I am building a 4x8 layout using 2" extruded foam insulation (often called styrofoam). When not in use it will be stored upright so keeping it as thin (and light) as possible is important. Scenery and buildings will lift off for separate storage. Any ideas about mounting switch machines to minimize how far they protrude below (or above) the 2" layout thickness?
I have mounted Tortoises horizontally on another layout which reduces depth to about 2-1/2" from the usual 3-1/2" when vertical but requires additional bends in the actuator wire which makes non-destructive turnout removal impossible.
Tortoise's remote actuator accessory provides location flexibility but its smallest dimension is still 2-3/4" and since it adds both complexity and cost, it's not a good trade-off.
I've also looked at the ANE Smartswitch website www.anemodel.com but can't find any information on dimensions. As well, the linkage system looks to be more complex than Tortoise and in horizontal mount have even more bends.
Suggestions gratefully received!
I'd suggest taking advantage of that 2" foam thickness. Cut a hole in the foam below your turnout big enough for the entire switch motor. Then mount the switch motor to a plate of thin plywood or tempered hardboard the same thickness as your roadbed material. Insert the switch motor into the hole so the mounting plate is flush with the roadbed on either side. The switch motor should protrude below the bottom of the foam only about 1". We published a similar tip (using perf board recessed into the top of the foam) in Workshop Tips in our April 2007 issue.
--Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editorsotte@kalmbach.com
More than one way to skin a tortoise...
and...
You can mount them all in a row along the top ege of your layout, LION uses silicone caulk to attach the machines. Mortise out a ditch for the throw rod, it can later be covered with scenery. LION uses 1/16" welding rod for the linkages. Carefully center the tortoise by hand, and then center the turnout points. Make the loop out of thin wire and solder in place when all is centered.
Works real good. LION recommends it two ewe.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Steven OtteThe switch motor should protrude below the bottom of the foam only about 1".
Steve has a good point here. If you can stand a little more thickness, some 1" or 1.5" foam spacers can be glued on underneath the 2" foam to protect the bottom of the protruding machines.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I used a single Tortoise, the remote actuator set and one extra actuator to drive this pair of HO scale crossing gates from NJ International.
The base unit can be mounted sideways, and it would add about 3/8 of an inch to the shorter dimension of the Tortoise itself. Still, that's a bit less than the length of the Tortoise in the longer dimension, and it has the advantage of putting the circuit board connector on the Tortoise parallel and close to the layout base rather than sticking straight out under the layout as in a more traditional mount.
I like Steve's idea the best, though, if you are sold on Tortoises. Another option might be Peco turnouts and switch machines. These are snap-action twin-coil machines, but they mount directly to the underside of the turnout and can be completely hidden.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Thanks for all these suggestions and photos which are very helpful. I should have mentioned that I had intended to put the switch machine in a “manhole” with a countersunk perf board or similar top as Steve has suggested. In fact, I read a post which suggested making the manhole “lid” big enough to take the turnout itself so that the whole assembly could be bench-assembled and dropped in place. Tortoises are 3” deep when vertical so with perf board thickness and room for wire draping need around 3-1/2”. Unfortunately the 1-1/2” protrusion is the most vulnerable part of the device – PC board and wiring. Mike’s suggestion of adding foam buffers to bottom is essential. In fact, bottom covers may be wise.
Lion’s arrangement reduces the depth by the thickness of the perf board which is helpful but seems to result in a less robust mounting and I worry about higher potential for damage in use and when moving in and out of storage.
The horizontal arrangement using the remote actuator bracket suggested by MisterBeasley knocks about 3/4” off the depth and results a less vulnerable protrusion as it is the smooth, hard side of the Tortoise rather than more fragile PC board and draped wiring. This arrangement would allow Mike’s foam buffering to be thinner and wouldn’t need a bottom cover with its added thickness. I have previously saved another 1/4" by building my own horizontal mounting bracket rather than using the Tortoise one (which, like the whole machine itself, was apparently not designed with compactness in mind).
I am not a fan of the appearance of PECO trackwork and don’t really like snap action actuators. However, I wasn’t aware that their actuators were buried under the track as MisterBeasley has pointed out. Worth re-assessing my biases!
I did receive a reply from AME with pictures that you might be interested in.
Their servo-actuator comes standard with option for vertical or horizontal mounting and its depth is 1-3/4” when vertical or 1-3/8” when horizontal. These dimensions are defined by the swing of the servo arm so a protecting bottom cover would be needed. At least with horizontal mounting, it should be possible to countersink this cover into the bottom of the foam so that it all fits within the 2” available. Might even work with vertical mounting which has a simpler linkage arrangement.
I’ll experiment, research and reflect a bit before deciding so welcome any further thoughts.
JXCI have mounted Tortoises horizontally on another layout which reduces depth to about 2-1/2" from the usual 3-1/2" when vertical but requires additional bends in the actuator wire which makes non-destructive turnout removal impossible.
You can make a new actuator wire out of music wire, available from many hobby shops. My club has tortoise motors that are on their 5th or 6th module. Most of the time it is easier to make a new wire, but wires have been re-used in the past. Ill take some photo's of my module's tortoise installation on Saturday or Sunday (they aren't here at the moment) and post them here.
Steven OtteCut a hole in the foam below your turnout big enough for the entire switch motor. Then mount the switch motor to a plate of thin plywood or tempered hardboard the same thickness as your roadbed material. Insert the switch motor into the hole so the mounting plate is flush with the roadbed on either side.
Seems to me that there are two rules that apply here:
#1. Anything that can possibly go wrong will.
#2. The probability of #1 increases exponentially with the inaccessibility of the item experiencing the problem.
BMMECNYC You can make a new actuator wire out of music wire, available from many hobby shops.
You can make a new actuator wire out of music wire, available from many hobby shops.
Another source of wire for actuators is spring manufacturers. I am not sure how common spring manufacturers are but they are pretty small businesses and I found a one-man operation in an industrial mall within driving distance of where I live. He makes springs from all different gauges and types of wire which he keeps in stock and was happy to sell me a few feet for a few dollars. I was looking for stainless steel wire to use outdoors where piano wire rusts but he had various types of bronze and steel alloys too in an amazing array of sizes. The only downside is the wire is all in coils or spools so needs to be straightened. For the few inches needed for an actuator, straightening by hand is not a problem.
I get "music wire" or "piano wire" at the Local Hardware Store, which in my case is a True Value store.
You're going to need a heavy-duty pair of wire cutters, both for cutting and bending. I use a hefty pair of lineman's pliers. You'll destroy a small pair that you use for installing decoders if you try to use them for cutting this wire.
BMMECNYCIll take some photo's of my module's tortoise installation on Saturday or Sunday (they aren't here at the moment) and post them here.
So, yeah photos will have to wait a while longer until the snow is cleared enough for me to get to my modules.