Removeable track for access

[Blind Bruce]

My layout will be a 4X8 with a 3' section removed on the 8' side. For continuous running, I will need to span that 3' with a single track. I need some ideas on how to make it and wire it. How about hinging it on one side?
Regards, BB

[jkeaton]

Some questions spring immediately to mind:

How often do you need to remove the 3' span?
If you hinge it on one side, will it have room to swing out of the way?
Hinging it so it drops down is another option, and may help to keep at least the hinged end in alignment.

For wiring, if it is hinging, a generous (6") diameter loop of flexible stranded wire may be enough to provide electrical continuity. A plug-in system (using automobile trailer plugs and jacks, perhaps) would work if the whole span is removeable.

Will you be providing signaling and/or an automatic dead block just before the span, to avoid unintentional drops to the floor?

Jim

[Javern]

another idea for the electrical part is to have male pins on the underside of the lift out portion wired to the track and female pins on the layout wired to the main track. These not only carry the current for the track but act as locators aligning the lift out eachtime you place it into place. I know one person who uses rca type jacks for this purpose

[Blind Bruce]

Jkeaton, I will need to use the span every time I operate the RR. Hinge to be up/down rather than in/out. I have not thought far enough ahead for signalling, but the idea you propose to stop approaching trains is a good one. Thanks,
The pin idea is also doable.
Bruce in the Peg

[simon1966]

Bruce, I have a lift out section about 2 feet long that has to be removed every time I enter the train room. My layout is around the walls. I have had this section for about a year now, and have noticed some seasonal alignment problems due to very slight shifts in the wooden structure. Based on an idea from a MRR mag, I use Atlas rerailer tracks cut in half on each end of the section and they do seem to help. My layout is DCC and I run the power bus thru a spst switch to a phono plug. When I insert the section I have to plug it in on both ends and switch the switch. I wired it in such a way that when the section is out and the switches closed, there is a 24" dead section of track either side of the liftout. I did not want me or my kids to accidentally dump a locomotive into the valley!

[Jacktal]

Ok...here are my two cents...for what they're worthed.First,I don't recommend a fully removable section...have one end hinged and for better results,have your hinges as far apart as can be.Hinges tend to develop looseness with time and usage and this could affect your track alignment.

Secondly,use plywood as it is less prone to temperature and humidity changes.For more sturdiness,use both screws and glue for assembly.Do not use a single piece of ply as a lift section as it will likely warp with time if it's not when new so you'll need some bracing to keep it "honest".

Thirdly,unless you are a very bulky fellow,you don't need a full three feet access.24 in. or maybe 18 in. can do the job so you could have a much smaller movable section to deal with,the other length being part of your benchwork.The smaller the movable section,the lesser any distortion may affect your track alignments.

Depending on your needs and possibilities,it will open either upwards or sideways.If upwards,you will have to design some sort of "locked up" device so that it doesn't fall backwards on the scenery or just as bad,slam shut violently which would be quite destructive.You would also have to preserve some clearance over the said scenery.If it opens sideways,you then have the possibility of having a hinged brace mounted to your workbench which would make it quite sturdy.Just make sure your hinge pins are perfectly aligned so that you movable section doesn't bind.

[lesterperry]

I use a 4 foot steel section to take care of expantion and contraction. I also hinged it on one end, useing 2 hinges with center pin set back about 1 inch onto the stationary bench. This allows a close clearance on the rail ends. I also used sectional track at the ends of the lift out section and also on the solid stationary bench. This keeps the slideing rail in flex track under control.( It will slide out and hit the lift out section causeing a major malfunction when lowering the lift out section) Also the track on the each end of lift out should overhang about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. You will need guides for it to lower into. I used 2 small steel L brackets one on each side. The track MUST be so;idly attached to ends of lift out and bench to assure alignment. Mine works flawlessly. I have had many open houses for several years and only problem is people are afraid to lift it but I insist as ducking under can cause a lateral hit which could but has not as of now cause a miss align ment. One more thing, I put micro switchs under lifting end to kill track when lifted to avoid obvious accedent. But not on the hinge end as the train would run into lifted section and stop avoiding fallin to the floor.