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Modeling Water Question

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  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Loudonville, NY
  • 776 posts
Modeling Water Question
Posted by Benjamin Maggi on Sunday, June 5, 2005 12:26 PM
This is NOT a question about how to use Woodland Scenic's Realistic Water, as I have seen other topics about that and don't need to repeat it. However, I do have a related question. My waterway goes right to the edge of the layout. I have put up fascia boards made of masonite, and the waterway is completely insulated including the area where it meets up with the fascia. However, were I to pour the water into the river area it would spill out onto the floor. I was then going to just clamp another piece of masonite over the edge of the fascia until the water set then remove it, almost like a dam. But then I thought either the wood would become permanently attached to the layout OR when removing it I would shatter the water.

What should I do? Wrap the dam in something like waxed paper or clear plastic wrap? Coat it in pam cooking spray? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

Ben

Modeling the D&H in 1984: http://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • 106 posts
Posted by mgruber on Sunday, June 5, 2005 3:13 PM
I used Scotch masking tape as a dam. After the "water" cured, I just peeled it off.
  • Member since
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  • From: Eastern Massachusetts
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Posted by railroadyoshi on Sunday, June 5, 2005 4:12 PM
The scotch tape sounds like a good idea,
I remember in a book by Rick Selby that he used wax paper, but he used Enviro-Tex
Not sure if it'll work for WS RW.

Sorry i cant offer more help
Siddharth
Yoshi "Grammar? Whom Cares?" http://yfcorp.googlepages.com-Railfanning
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Dover, DE
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Posted by hminky on Sunday, June 5, 2005 4:52 PM
I used children's modeling clay . The rough surface at the layout edge prevented tape. This didn't work well. If you have a flat surface the tape would work. I have a web article about fun with Realistic Water at:

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/rushing_water/

Thank you if you visit
Harold
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
  • 1,317 posts
Posted by Seamonster on Sunday, June 5, 2005 5:42 PM
I've used 2 layers painters' masking tape, either the blue kind or the green kind. It sticks to everything around the end of the waterway and forms a good seal. Nothing much sticks to wax paper, but not being adhesive, it could leave a tiny crack along the edge somewhere.

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Loudonville, NY
  • 776 posts
Posted by Benjamin Maggi on Sunday, June 5, 2005 9:10 PM
Painter's tape it is, and I will check out that website Harold. Thanks all! Ben

Modeling the D&H in 1984: http://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Mississippi
  • 819 posts
Posted by ukguy on Sunday, June 5, 2005 9:33 PM
Or you could clamp the wood there as you originally thought but cover the side where the water would touch with vaseline. I havent tried it personally but it was one of the options offered to me when I posted a similar question.

Let us know how it works whichever way you go.

Karl.
  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: El Dorado Springs, MO
  • 1,519 posts
Posted by n2mopac on Monday, June 6, 2005 9:54 AM
I have always used a dam sealed with petroleum jelly. This seals the seams temporarily and nothing sticks to it.

Ron

Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado. 

Check out the TC&WRy on at https://www.facebook.com/TCWRy

Check out my MRR How-To YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/c/RonsTrainsNThings

 

  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Loudonville, NY
  • 776 posts
Posted by Benjamin Maggi on Monday, June 6, 2005 2:19 PM
man, there sure are tons of small bubbles. I poured it super slow and thin and didn't shake the bottle. There must be a hundred. I don't think I can pop them all. I might have to cover the top with clear accrylic to hide them.

Ben

Modeling the D&H in 1984: http://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Mississippi
  • 819 posts
Posted by ukguy on Monday, June 6, 2005 3:21 PM
The bubbles can be 'agitated' out by blowing a hairdryer gently across the surface I believe, but be careful not to get too close. Although I guess it has dried by now looking at the time of your post. Maybe do another thin pour when that one has set up. If you are using epoxy, which I dont think you are, reading between the lines in the first post a good tip is to microwave the two liquids for 20ish seconds before mixing. This will thin the 2 parts considerably making mixing/pouring easier and delay the cure time alowing more time to TRY and get rid of any bubbles.

Have fun & be safe.
Karl.

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