Round that corner!

[jacon12]

When building benchwork, how in the world do people get those beautifully rounded corners I see in Model Railroader magazine? Are they bending the 1x4 wood frame or using smaller pieces and cutting it to curve or what?
Jacon

[Blind Bruce]

I had a friend with a band saw cut a two X four into i/8 or 3/16 pieces. The pieces were then coated with glue and bent to the desired radius and allowed to dry. He did this one piece at a time and when the desired thickness was obtained, (3/4") he ran it thru his planer to give a smooth edge. This is quite a complicated process, but we are both woodworkers and looked at it as a challenge. The results are fabulous!
BB

[jacon12]

BB, you gave me an good idea when you said we are both woodworkers. I have a friend that is great at woodworking and has every tool known to man. I see a phone call coming on!
Thanks,
Jacon

[Anonymous]

Often a layout fascia or profile board is Masonite or some other thin, bendable material. Bending it is quite easy.

Bending a 1x4 board is much more difficult. It often involves a series of kerfs or closely spaced cuts made on the reverse.

Wayne

[scole100]

I have rounded corners on my layout. I did it with masonite. If you have a good frame behind it, the masonite will bend easily and the frame will keep it plenty strong.

[Anonymous]

I used Masonite that I had cut length ways at Home Depot to the desired width. I think it was 1/8 inch thick and it bends quite easily.

[2021]

A friend of mine used a styrene sheet of plastic. He bought a 4'x8' sheet (Ithink it was 20 mm) at a local supply house (look up plastic sheathing in the phone book). It took a natural bend around the corner and looks real good. You might want to look into this.
Ron K.

[johncolley]

Here's another one for a great looking Fascia board. I get door skins (approx. 1/8") at Home Depot/ Lowes etc. rip it into 6" wide strips full length. lay it outside either in the rain or wet with a hose. It bends beautifully down to about 12" radius. I use yellow carpenter's glue or liquid nails, and clamp it on the straight sectionswith scrap pads where the clamps are so you don't mar the surface. Also but the joints with a backing strip 9"-12" long. Let it dry for a week, then you can finish it any way you want, I use flat or semi-gloss latex hunter green, but beige or sand would probably match the scenery ground.

[jacon12]

Thanks everybody for the replies. What I'm puzzled about is..... lets say you have a 4x4 foot table made of 1x4's (under frame) and plywood top. What do you do, make the 1x4 frame under the plywood 3x3 feet so that you can then cut the plywood top in a rounded fashion?
Jacon

[Anonymous]

Jacon, what I have done if I understand your question is this: I have a peninsula approximately 2' x 8' long made from 1x4 material. I ended up screwing nailing the fasica to the 1 x 4 framing and when I went around the end, you end up with a halfmoon shaped open area with nothing in it. I then placed a half moon shaped piece of foam board in the open area after placing a few pieces of 1 x 4 support wood below it. The entire length is then a little longer than 8' since the end is rounded. I'm not sure if this answers you question or not. In the past I have always cut a piece of foam board to put in the area where the fasia is gapped.

Larry

[Anonymous]

jacon, I forgot to mention that I have 2" foamboard glued onto the top of this peninsula. The masonite facia is about 7 inches wide by eight feet long. The facia covers the 1x 4 framing and the exposed side of the foamboard and rises about a 3/8 " above the foam board so I can add scenery material to the edge of the masonite. Sorry for the confusion.

[Anonymous]

jacon: I've never built one but with my understanding with what you are asking, and my knowledge, I would use a router to cut the curves that you would glue the facia to. A good router can do amazing things!

As far as the benchwork it's self, I would decide where you want /need the curves, cut the top boardds with the router so you get it looking the way you want, then build your feet and supports around that leaving room for wires/motors/what ever else you need on the bottom of the layout out of sight.

I've never built a layout (Still trying to raise money, and find a place to do it) but when I do if I build one with curves that's what I would do...

[Anonymous]

jacon, a good manual for building benchwork is the Model Railroader Basic Benchwork book. I shows precisely how square looking benchwork can be curved by using the masonite as I previously explained.

[Anonymous]

Jason,
Unless you are not using the corners, just run the facia from corner to corner. Curves may look good but for a 4x4 layout, I'd use the corners for a yard and a couple of industries so I have a place to switch cars around. You can cut the 1/8" masonite to match any hills and valleys on the layout with a sabre saw. Then attach it to the 1x4's under the plywood top. Paint it to blend in with your scenery.

[Bikerdad]

Another possibility is to use a specialty sheet goods product that is essentially hardboard (aka Masonite) with grooves already cut into it to enhance bendability. The grooves run either lengthwise or across the 4x8 sheets, and this hardboard is 1/4" thick, grooved 1/8". The resulting product is stronger and more durable than 1/8" hardboard, but much easier to bend than 1/4". You'll need to go to a dedicated sheet goods supplier (the sort that cabinet shops use) to find this, it won't be at Home Depot, Lowes, or even a common lumberyard.