Ready for the Cookie Cutter Method...I think

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the help you've already offered – it has allowed me to figure out the proper heights of my two level HO layout...

So now I've completed my bottom level benchwork - basically a box frame with joists 16" OC, using 1x4 stock. I have 7/16" OSB and 1/2" Homasote ( 4' x 8' ) to use as sub-roadbed and roadbed, respectively. I've been mocking up possible layouts directly on the Homasote for some time and now I'm ready to use the "cookie cutter" method and get everything up on risers.

My questions are as follows:
1) On which material should I draw the final layout - OSB or Homasote?
2) Should I draw just the centerlines - I'm using mostly sectional track, or should I trace around the actual track pieces with them temporarily tacked down?
4) Should I cut out the OSB and Homasote separately, or should I glue them together first?
5) How stable, or "square", will the Homasote be when cut out? Seems like there will be a lot of play if I try to move it as one large unit.

I hope those aren't too many questions for one message thread.

Thanks again for helping out this beginner!

> Craig

[pcarrell]

craigdanielski,

1) Both to insure some level of accuracy. There is a way to cheat though. Cut out the sub-roadbed and then lay it on top of the roadbed and use a pen to transfer the outline to the raodbed. Now cut out the roadbed and just lay your tracks down the middle of roadbed paths.

2) Just do the centerlines and know that you need a little room on the sides for actual track.

3) You'll have to cut them out seperately because if you put in a grade then that may loosen the glue bond anyways. Also, and this is most important, you need to seal the homosote with something to protect it from humidity. Even if you don't have a humidity problem now, what happens if you move? Humidity does nasty things to homosote (cut off a small piece and wet it to see what I mean.

4) Homosote is pretty strong and as long as you are careful in handling it, you'll be fine. Just don't try to pick up a huge piece of it by using that single siding you cut out on one side as a handle!

Food for thought,

I used to use homosote too but I switched to 1/4 inch foam insulation board. It has several advantages and so far as I can tell, only one disadvantage. The disadvantage is that it is not perfectly level. It has slight waves in it. This is ok for those who use caulk to lay the track down with as you can kind of float the track over the imperfections on a layer of the caulk. The advantages are that, first off, it's cheap! $20 bought me a bundle at Lowes that should be enough for my 9 X 4 N scale triple decker layout! The second advantage is that, since it is only 1/4 inch thick, it takes up very little vertical room (this is important on a multi level layout). Thirdly, it acts as a sound deadener. Lastly, it is VERY easy to work with. I just lay down my sub-roadbed (I use 1/4 inch luan on 12 inch centers) and then take a piece of the foam that is roughly the same size as the sub-roadbed and throw some caulk on it, put the two together, and throw a book or two on it. Now go have dinner, watch a sitcom, whatever. Come back and pull out the trusty pocket knife (mines not very sharp) or a box cutter, whatever. Trim up the edges (takes about a 1/2 a second), and throw on some more caulk, smooth with a putty knife and lay down your track (make sure that the caulk does not squish up between the ties as this can not only interfere with the rolling stock but also be next to impossible to scenic). Throw the books back on top and go to bed. Next day, drill holes for your feeder wires and switch rods and so forth.

I've used this method to lay miles (OK, maybe I'm exagerating a little) of track in a single evening. Seriously though, it's really fast.

Hope some of this helps!

[pcarrell]

craigdanielski,

Do tell a little more about your layout plans.

Era?

Local?

Prototype?

Size?

Mainline radius?

Grades?

[Anonymous]

Good info pcarrell. Thanks. On to your questions. This is where my amateur status shows.

All the materials I'm using were my grandfathers. I "found" them again after about 25 years in the attic. My goal is to use all the HO track, inexpensive trains, and buildings we have already to make something that my son (4 yrs old), father-in-law and I can enjoy together. When my son is a bit older we'll upgrade engines, buildings and scenery. For now I'll keep it interesting by having lots of tunnels and bridges - something boys of all ages enjoy!!!

Our theme comes from Matthew 5:14, A city on a hill cannot be hidden. So our layout includes a city on a second level. The base level is the size of two full 4x8 sheets of OSB attached to form an "L" shape.

I'm working on a sketch of the track plan and scenery and I will post here when its done...if they allow pics to be posted.

[pcarrell]

Pics shouldn't be a problem.

That sounds like a good size city. Should be able to have plenty of bridges (both over and under) and tunnels with that setup!

You might keep in mind all those future upgrades as you build this thing. Making it easy to upgrade will increase your enjoyment and decrease your frustration at a later date. Know what I mean Vern?

Have you given any thought to DC vs DCC?

I got the Bachmann EZ Command ($65) to get the feet wet and my son (10 yrs old) had no problems running trains right off. Just pu***he button for the loco you want and away you go. It's cheap and easy to operate, even if it is a one trick pony. It makes wiring a LOT easier (no more block switches to figure out) and so now I drive trains instead of driving switches. Decoders are cheap too, about $15.

Just a thought.

Of course, free DC equipment is hard to beat!