bubble is, then rotate the level 180 degrees ( change ends) and lace it in the same spot and again check the bubble to see it it remain the same. I have often found levels to not be accurate --- this will check it before you buy it and start using it.
The most accurate level is a water level ---- a piece of clear plastic tubing longer than the distance you are leveling, filled to within a couple of inches of full, with water (food coloring can be added to make it easier to read). Pick the point you want to level to, fasten the tubing to said point and use the other end to see wheather a particular point needs to go up or down.
Hope this helps!
John in the 'cow pasture'
When a teenager gets his first cheap car he may try real hard but he is unlikely to make it into a real street rod or track racer. he is just working from the wrong starting point.
Dave, wrong way to but it to me, seems I still have my first car. 68 Plymouth Road Runner, still have the 383 sitting under the train board. Has a 426 Maxie sitting in it and is nasty.
But I get the idea.
Board is based on 2 X 4's and 1/2 plywood.
Will post PIC later, but time to go
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam