believable concrete colour for portal: the right mix

[fireman3]

I will try to find a photo of the colour of concrete I am looking for (something like the BNSF Cascades tunnel) , but for now, what mixes of what paints have worked well for you? Have tried Polly S Concrete and Aged Concrete. The Concrete is too dark and too green or taupe. The Aged Concrete is too pinkish. Tried 40 drops of white Woodland Scenics in the Polly S Concrete and that lightened it a bit, but still too dark and too greeny-brown. Ready to start over. I want this portal a believable 6-year old grey (construction date 1949, era 1955). What say you?

[Javern]

no magic recipe for me, I mix and mix until I see what i want. Then since I never write anything down i forget how many drops of whatever colors I mixed together

[TomDiehl]

The colors called "concrete" ar much too dark, more the color of concrete BEFORE it cures. A good mix is to start with the concrete paint and add a pure white to it. Real concrete, after a few years, is a very pale grey. You may need pictures to help you with the ratio.

[topcopdoc]

Concrete because of the sand in it has a touch of yellow in it. Most concrete model RR hobby paints are too Gray. I use acrylic paints I buy in Michael’s Craft Store. I mix Delta Creamcoat Sandstone with White 50/50 and it has the right color for me. If that is too dark keep adding more White.

They always have sales on the paint and I purchased some for 79 cents a bottle, which is not bad for 2oz.

Doc

[selector]

I used acrylics from Walmart, and blended slate gray, white, and a very little yellow. Turned out quite well.

You can't really go wrong by starting with white and a medium or light grey, and then adding some tan, maybe yellow, and even purple , but only parts of a drop, to get the desired colour. Of course, they dry lighter, so that is where the India Ink washes finish nicely.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Gray isn't simply a mitxure of black and white, it is a very wide spectrum of colors, and concrete can be virtually any shade depending on it's age and composition.

My advice is to quit trying to mix it yourself, and just go to where ever you buy wall paint and look at the color chips. This will give you a good selection to choose something close. The hobby paint market is very limited by comparison.

The question is whether to buy a quart or not. Did you know that in small quantities any water based paints are compatable? This means that in addition to regular paint pigments, which can be purchased in small tubes, hobby paints and artist acrylics can be used to tint regular latex paint.

It may seem kind of silly to buy a quart of paint for a project that will take half an ounce, but if you choose a color close to what you want, only lighter, you can mix colors for other projects for your entire railroad.

[nbrodar]

I use Delta Creamcoat. A mix of Fle***an and Hammered Iron. Not sure of the exact ratio, I just mix till it looks right.

Nick

[Anonymous]

I ran into this exact same problem for some concrete walls I cast in plaster. I too tried the 'concrete' and 'aged concrete' and neither looked right. Then I tried Model Master Acryl - Sand. This gives it a subtle yellow/tan look, which to me looks like old concrete. Old, as in something poured 50+ years ago. New concrete tends to be grey and lightens with age.

I finished the concrete with chalks, using a mixture of greys and browns. This gives some variance to the color. Of course, you'll want to add some black soot to the top of the portal to make it grimmy.

[Anonymous]

Funny,

To me the "aged concrete" is right on for concrete grain silos in the CA central valley that were built in the 50's. But that is a very specific usage. Use what you think looks best....obviously opinions vary greatly and prototype old concrete can vary in color enormously depending on aggregate used, mix, weathering, locale etc......