Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

superelevation

1142 views
4 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • 210 posts
superelevation
Posted by tigerstripe on Thursday, February 10, 2005 8:54 PM
I am looking for any advice on superelevating HO track. Presently I am using leftover ties under the outside rail of code 100 track. I also made approach ramps from sanded down strips of wood to provide a smoother contour.
My problem is at any speed slower than warp factor 6 the engines looks fine but all the cars seem to roll and tilt A LOT. I know the whole purpose is to make the train "lean" into the curve, but it just doesn't look right.
I am thinking it is to high? or is this not effective for smaller radius curves.
my min radius is 27"
Also tried tightening the screws that hold trucks on till they barely move, but that doesn't seem to help either.
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Michigan
  • 227 posts
Posted by SteelMonsters on Thursday, February 10, 2005 9:14 PM
.02" will give you 1.8% bank and .04" will give you nearly 3.6% bank.

This is a rail to rail estimate, If the length. If you raise one end of the tie and the other end is setting on the roadbed, then the the grades will be less for the given values. To get the prototypical superelevation of 2-4% in this configuration, you will need approximently .03 - .05" difference in the ends of the ties.
-Marc
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Thursday, February 10, 2005 10:31 PM
I bought some scale 2x4 lumber (HO scale) and cut this into short pieces that I used for superelevation. A scale 2" superelevation may not be exactly accurate, but it give the appearance I am looking for without causing any operation problems - I can jackrabbit start a 20+ car train forwards and backward wrapped around my curves with no problems.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Northeast Houston
  • 576 posts
Posted by mcouvillion on Friday, February 11, 2005 9:32 AM
tigerstripe,

I used 1/4" strips of masking tape under the outside rail when I put in superelevation on our club layout. It ended up being 2 layers of tape from the tangent track 12 " before the spiral, 4 layers of tape from the beginning of the transition spiral, and 7 layers of tape from the beginning of the arc of the curve to the same location at the other end of the curve. The effect is subtle but noticable. Cut the tape with a steel rule guide on a piece of plate glass. Its quick, easy, and effective.

Mark C.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • 785 posts
Posted by Leon Silverman on Friday, February 11, 2005 1:09 PM
I seem to recall recommendations for replacing the .025" throw rods on the Tortoise switch machines with .035" wire rods. Buying this wire in bulk to place under the outside rail should give just about the right elevation if you want between .03 and .05". This should be equivalent to 15 gauge music wire or about 20 gauge steel wire guage.

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!