Woodland Scenics 2% incline idea

[electrolove]

I don't know if this works or not, I have not tried it, I just holded the incline in my hand and tried the idea. But I think the idea is interesting for a starting point to this problem.

Why do I want to do this? On my layout, the highest point will be around 50 cm higher then the lowest. So most of the time my trains will climb at a 2% grade. When they come to a yard, the yard is flat, and when the yard ends the climb continues again. That's the background. So I need a really good way to start and end the incline.

Woodland Scenics inclines are great, but how do I end an incline in a smooth way? As you can see in the picture I just put something under the incline, around 4 mm thick. And the result is a 's' kind of curve. I think the picture will explain this much better then my crappy english. [(-D] What do you think?

[Anonymous]

I think you would be better off smoothing the very top where it transitions to your yard area or other level track. I have used both sandpaper and a rasp with good results. I think this is what WS had in mind for using their incline sections.

By raising and lowering the 4% riser, as you suggest, even only 4mm, you will result in short, much steeper grades at the transition area of your "S" curve, in effect a "bump".

I built a layout with an unintentional bump in the incline due to poorly prepared subroadbed and it gave me fits until it was repaired.

I hope this helps

[electrolove]

kroninger:

The incline is 2%, not 4% riser as you wrote. But I know what you try to tell me, and I think you are right.

Can you tell me a little bit more about how you use sandpaper and rasp? For example, how much are you sanding the incline, I mean for how long in cm?

[canazar]

Electrove,
I just finished useing the WS 2% incline son my layout. When I was installing them, I had the same thoughts you did. All though, it turned out my concerns were unfounded.

First, on the beginng side, no problems. It is very smooth. I also have one stretch were the up grade flattens out twice. One at a bridge, and then begins again and continues until it hits the end. By the time I put the cork down, it was pretty smooth. I have had no problems with it. No uncoupleing orhanging up. I have been running on it now for 3 months (with some pretty big trains too) and havnet had an issue.

Your idea makes sense. But, to be hinest, not sure you would need to go through with the trouble. Just thought Id kick in my .02 cents.[:D]

Good luck.

John

[electrolove]

canazar:

Thanks for your input. Maybe I should not worry at all. I mean... I will use woodland scenics foam roadbed over the inclines. Maybe the foam roadbed will smooth out the incline at the top? Is there anyone else that did it that way?

[grandeman]

I think you'd be better off to cement the roadbed in it's naturally "suspended" location with hot glue (low temp for foam). This allows for very smooth transitions and can be sceniked with ballast/ground foam easily to hide the gaps. Also, as a side note, do the transitions on straight sections if at all possible to prevent running problems later on.

[Anonymous]

In response to your question as to how I smoothed the transitions, I just used some 120 grit sand paper, and took the bump out of the foam where the incline meets level terrain. I did not measure it, but I would estimate I only removed a couple of millimeters of material. It is very little.

I too used WS foam roadbed, which does very well at smoothing over small bumps. I was always told however, and am not always very good at following it, but that trackwork is in the prep work. I have found it is a lot less frustrating later to spend some time smoothing your subroadbed, then the foam or cork is easier to apply and the track just lays on.

Anyway, the main thing is to get that track down. Most of us spend all our time in the planning. Hope this helps.

[jacon12]

To you that are using the Woodland Scenics risers and or inclines, how did you or how do you plan to 'hide' the incline on the sides... i.e. hydrocal soaked paper, foam cut to fit the height of the riser or what?
Even after cork or other roadbed is laid on the incline there is space there that the ballast would fall through.
Jarrell

[grandeman]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

To you that are using the Woodland Scenics risers and or inclines, how did you or how do you plan to 'hide' the incline on the sides... i.e. hydrocal soaked paper, foam cut to fit the height of the riser or what?
Even after cork or other roadbed is laid on the incline there is space there that the ballast would fall through.
Jarrell

Jarrell, I'm not currently using the WS inclines but when I did, the sides were covered with plaster cloth and then sceniked. It worked well.

[2021]

I just finished a section using WS Inclines. Lightly sanded the transition point to eliminate that bump look, put cork roadbed down, and used plastercloth from the edge of the roadbed down to the base level. There were no openings for balast to fall thru. Works and looks great. Those inclines are the way to go.
Ron K.

[electrolove]

Thanks for all the help. Maybe it's the easiest way, to just use the sandpaper [:)]

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by grande man

QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

To you that are using the Woodland Scenics risers and or inclines, how did you or how do you plan to 'hide' the incline on the sides... i.e. hydrocal soaked paper, foam cut to fit the height of the riser or what?
Even after cork or other roadbed is laid on the incline there is space there that the ballast would fall through.
Jarrell

Jarrell, I'm not currently using the WS inclines but when I did, the sides were covered with plaster cloth and then sceniked. It worked well.

Thats what I thought. With the WS inclines, the way they're constructed I don't see any way BUT to use plaster cloth.
Thanks!
Jarrell

[Anonymous]

I don't think that you should use the inclines like this for two reasons:

1) It won't work. Sure, you'll be able to bend the incline into place easily, but I highly doubt that it will look good. I also highly doubt that your train will be able to pull cars up it, since you've put about a 4%-6% grade in the center of the incline. If you're using 2% inclines, I'm guessing that you're pulling a lot of cars. According to GreatestHobby.com, a 2% grade cuts a locomotive's power roughly in half. Every 1% increase after that cuts it in half again. So a 4% grade has an engine running at 1/8 normal power and a 6% grade has it running at 1/32 normal power. That's scary.

2) You don't need it. For smooth starts/stops, The Woodland Scenics Subterrain video recommends using Foam Tack Glue (thin and strong) to glue the paper-thin start down. To make a smooth end, either sand the top of the incline or fill in the gaps with Woodland Scenics Foam Putty and sand it.

[GMTRacing]

Electrolove, I had issues on both ends of the inclines because both bottoms were on curves and the top caused the locos to "loft" until i smoothed the top end with shims. Sanding seems a better way to smooth the transition at the top, and you need be careful and shim the bottom to suit. The gaps in the incline can be taped over and then plastered, or filled with latex caulk. on one long straight incline i glued on a piece of thin expanded foam I had fogged (light coats from 30 to 60 cm away) with enamel so it affected the surface finish, but did not totally melt it. This looks like a cheap and happy rock wall and you could score it as well to look like precast or jointed if you wish. J.R.