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woodland scenics track bed

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  • Member since
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woodland scenics track bed
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 28, 2005 3:35 PM
hey!!! i have used cork roadbed on my previous layout and i was wondering if i should give track bed a try. my friend has used it and didnt like it but if any of you have any information it will help lots...thankyou for all the help!!!
  • Member since
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  • From: Mississippi
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Posted by ukguy on Monday, March 28, 2005 4:15 PM
I used it and at the time I wasnt too impressed, however I used track pins, I have since used a portion of it with caulk as an adhesive for the roadbed and track and it went down really well.Next time I'll caulk it all.
The roadbed itself ballasted well and gave a nice looking profile to the ballast. It followed track curves well and did cut down on sound vibration (more so before I ballasted).
Cork/Foam I guess it comes to personal choice but I didnt have any major problems with the WS stuff. Search the forums there is plenty of info I found.
Have fun & be safe
Karl.
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Monday, March 28, 2005 4:40 PM
I use the WS foam and i love the stuff, won;t go back to cork. I use caulk to adhere the track bed to the table (extruded foam), and to adhere the track to the foam roadbed. Super easy to use, and the 24' rolls come in REAL handy for those long mainline runs, a lot less piecing together and fewer joints all adds up to a smoother roadbed.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 28, 2005 5:18 PM
thankyou everybody i think ill go for it!!!
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 28, 2005 5:54 PM
do not use it!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Monday, March 28, 2005 9:02 PM
Someone needs to secure access to their computer, or keep their children away while unattended.

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
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  • From: Carmichael, CA
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Posted by twhite on Monday, March 28, 2005 10:41 PM
I built my latest layout with WS trackbed and I'm really pleased at the result. One thing, though, it's kinda springy, even when it's ballasted, so I'd make sure your track connections are soldered, because sooner or later with use, your track connectors will start coming loose. Other than that, it's a wonderful sound-deadener. I think you'll like it.
Tom[:D]
PS: Red Sox, go to your room!
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 30, 2005 5:07 PM
good like on the layout rrinker cool website.
  • Member since
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  • From: Aurora, Ontario
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Posted by northern_blues on Wednesday, March 30, 2005 5:28 PM
What is the WS roadbed made from? A dense foam or foam rubber? I'm assuming it shapes and curves well and it cuts easily. Can you sand it?

I'm at the purchasing stage for trackbed now. Cork is on sale at my LHS. However, they do carry WS stuff. I have completely gone with extruded foam as a layout surface.

What type of caulk can you use?

-Dave
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Wednesday, March 30, 2005 5:58 PM
It's a soft foam sort of material, exactly what I don't know. But it is very flexible and easy to curve, I've gone down to about 22" radius without slitting it - although it is pre-scored to slit down the middle if you need to.
I use latex caulk, I happen to have the clear kind - it come sout white but dries clear,. Once dry you don't see it - plus you cna tell when it's dry as the white disappears. I got mine at Home Depot, I believe the brand is Poly Seam Seal or something like that. DAP makes some too. Use a VERY thin bead - cut a 1/8 or smaller hole in the nozzle. Spready put with a putty knife or similar took. It's tacky right away, so other than on sharp curves and at the ends of a piece, I don;t have to even fasten the roadbed down until the caulk dries. You cna still move it for 0-15 minutes if needed. After it dries completely, you can peel it up with the putty knife if you change your mind. I did that to remove a couple of sidings I changed my mind about.
I use the same technique to glue down the flex track to the roadbed. Spread a thin bead, spready with the putty knife, lay the track. Here I use push pins to keep it in place until the caulk dries.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 31, 2005 6:13 PM
i switched to ws foam roadbed on my new layout and what a difference!!!....easy to use....looks good....i used the woodland scenics foam tack glue to adhere it to my sub-roadbed.....worked great and held good...on a side note....we were doing some adding on to my local club layout and i had grabbed some old cork that was laying around.....lets just say it didn't stay in one piece!!!...crumbled in my hands.....and yes....the room is climate controled so everything stays well maintained.....my vote is for foam!!!!
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Posted by RMax1 on Friday, April 1, 2005 8:05 AM
The stuff is great! It is flexible and easier to work with than cork.. From what I have seen no dry out problems. The rolls of material are fantastic for long runs but the short 2 ft length of singles is strange at first.

RMax1
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: CN Seymour Industrial spur
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Posted by Dayliner on Friday, April 1, 2005 11:57 PM
I've used cork on part of my layout, and WS foam on the rest. My preference is definitely for WS foam. The cork tends to get hard and brittle with age, diminishing its sound-deadening properties. The foam is easy to lay (with caulk) and easy to lift (if you have to). I'm a convert!
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, April 2, 2005 12:20 AM
how thick is the stuff,I,m looking for a low profile,(branchline), like using n stuff under ho track
  • Member since
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  • From: CN Seymour Industrial spur
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Posted by Dayliner on Saturday, April 2, 2005 12:23 AM
I'm working with N, my roadbed is 1/8" thick; would probably be perfect for a light HO branchline.
  • Member since
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  • From: Christchurch New Zealand
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Posted by NZRMac on Saturday, April 2, 2005 3:42 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by northern_blues
I'm assuming it shapes and curves well and it cuts easily. Can you sand it?

-Dave


It cuts very easily with a craft knife (box cutter?) I haven't tried sanding it but it melts real easy, soldering iron oops!!


I'm not sure why, but the stuff I get at my LHS comes in different widths mayby 1/4 inch difference. HO scale?? It's all supposed to be the same.


Ken.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, April 2, 2005 8:06 AM
thankyou everybody the stuff sounds great im going to buy some and see how i like it

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