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Airbrush.. educate me please!

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Airbrush.. educate me please!
Posted by jacon12 on Monday, May 16, 2005 9:42 PM
I've never even picked up one and can't find that much information on them. For occassional hobby use, what should you look for? Single action? Double? What type compressors are needed? Do the higher priced ones do a lot better job? What accessories do you need? Is one like this any good?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1500
In model railroading, what are some of the uses for them other than putting graffiti on cars?[V]
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by jwar on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 12:32 AM
I havent seen or used the harbor air brush above, I kind of wonder how hard it is to get a $2.00 part (seal), Your not going to paint grafettie on box cars with it as I doubt it has that fine of a tip. The air can can get pricy real quick and if you paint much consider an air compressor, seen some for 50 to 80 bucks a wally world and auto parts stores.

Check out the Badger web site and other brands, also if you purchase a higher grade brush ( $40-100 ) check your local paint, art, and hobbie shops that have spare parts for the brand of your preference.

You will get many guys statiing Brand X is the only one, but most will agree that an internal mix gives a better spray then an external. The single action is almost like working a air hose air nozzel, just press down on the button and it paints, a dual action one presses down for air as like the single action, and slowley pull the lever back to spray paint, most modeling can be done with a med tip. Ive found that the fine tip gives fantastict shadow detail to rock crevices, painting rails, river bottoms and weathering bridges and of course weathering rolling stock.

My suggestion is find as much info on the web to read, second check your local area for parts avalability, then consider which brand. Email if you wish...John

John Warren's, Feather River Route WP and SP in HO
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Posted by ham99 on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 8:13 AM
I just bought a Paasche VL airbrush and D500 compressor. I had searched the forums for information, and it was the model most often recommended. The Paasche MIL seems to be a good choice, too, but hasn't been available as long as the VL. I have had one of the Badger 250's for years, but the canned air is expensive. And they tend to lose air if you don't use them regularly [like several months between use].
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Posted by rockythegoat on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 8:45 AM
jacon12 go the link below. it takes you to MR's sister mag, Finescale Modelor forum. they have a whole section on painting and airbrushing. they helped me out a lot, especially after I implanted my airbrush in the wall after wrecking a model. [:(!]

I replaced my AB with a Badger Anthem 155 and haven't looked back. Easy to clean, only used about a half bottle of paint learning to use it and have had nothing but good luck with it. [:)][:)]

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=18

Good luck to you!
President and CEO Lake Superior Railway & Navigation
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Posted by HAZMAT9 on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:16 AM
Well I've painted for a while now using both Badger and Paasche brushes and found the Paasche VL a very good choice in terms of ease of use and cleaning. The Badger Anthem is a good bru***oo, but I've had problems with it clogging more frequently.

You should have a descent compressor. A D500 is a good start however it's sometimes annoying listening to it continously run. I did pick up a 8 gallon compressor from Harbor Freight and added a moisture trap and it works great! I use only acrylics for airbrushing. It cleans easy with alcohol or water and easy to thin with a few drops of ammonia or you can use it straight w/o thinning. I use Testor's Model Master set which has increased its colors throughout the years. The best part is that the acrylics aren't toxic so you won't get those painful headaches especially when using toxic thinners.

As others mentioned, it's advisable to look up the differences between airbrushes. The ones' mentioned above are double action internal mix. I've also bought the cheaper Harbor Freight airbrushes which I've had a heck of a time working with. If your budget is limited, I'd still save up for a descent brush....you won't regret it as cheaper airbrushes sometimes apply paint unevenly, clog easy and sometimes leak from cheap fittings and you'll end up replacing it pretty quick. Steve
Steve "SP Lives On " (UP is just hiding their cars) 2007 Tank Car Specialist Graduate
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Posted by Adelie on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:30 AM
I've been using a Paasche VL for about 10 years with pretty good success (except when I do something stupid, like last night). I actually bought a second VL airbrush body several months ago, which is helpful when doing multiple colors on different projects in a single session. I've got the D500 and bought a moisture trap and regulator with a gauge, which I have found helpful. I've used Floquil, Polly S and Testors Model Master all with good luck.

A double-action will take some getting used to in order to control the paint flow. The worst thing that can happen during that process is that you wind up getting the results of a single-action. Once you develop a touch for the double action, it is pretty versatile.

Read up on them, and also get your hands on a book on general airbrush use and techniques. It will probably teach you some things and give you some ideas.

- Mark

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Posted by jacon12 on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 11:14 AM
I appreciate all the advice and I'll do more research on it. Something tells me it's probably like everything else, you get what you pay for. I had not though of cheaper fittings leaking and the moisture traps. I learned something!
Thanks,
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by Adelie on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 1:17 PM
Jarrell,

If you go the Paasche route, check out www.airbrushoutlet.com. I've ordered parts and such from him a couple of times and been very happy with the results.

- Mark

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Posted by ereimer on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 2:29 PM
any idea if this is a decent compressor to use with an airbrush ?

http://www.homedepot.ca/escalate/store/DetailPage?pls=hd_canada_gift&bc=hd_canada_gift&pc=943834&tab=desc&clist=018980323807:01898032388c:018980323a22

i sometimes need a light duty air nailer and i'm hoping i can buy just 1 compressor to use with both the nailer and an airbrush . i'm guessing i'll need a moisture trap when using it with an airbrush
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Posted by ham99 on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 2:49 PM
My Paasche D500 compressor arrived today. Airbrush not delivered yet. The compressor has a pressure regulator and moisture trap installed. No tank. Do these compressors run all the time they are plugged in? Or do they shut off when they reach pressure? If they run constantly, do they just divert the extra air pressure if I am spraying at 30 pounds? I have used canned air [Propel] in the past, so this is new to me.
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Posted by Adelie on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 2:55 PM
The D500 runs as long as it is plugged in. The excess pressure should bleed out of the pressure regulator valve.

- Mark

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Posted by jacon12 on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 2:59 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Adelie

Jarrell,

If you go the Paasche route, check out www.airbrushoutlet.com. I've ordered parts and such from him a couple of times and been very happy with the results.

Thanks Mark!
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by Adelie on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 3:15 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

Thanks Mark!
Jarrell


No problem Jarrell.

Always glad to pass along the names of vendors I am happy with.

- Mark

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Posted by jwar on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 3:55 PM
Ereimer

Looked at the air compressor and what you might look more closley at is the duty cycle. It doesnt state the percentage nor the amparage it draws. However it stated 300 continuous seconds, as my compressor is a 30% duty cycle it may be the same. Therefore after three air pump cycles the %&%$#%)^ things stops for about ten to fifteen minits before either a thermal overload or timing switch lets it start up again.

I would inspect personaly the Info plate to find the highest duty cycle and the max amperage, get the best bang for your buck....John
John Warren's, Feather River Route WP and SP in HO
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Posted by Bikerdad on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 6:57 PM
Ereimer,

For a model railroader, scale modeller, fantasy modeller, etc, that compressor will do the trick just fine. The only time you may bump up against the thermal overload is when you're spraying vast quantities of landscape. However, make sure that you listen to one run before you buy it. Most of the inexpensive compressors are oil-less designs. This is a good thing for spraying finishes, but they tend to be much noisier than oil lubricated compressors. With such a small tank, that lit'l guy may end up cycling during a spray. The sudden loud, obnoxious noise of a compressor kicking in can startle, which could be a bad thing.
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Posted by ereimer on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 8:40 PM
thanks jwar and bikerdad , i'll head over to home depot and see if they'll start one up for me . and i know what you mean by being startled by a compressor coming on , used a friends much larger compressor last summer for doing some nailing while renovating , jumping 3 feet while kneeling and holding a nail gun is not fun !
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Posted by ham99 on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:14 PM
Question for anyone with a Paasche D500 compressor. Is there any reason NOT to reverse the head on the air piston so the outlet hose points away from the unit instead of being right above the unit. I am asking because reversing it would allow the regulator/moisture trap to be vertical instead of horizontal. It seems to fit either way, so I have changed it from the direction it was when I got it.

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