trestle track

[scotcamper]

I,m building a wooden bridge for a streetcar track. I was wondering what is the best method to attach track.

[pcarrell]

Are you talking pre-assembled track, or are you spiking your own rails?

Pre-assembled - I've used a number of products in the past. I use latex caulk for a lot of my track, but for bridges I like a little better grip. Devcon 5 minute Epoxy works pretty good, but it can be messy, so be aware of that. With the epoxy, be sure thats where you want the track, 'CAUSE THATS WHERE IT'S GONNA STAY!!! It's a VERY firm grip!

Rolling your own (spiking) - I haven't done this myself, so perhaps someone else will chime in on this method and we'll both learn something!

[ARTHILL]

I used the latex caulk method and am not sorry yet.

[ukguy]

You used caulk on your bridges Art, I was wondering if that would be ok as I am at that stage.... almost.

Have fun & be safe
Karl.

[ARTHILL]

Karl, that trestle of yours may deserve better than caulk. I think I will include the track as part of my large trestle and attach it the same way I build the rest of the trestle. It will be a full "set in" structure so wen my kids have to tear my layout down, they can just lift that out whole for another use.

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ARTHILL

Karl, that trestle of yours may deserve better than caulk. I think I will include the track as part of my large trestle and attach it the same way I build the rest of the trestle. It will be a full "set in" structure so wen my kids have to tear my layout down, they can just lift that out whole for another use.

If it's not wood bridge ties onwood beams, try using Pliobond. Pliobond is a rubbery cement similar to Goo (contact cement). It holds like crazy and the rubbery propeties allow for any expansion. The dark amber coloring will blend in to the ties/ structure if some happens to get in the wrong place. This is the only stuff I'll use for setting ME bridge flex track on plastic or wood.
Bob K.

[tomikawaTT]

Since you mentioned "streetcar," I assume that some of your trackage would have been laid in the pavement, using girder rail with built-in flangeways. The prototype would not have used it across an open bridge, since it was at least twice as expensive as standard T-section rail.

One thing the prototype WOULD have done is weld jumpers around every rail joint, to assure electrical continuity on the 'ground' side of the propulsion power loop. Signaling jumpers (still used today) are about #6 AWG wire. The power jumpers used by the NYC on third rail electrified trackage 50 years ago (and by the JNR and other electrified lines in Tokyo) were about 40MM in diameter. You don't HAVE to include them in your modeling, but they will add to the authenticity.

Chuck (who runs 2000VDC MU cars and motors)

[ukguy]

Thanks Art, Bob,

I've ordered the ME trestle track so I'll see how it looks when it gets here as I've never used it before, handlaying the track up there has also crossed my mind but its a little intimidating.

Have fun & be safe,
Karl.

[Renegade1c]

hand laying the track can seem a little intimdating at first. if you have the right tools its not too bad. you'll need a pin vise, a pair of needlenose pliers, a set of nippers and Kadee makes track spacers that are correct distance apart (used to get correct spacing between rails).

I tend to cut each rail about 3-6 inches longer on each end than the bridge itself. Laying the first rail is the hardest part. On a trestle I find the center of the support beams and place it there. I use the pin vice with a bit slightly smaller than the spike I am using to drill a pilot hole (this seems to help prevent spliting ties). I put one spike in on each side of the rail on each end of the bridge and work towards the center. I put in spikes every 5th tie or so. if you want to prototypical you should spike everyone but I find this to be overkill. the Kadee spacers are used to hold the second rail in place while you spike it in place. if you would like some more detailed info on it let me know.

[ukguy]

thanks for the info renegade, and the offer, the trestle is 7' long with a 12" straight in the middle and sweeping curves either side , kinda untypical for a first attempt at hand laying. Maybe I'll just go with the ME trestle track for now and try handlayong somewhere smaller, then when I have mastered it I can remove the ME track and replace it with handlaid, but hopefully once painted and weathered the ME track will pass my critical eye.

Thanks again,
Karl.