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Putting the Metal to the Metal.

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  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Putting the Metal to the Metal.
Posted by SpaceMouse on Monday, May 9, 2005 8:03 AM
How do you do it? I was thinking Crazy Glue. Got one of those Woodland Scenics deatil kits at a show for two bucks and I'm ready to go.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    September 2002
  • 7,478 posts
Posted by ndbprr on Monday, May 9, 2005 8:37 AM
I'm not a big fan of superglue. I think it is higholy overrated. I'd use 5 minute epoxy so there is some time to do some adjusting if needed. That is what I used on a billboard over 20 years ago and it is still as solid as when I finished it.
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Monday, May 9, 2005 8:57 AM
Yup, epoxy, the two-part stuff. I also do not have much good to say about CA. It goes everywhere, and rarely does a satisfactory job with what you want to do.

When you are preparing the mating surfaces, try roughing them up a bit with sand paper. The bond will be really strong if you mix the epoxy well.
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Midtown Sacramento
  • 3,340 posts
Posted by Jetrock on Monday, May 9, 2005 4:34 PM
Epoxy is good for a really strong bond, but it's hard to use and not very easy to work with--you end up with huge globs of the stuff that you have to use up in a few minutes. The gel-style superglue is good for that sort of thing but it is also kind of brittle.

Personally I like to use Walthers Goo to glue together WS kits--it's flexible, fills gaps nicely, and excess glue can be easily removed without major hegira. Gel-style superglue is better for putting together the small detail bits, though. Epoxy is best for a place where you need a REALLY strong bond.
  • Member since
    September 2002
  • 7,478 posts
Posted by ndbprr on Monday, May 9, 2005 5:00 PM
You only wind up with huge globs if you put on huge globs. Just mix a drop or two at a time and apply it with the tip of a toothpick. Unlike CA if you do get some where it doesn't belong you can wipe it off before it sets.
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Los Angeles
  • 1,619 posts
Posted by West Coast S on Monday, May 9, 2005 5:20 PM
Permit me to dispell the quick mix life myth regarding epoxy. Two part epoxy can take up to 24hrs to set, despite the common term "five minute" You can improve the curing time to a certain extent by overuse of the hardner only.

ACC has never impressed me, I do a lot of kitbashing/parts casting and hands down, epoxy takes it every time. I'm excited about the new Polystyrene fillers that are now available and i'm sure i'll find uses for it as well.

Just my 2 centavios
SP the way it was in S scale
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Monday, May 9, 2005 10:07 PM
Chip;

Two part epoxy is the strongest. The smaller the amount you mix up, the slower it will cure. CA is the opposite.

That said, I would suggest that you pick up a few more WS kits, assemble one with epoxy - mixed in small amounts, as mentioned by a poster above. Assemble one with Goo, another with chaulk, and one with gel type CA. IMHO, Loctite 4500 is the best one out there right now.

Adhesives: it is impossible to make generalized statements about epoxies and CA's because new ones come out every year. Loctite 4500 is incredible; it cures twice as fast as Loctive 411 which sets up faster than most gel type CA, it is also twice as strong once cured, less brittle too. I got a sample direct a couple of months ago, by requesting it from thier website. In epoxies, it is still very hard to beat 3M's DP460; though it is very expensive.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California

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