28 foot dog bone suggestions needed

[jim22]

I'm currently running a 4x8 loop of code 100 track in HO with a pair of snap switches to provide an alternate loop - hardly a "layout"!

I have room to make a larger, possibly U-shaped layout.

I also could free up a 28 foot straight wall with room on both ends to loop the track back for continuous running - sort of on a double-main along the wall.

I've never tried scenery, but I'm going to give it a go. I am interested in somewhat realistic operation. I actually read up and planned a yard, but have come to realize that it will take alot of linear space. I also see the fun in running way-freights with a good assortment of sidings, runarounds, industries, warehouses, etc. So far, I have a small fleet of non-DCC locomotives, so I think my first attempt will be DC with blocks.

I'm having trouble getting started. Does a long mainline along the wall with turns on each end sound like a good idea? I think I may also provide grades to a staging yard below the main table.

Maybe I would be better learning scenery techniques on something much smaller?

Thanks in advance for the thoughts....
Jim

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jim22

I'm currently running a 4x8 loop of code 100 track in HO with a pair of snap switches to provide an alternate loop - hardly a "layout"!

The classic first layout. My father made me one of those once. Never understood the point, even when I was a kid.

QUOTE: I am interested in somewhat realistic operation. I actually read up and planned a yard, but have come to realize that it will take alot of linear space.

Why do you want a yard? Any particular reason. They are actually quite boring, compared to other operational possibilities. I mean there is a reason they call it a drill track - back and forth and back and forth.

QUOTE: I also see the fun in running way-freights with a good assortment of sidings, runarounds, industries, warehouses, etc.

That sounds more interesting.

QUOTE: Does a long mainline along the wall with turns on each end sound like a good idea? I think I may also provide grades to a staging yard below the main table.

Sounds like an excellent idea.

QUOTE: Maybe I would be better learning scenery techniques on something much smaller?

Yes, if your goal is to have a completely scenicked layout right away. On the other hand there is always a section of my layouts that has no scenery. Our club layout has large areas that have had no scenery for 10 years.

[claycts]

Jim, just watch out for the REVERSE LOOP in a dog bone. Each end is one so figure where you want your break for the reverse control on each end. Helps to put it on paper.

[Tom Bryant_MR]

28 foot is a pretty good length. How deep can you go?

A couple of things to help you get started.
1) 48 Top-Notch Track Plans from Kalmbach books has a section on what is called doodling. This is done on paper. Cheap easy way to sketch some ideas out within your defined space. It also has several layout designs that will give you some ideas.

2) Track Planning for Realistic Operation, also by Kalmbach books, has basic, every RR'r should have this in their collection, stuff.

3) Download some RR planning software. There are several available depending on how sophisticated you want to get and how much money you are willing to spend. A couple of free ones are at
- Atlas RTS @ http://www.atlasrr.com/default.htm
- XtrkCad @ http://www.sillub.com/

Check the books out at your LHS or check your library.

[BigRusty]

Jim, if you build a double track dog bone there are no reverse loops to contend with. It is essentially a circle of track pinched in the middle to form the dog bone shape. If you bring both ends down to hidden multi track staging yards at each end you can store train A and bring out train B and not have trains chasing their tails. A small yard is a great idea if you have industrial sidings. The cars picked up need to be reshuffled for the next outgoing local turn. Operation is far more fun and far less boring than running trains around in circles. That gets old FAST!

[2021]

Almost all continuous run layouts are circles of some sort. I am building a fairly large layout (20x15) and on one end have a "dogbone". To disguise it, the loop goes under a mountain and rises 2 inches. What you see is a train entering a tunnel and then coming out the opposite side thru a tunnel at a higher elevation (effective witha little imagination like all layouts). Don't keep your track perfectly straight on the straight runs as a little curvature gives the illusion of space between tracks. Two "by-the-ways". First I find the scenicing the most fun part. Two - doglegs take a lot of space (even at 18" radius, you need 36 inches plus at least 2 inches from the edges)
Hope this helps and good luck.
Ron K.

[Anonymous]

Build it modular so you can extend when you want. Build the two dogbone ends then keep adding in the middle until you get to 28 feet. No hurry, work at your own pace and the main line is always ready to operate.

[jim22]

Thanks, these are all good suggestions. I've read Track Planning for Realistic Operation once, but need more time with it. I'll look for a copy of 48 Top-Notch Track Plans.

I considered a yard because I like breaking down and building up trains. I have actually done this on a top-notch layout with much less than a formal yard, so I see no need to get carried away with one. This seems especially true if I have a staging yard where I can store a few trains and some cars on standby.

I think the modular idea is excellent since I can add sections when the imagination strikes and I don't have to completely rearrange my basement all at once. I was figuring a depth of about 32 inches, since the back side is against a wall. I hadn't considered it, but I could go 48 inches or even a bit more if I leave a walk-way between the layout and the wall for maintainance.

I bet I can get some good ideas about how to work some industry tracks on the 4x8 loops at either end from the layout books.

Thanks,
Jim