Track ideas to fit space

[Anonymous]

Looking for ideas on layout of HO track. I have a J shape space where the top of the J is 4x5 the long leg of J is 2x24 feet and then the bottom of the J where it heads back up is 4x13. I'd like to model Steam some diesel so early 1950's. I would free lance the scenery with mountains, town, industry, etc. in areas where they "fit". More interested in continuous running than operational and switching, etc. I have a dual Powerpak and would like to be able to run 3 trains at once without a lot of manual operations. Do not want a completely flat layout as I 'd think it would be a bit boring. Looking for track configurations, the books out there are not a lot of help when planning to a specific space. Also what's the best way to power ? Should I have one mainline dedicated to one side of the powerpack or is there a better way to manage the power to the track in what I'm trying to do. Still think I need it bigger with my "trackitis" mentality ! Help

[Jetrock]

Wow, that sounds like a nice space! The main issue is that there is not enough room to make a loop in 2 feet of width--is there a way to make a "bulge" where your train can turn around at the far end of that 2x24 foot long leg?

It sounds like you want a "folded dog-bone" style of track plan: a loop at either end, with either a two-direction double-track mainline or two separated single-track lines running through the skinny end of the dog-bone. You could either put the other end of the dog-bone on the other leg of the J and run the mainline around the bottom of the J, or put the back end of the loop on the other end of the long leg and include a branch line out to the short leg.

Running 3 trains at the same time would be a challenge unless you change to DCC--a dual powerpack means you can control two trains at once.

If you want two trains running that you can just sit and watch, you could build two entirely separate loops on two different levels--maybe a high one in the back and a lower one in the front--with connections between them. Having four mainlines in that two-foot space would be a bit cramped, though.

Another option would be two separate loops--as mentioned above, a main loop on the long leg of the J, and a smaller loop on the short leg, with an "interchange" at the base of the J. This would give you a place to run big long trains (on the long leg) and then connect with a small local (on the short leg.) Each could start pretty much as a simple loop, with a passing track or two, and then later on if you decide you want to add more operations you can throw in some spurs and yards.

24 feet is a pretty good chunk of space for a mainline run--you could include multiple scenic vignettes in such a length, and fairly dramatic scenery, even if it's only 2 feet deep.

One suggestion I can pass along is to get a pad of graph paper and start drawing out ideas! One trick I use to save time is to draw out a plan of the layout room on graph paper, then photocopy that page so I don't have to draw the room dimensions every time I want to start fresh. Draw, draw, draw until you find a plan you like! Then play around with perspective views, draw in elevations and scenic features, buildings, etcetera.

Books on track plans can provide ideas, but I have yet to ever build a track plan from a book or published plan. I have, however, lifted many ideas from published plans...

[Anonymous]

I second the buldges idea. I'm building a 10' x 10' L shelf based "N" scale layout. The main stretch is only 24" deep but on each end I build a 32" buldge. This allowed me to turn the trains around at the ends for continous run. I also second the graph paper idea. It took me over a month to settle down on an idea. I have multi levels using woodland scenics risers and grades. while it would have been much easier to keep everything on one level it's alot more interesting to have multi-level. My train when finished will allow 2 continous run trains plus switching in the yard and the coal mine spurs. I'll try to post a picture later. On my way to church and family. One other thought. I used Kato unitrack. In HO you can choose from several MFG of similar track. This allowed me to try an idea ansd see it in action while not commiting to nailing down or soldering together track. What works on paper doesn't always work so well in the real world. Dave