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Here's what has been added to my new benchwork. The tracks and forms for a road. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9acff7d9400000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9acfd7d9600000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] The curved leg of the wye where it goes from gate to layout. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9acfafca100000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] Lower the gate and track separates nicely. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9ba9c7dfc00000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] Lowered further. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9acf8fca300000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] Here is the paved roadway. I used DAP® Plaster of Paris which worked great. First time I've used Plaster of Paris, always have used drywall compound before (mixed stuff). [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9ace4fcbf00000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9ace57d8e00000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] Grade crossing. I used 1/16" balsa strips against the inside rails to keep the flangeways clear of plaster. I used Liquid Nails Lightweight One-Step Spackling in this grade crossing and on other spots on the roadway, first time also and with great results. Trick is to put Vaseline or oil on the balsa strip so the plaster doesn't stick to it. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9ace2fcb900000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] Roadway painted. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9c6d27d8c00000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9c3423d8600000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] Wiring Since the gate is isulated from the rest of the layout it needs to be powered. Here is a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch under the gate used to change the polarity of the tightest leg of the wye. That leg is in a block which means it's isulated from the rest of the trackwork. Power runs through the DPDT switch before it goes to the leg. When a locomotive enters the block the switch needs to be flipped so it doesn't short when crosses on to the other track. Same switch needed in wiring a turntable. Hope I explained it good enough. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9d9d0bc2900000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] These contacts run power from the gate to the new part. Made out of sheet metal. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9d9d73d1e00000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] The contacts rest on these nail heads. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9d9d4bc2d00000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] The nails go through the board with wires soldered that go through the foam to the track above. Not shown [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9aba83d5800000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] Needle on the right in the meter = good. Shows continuity between the contacts and end of the wire soldered to nail. [img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd24b3127cce90d9d9d2bc2b00000016109FbMWrZwg[/img] I think I mentioned everything up to date.
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