Correct, I think BN called them a GP9r for rebuilt as 1410 used to be a GN high hood unit if memory serves me right. But the unit was designated a GP10 by the locomotive reseller if that same memory is correct. I think BN kind of cloned the Padauch style with 4 exhaust stacks, the "ox yoke" air intakes and so forth. They did the rebuilds in house as well. I know the IC ones lack the anticlimber on the front that BN installed along with a few other differances for those that really pick out that type of stuff. The only brass GP9r was a short run by Oriental Limited/Samhongsa years ago. I know were one is that needs stripped and repainted, but not at the sellers asking pricse. If the model I have was a GP18, ie no turbo, then it would get put in the yellowjacket scheme. But its a GP20 and not a GP18. Only brass 18's are older coffee grinder ones from Hallmark that I am aware of. I do know where a pair of the Proto2K versions are though. I hope to start on the paint work as soon as I pick up some fresh green paint. Here is a pic of 1410 on the local shortline, around 1990ish. The trailing unit is in the shortlines colors and is an ex-MKT unit The look of 1410 is what I am shooting for with the GP20. If OMI had done a unit like 1410, I would buy the first one I found. Mike
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
I would definitely call that cascade green unit a gp10, that ”ox yoke” air intake is a memorable feature of those IC rebuilds. I wonder if BN had IC rebuild this loco, I know other railroads including Conrail did...
Did you know Intermountain made a gp10 a few years age, with a few detail changes you could make a good model of the loco above.
If you use the gp20 (you should, it’s a great model) it would be plausible, short line ran/run anything. It would be better if you are freelancing though, a gp20 really doesn’t resemble a gp10 much.
Regards, Isaac
I model my railroad and you model yours! I model my way and you model yours!
Oh yea, the Horst air filter. Some of the MILW locos had those.
Mike.
My You Tube
BN did the rebuilds in thier own shops. The GP20 was a good price and I prefer brass locomotives, just a personal preferance. She makes a nice shortline engine. And, back then the turbo charged GP20 would have been less desirable to shortlines that didnt want the turbocharger maintance. So it would have been cheaper to buy as it would be mostly unwanted engine compared to GP7/9s or GP38's. I may have to break down and go DCC just so I can stick TCS Wow sound in her. I ordered a new lighting circuit from Richmond Controls to handle lighting duties for now. My older version of his circuit that came from a train show has only headlights in one direction and the beacon malfunctions at switching speeds as the circuits he builds are designed with each model in mind in relation to the voltage draw. A higher amp drawing model, such as an Athearn blue box diesel, would be better suited to this older circuit. The new circuit will give me directional lights in both directions and Prime beacon in both directions. Right now it takes me about 20min to switch out what industries I have in place. And that just setting in empties with nothing to pull out. With loads to pull, I am guessing 30-40 min to switch out everything thats there now. And I have more planned in due time.
I think you might be thinking I am modeling the local shortline, I am not, but I am drawing inspiration from it and others that have taken over weed grown tracks to service local elevators and feedmills. Single unit operation, a few grain hoppers, fertilizer cars and tank cars. 10-15mph track speeds ect. I do plan to make the tracks look overgrown/weedy in time. Mike the Aspie
Were it my 9'x9' room, I'd re-hang the entry door to swing out, and put an accordian-type collapsable door on the closet.
The layout would be either an around-the-room type, with lift-outs at both doors, or a point-to-point version, running around the room, from one side of the entry door, around the room to the other side, with a lift-out for only the closet.This would allow you at least 30" radius curves at the corners of the room, which should be adequate for your larger locomotives.For the around-the-room version, you could angle the layout where it passes the entry door, making part of the curve on one side of the opening, the remainer on the other, with the lift-out more-or-less straight.Both of the lift-outs on my layout are straight, but deep enough to accommodate the curved track which is on them...
Wayne
Looks good Wayne. I thought about remounting the door to the hallway to open outward but got a look and a firm no from my wife. So I made do with what space I have. It works well for me now. The layout is high enough that its an easy duck under to pop up in the access area to put stuff up on the shelves. Mike