Hi all,
I'm starting to plan/build a layout based on the N scale switching layout here: http://www.layoutvision.com/gallery/id52.html I don't really plan on any changes except to maybe add a turnout or passing track for future expansion.
Essentially, I'm trying to figure out at what point do decisions need to be made? For example wiring: I'm seriously considering going DCC -- something I never tried with my previous roundy-rounds -- and I don't know how much planning I need to do for that before building benchwork and laying track.
In some ways I'm starting totally from scratch (I have no track, old/broken structures, and really old, definitely *not* DCC locos) so the financial outlay has to happen in installments. So I don't want to make decisions that mess me up later.
Any help/suggestions (even/especially books recommendations) would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
-matthew
One of our forum members runs that website so you came to the right place.
I can't think of any reason the benchwork needs to be modified for DCC. Wiring is different and DCC is more demanding that DC in terms of signal quality. That is mostly adequate wire gauge and feeder than high falutin electrical engineering.
Programing engines is not intuitive and I definietly recommend some reading.
I have this
and this
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddy One of our forum members runs that website so you came to the right place. I can't think of any reason the benchwork needs to be modified for DCC. Wiring is different and DCC is more demanding that DC in terms of signal quality. That is mostly adequate wire gauge and feeder than high falutin electrical engineering. Programing engines is not intuitive and I definietly recommend some reading. I have this and this
Thanks! I can wire it up and use a DC power pack with loco until I get a DCC system, right?
I'm glad that you found that layout useful as inspiration. Since there are three different layouts in that article, I'm not sure which you are working with, but it doesn't really matter in terms of steps.
As noted, there is not really a difference in starting out for DCC or DC. Generally, folks use more wire drops (feeders) for DCC, so you just need to have that in mind. For that reason, if you are planning to build the hollow-core-door (HCD) sized version, I'd personally build benchwork from plywood for the layout rather than use an actual hollow-core door, just because it's a little fussier to put drops through the HCD.
DCC is certainly an easier way to operate multiple engines simultaneously and independently than DC, but you can start with DC and migrate later with no problem (again, if you build it with enough wire drops in the first place).
The Howard Terminal was a neat little prototype and (I think) will build into a fun layout. Good luck!
Byron
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
-matthew I can wire it up and use a DC power pack with loco until I get a DCC system, right?
Yes. Think of it as DC controls the track and DCC controls the engine. Blocks are not necessary in DCC. Others may have a different opinion, but I think either the Digitrax or NCE starter DCC sets would suit your needs. Off the top of my head both are +/- $150. Cheaper used Ebay DC power packs are easy to find but if you want to try sound, then DCC is the way to go. Buy once cry once.
That said, not everyone likes sound. Listening to a lot of youtube vids, where they blow the horn and ring the bell constantly and you will know why.
Converting a DC to DCC loco yourself requires soldering skills and a steady hand. N-scale is smaller and I can't speak to that. Some Factoryt DCC-sound loco's use a low end decoder and people are unhappy that powering their layout automatically starts the sounds or the the sounds are not the quality they expected. Do your research and ask if you don't know.
cuyama I'm glad that you found that layout useful as inspiration. Since there are three different layouts in that article, I'm not sure which you are working with, but it doesn't really matter in terms of steps. As noted, there is not really a difference in starting out for DCC or DC. Generally, folks use more wire drops (feeders) for DCC, so you just need to have that in mind. For that reason, if you are planning to build the hollow-core-door (HCD) sized version, I'd personally build benchwork from plywood for the layout rather than use an actual hollow-core door, just because it's a little fussier to put drops through the HCD. DCC is certainly an easier way to operate multiple engines simultaneously and independently than DC, but you can start with DC and migrate later with no problem (again, if you build it with enough wire drops in the first place). The Howard Terminal was a neat little prototype and (I think) will build into a fun layout. Good luck! Byron
Thanks for making the plans available!
I'm going to build the L-shaped version of the plan. I don't think DCC is really necessary for the layout but as I mentioned I am planning to expand it with some kind of passing track.
Just plan ahead for dcc with plenty of feeders and you will be fine for future dcc. As for dc running your probably going to want to divide the layout into blocks but again that will be fine for converting to dcc. I would definitely suggest getting a bit advanced with the bench work construction and try to avoid solid top.
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
wickman Just plan ahead for dcc with plenty of feeders and you will be fine for future dcc. As for dc running your probably going to want to divide the layout into blocks but again that will be fine for converting to dcc. I would definitely suggest getting a bit advanced with the bench work construction and try to avoid solid top.
"Solid top"? Do you mean plywood? I am planning on an open grid with plywood and pink foam board on top. Since it's a switching/yard layout, it'll all be at the same level.
-matthew wickman Just plan ahead for dcc with plenty of feeders and you will be fine for future dcc. As for dc running your probably going to want to divide the layout into blocks but again that will be fine for converting to dcc. I would definitely suggest getting a bit advanced with the bench work construction and try to avoid solid top. "Solid top"? Do you mean plywood? I am planning on an open grid with plywood and pink foam board on top. Since it's a switching/yard layout, it'll all be at the same level.
That should work out fine.
-matthewDo you mean plywood? I am planning on an open grid with plywood and pink foam board on top.
Personally, I don't think that one needs both plywood and foam. Again, dropping feeder wires through a plywood/foam sandwich is more trouble than plywood (or foam) alone.
An alternative with foam is to chisel out paths through the foam for the wires to run to the edge of the layout and then down. Some friends and clients have done this and it works fine, but it seems like more work to me than a simple hole through plywood subroadbed.
But lots of different methods work for benchwork and it's easy to get bogged down unnecessarily with alternatives -- building is always better than cogitating!
cuyama -matthew Do you mean plywood? I am planning on an open grid with plywood and pink foam board on top. Personally, I don't think that one needs both plywood and foam. Again, dropping feeder wires through a plywood/foam sandwich is more trouble than plywood (or foam) alone. An alternative with foam is to chisel out paths through the foam for the wires to run to the edge of the layout and then down. Some friends and clients have done this and it works fine, but it seems like more work to me than a simple hole through plywood subroadbed. But lots of different methods work for benchwork and it's easy to get bogged down unnecessarily with alternatives -- building is always better than cogitating!
-matthew Do you mean plywood? I am planning on an open grid with plywood and pink foam board on top.
My thinking is that it will be easier to do the pier be simply cutting out the foam board down to the ply wood. I'm not good enough with wood to have the bench work slightly lower for the water as everything else.
For water level I screw 1/2 plywood ( size of water body needed )to top of grid benchwork then raise everything else up accordingly.