Stranded or Solid?

[Anonymous]

I was wondering whats the difference in Stranded Vs. Solid wire performence wise? Whats the difference? Is one better than the other or should I just go with the cheapest I can find?

[Bikerdad]

For the main power bus, it doesn't make much difference. Stranded is usually more flexible, but either works just fine.

For the power drops, most folks prefer solid because it will take and hold the little L bend where the wire is soldered to the rail or rail joiner, whereas the stranded frequently wants to fan out.

Both work, solid is generally a little easier to work with in our application.

[Anonymous]

oh ok thanks

[tstage]

I have also heard others mention that the stranded wire is better for the track feeders because it will handle the expansion and contraction of the track better than the solid, since it contains it's own built in "strain relief".

Tom

[howmus]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Metallicarocks28

I was wondering whats the difference in Stranded Vs. Solid wire performence wise? Whats the difference? Is one better than the other or should I just go with the cheapest I can find?

It's mostly a matter of preference. I use both. Often, it boils down to what I have in stock at the time.

[cheese3]

I like to use solid because when i strip the stranded i always manage to take off a few strands plus the solid is easier for me to shape and work with (it holds its shape). I find the stranded always seems to come untwisted where as solid you do not have to worry about it!!![8D][:D][oX)]

[rrinker]

The key to stripping wire is a GOOD stripper, I have an Ideal I got at Home Depot. It wasn;t cheap. And it's not that cheap junky thing they give away witht he "cold heat" soldering iron, either. This is a heavy metal tool, not plastic.
It can even strip in the middle of a piece of wire - well, more like peel back. Ths is how I solder feeders to my bus wires. Use the tool to peel back a short section of bus wire insulation, wrap the stripped end of the feeder around it, solder, and then apply some liquid electrical tape (stinky, but handy - and it won't peel loose like electrical tape often does). The attachment points for the two rails are offset as an additional safeguard.
My preference is for stranded for the bus, because pulling it through the benchwork is hard enough, especially around corners. #12 solid is VERY stiff. For feeders I bought a reel of thermostat wire at home depot, #20 solid.

--Randy

[fosrad]

Stranded can carry more current for a given awg. Good wire strippers are essential for small gage wire. Stranded is more flexible, than solid. After twisting the strands together, tinning the ends allows you bend the "L" or "7" configuration for the feeders, which keeps the shape during soldering.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Metallicarocks28

I was wondering whats the difference in Stranded Vs. Solid wire performence wise? Whats the difference? Is one better than the other or should I just go with the cheapest I can find?

The most important thing is use the correct gauge for the power requirements. Also the longer the wire run, the larger the wire needs to be to maintain its load capacity.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gsetter
The most important thing is use the correct gauge for the power requirements. Also the longer the wire run, the larger the wire needs to be to maintain its load capacity.

Where would you find what gauge you would need for what length?

[howmus]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Metallicarocks28

QUOTE: Originally posted by gsetter
The most important thing is use the correct gauge for the power requirements. Also the longer the wire run, the larger the wire needs to be to maintain its load capacity.

Where would you find what gauge you would need for what length?

Alan Gartner has a lot of information on wiring and recomended wire sizes here:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#a26

If you go through his site, he has a wealth of information on how to wire for DCC. I would recomend that you use the recommendations on wire size even if you are wiring for DC so that if (or should I say When) you go to DCC you will be already in a good position to convert the layout. The only thing I would warn about is his light bulb suggestion as I have heard about melted locos and fires being caused by this particular suggestion.