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Dimensions for HO rails

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  • Member since
    February 2016
  • 2 posts
Dimensions for HO rails
Posted by Markdd on Saturday, February 20, 2016 4:10 PM

Not the usual question about Code 100 vs 83.  I've got some track from secondary sources (mostly used), but when I measure it, it's closer to .090 tall.  Is it tall Code 83 or short Code 100?

Thanks

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Northern CA Bay Area
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Posted by cuyama on Monday, February 22, 2016 12:38 PM

Markdd
I've got some track from secondary sources (mostly used), but when I measure it, it's closer to .090 tall.  Is it tall Code 83 or short Code 100?

Could be either (probably more likely nominal Code 100).

If your concern is getting it to mate with other pieces of track, the tie height and rail profile (shape) will likely be more important. Expect to do some shimming of the track and filing of the rails where you connect track from different manufacturers.

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your layout.

  • Member since
    February 2016
  • 2 posts
Posted by Markdd on Monday, February 22, 2016 2:45 PM

Thanks.  I have a small supply of labeled Code 100 (that I should have measured) and some un labeled track and switches.  Trying not to go too far in one direction or the other before I have to rip it all up and start over again..

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Fullerton, California
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Posted by hornblower on Monday, February 22, 2016 4:00 PM

I found that the rail height of the old Model Power Code 83 flex track (made by GT of Italy) actually measured about .090".  Not a big problem shimming it to match either Code 83 or Code 100 track. I found the biggest difference between the Model Power and Altas Code 83 track to be the thickness of the ties, not the rails. 

Hornblower

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Canada
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Posted by wickman on Monday, February 22, 2016 4:08 PM

Shim or sometimes a bit  of sanding then buffing smooth will  work. I wouldn't recommend a rail height transission on a curve as theres a good chance of a wheel pic.

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 23, 2016 2:32 PM

Markdd

Thanks.  I have a small supply of labeled Code 100 (that I should have measured) and some un labeled track and switches.  Trying not to go too far in one direction or the other before I have to rip it all up and start over again..

You can mix Code 100, 83, 70 and so on.   Just make sure the rail heads match up.  Atlas makes a transition joiner:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Atlas-HO-Code-83-to-Code-100-Transition-Joiners-p/atl-551.htm

The transition joiner is pictured at top, with regular joiners picture below for comparison.  Dont be confused by the fact that it says Code 100 to 83 (.017" difference in rail height).  You can bend it to fit Code 83 to 70 as well (.013" difference in rail height).  I do not recommend transitioning directly from 100 to 70.  These will also work for your not quite code 100.  You dont need to put these between every piece of track, only where the rail code changes.

You will need solder them, but you need to solder you feeders anyway. 

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Tuesday, February 23, 2016 2:46 PM

Congratulations.  You actually have model rail that matches PRR 152 lb/yd prototype rail, the largest rail ever rolled.

As others have said, a little judicious filing and shimming will get the heights to line up if they are different on the two ends of a rail joiner.  More important is to get the gauge side of the railheads to line up.  And one little trick; file a little off the top and side of the railhead, leaving a facet about 3/32" wide and about 1/4" long.  That eliminates the hard angle at the rail end and does wonders keeping the flanges of derailment-prone rolling stock between the rails.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with rail from all over)

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