So I'm building a layout that's 1" foam on top of 0.5" plywood. I don't own any tortoises/smails (yet), but I thought I'd save some time by laying down the necessary templates for when I can afford them, or cutting holes in the benchwork, or whatever I have to do, while I can still get to stuff during construction.
The Smail and Tortoise instructions mention having to replace the actuator rod with a longer one, and it sounds like a really difficult and risky process.
What is your success rate if you have changed one of these out? Are there better methods for mounting them?
Julian
Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)
In the case of the Tortoise, it's left to you to "manufacture" the actuator anyway. They just provide a straight piece of piano wire and you have to bend it yourself into the shape required. The only extra work if you use wire other than what is supplied is cutting it to length. Just make sure you get a good set of wire cutters that are intended for use with hard wire. This stuff will ruin a standard pair.
My success rate is 100% - not because I possess any special skill, it's just really easy to do.
BTW, if you need to go longer than the piece of wire provided, you'll want something heavier. I use .032". I think what is provided is .025".
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I'm helping my friend on his layout and we made several long actuators with no problems. Do drill the holes in teh benchwork ahead of time. There is also an adjuster on the side of the tortoise to adjust the amount of side to side movement of the rod. We made the rod about1/4" longer than needed and cut it once in place.As sugested use a good wire cutter and wear safety glasses. Joe
Lots of good ways to mount Tortii. Many LION turtles on fourth install. kneadless to say, actuator rod may be to short for new install. Piano Wire a good choice, but never worked for LION. Maybey him buys cheap piano wire. Unbend a paper clip, not as hard as could be but still wroks.
For other tasks, especially for remote installation of Tortoise, 1/16" welding rod is good. A one pound bundle costs about $7.00 and has about 50 peices in it. Sea the LION and the Tortoise for mountin ideas. scroll down to the bottom.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
You can also use K&S Eng. solid Brass rod...1/32/1/16''. Easier to cut than music wire and will stay stiff enough to control switch machine linkage, which I have used it for on distant turnouts with no room for a ground throw. It's not soft Brass, so works quite well. You can get two 36'' lengths for 2.79. Can be cut with side cutters, just dress cut with a piece of sandpaper or file. I use it also as a axle replacement on the 1/87 scale trucks I build.
Take Care!
Frank
I'll second or third (or whatever) the piano wire advice already given.
I've also repurposed Tortii to new locations with greater depth and have had to replace the throwbars as a result. It's not difficult at all.
Just go to your LHS and get a length of piano wire. You may want to get something a little heavier than the .025 that's supplied with the Tortoise. Your throwbars will be longer than "normal", and the .025 that comes with the Tortoise may flex excessively at that length.
I'll also emphasize to use a good, sturdy pair of cutters (do NOT use your track nippers!) and eye protection, especially when you're trimming the throwbar after installation.
One reason I have moved away from foam is it's a pain to mount tortoises under them. Although the actuator is adjustable for table top thickness, the best place for the tortoise is just under the trackbed IMHO. You can do thicker but it's more of a pain in the duckass.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
This is the type of tool You need to cut harden steel wire, music wire. As You can see, it is not cheap....one reason I said use brass rod. I have a larger version of a similar tool, but it will cut up to a 1/8'' diameter hardened steel rod, I use a lot of music wire, on My projects:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/xur/xur2193.htm
Don H, I agree with Your statement......
I also use music wire, which I buy at the Local Hardware Store. I think mine is .039.
The Tortoise comes with a template for bending the wire to shape. It's very simple.
If you use thicker wire, you will need to drill a slightly larger hole where it goes into the mechanism. The hole provided works for the .025 wire provided, but you want a snug fit and you'll need to enlarge it just a bit.
Clean up the end that goes through the throwbar with a file, and round it off. This will make it much easier to actually get through the throwbar when mounting.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I used some 3/8" plywood to make mounting plates for my Tortoise machines and made subassemblies ready to install on the layout. This proved to be much easier than trying to screw them in while looking upside down at the layout. I also used some 1 1/2" wide carpet tape (very strong) to hold the assembly in place once aligned with the turnout throwbar. I use .039" piano wire for all of my Tortoise machines. It just reqires drilling the hole in the moving bar and the adjustable guide to clear it. I cut mine at least 1" longer than the stock size to make it easier to 'find' the hole in the throwbar and then when it is finally screwed in place, I cut the excess off at the top. Must have wire cutters specifically designed for 'hard wire' or you will ruin the tool.
Make sure the Tortise wire is in the neutral or centered position and the turnout throwbar is also centered between straight and curved positions, this will insure equal throw distances. This way when you push the throw wire up and through the hole in the throwbar you can press the assembly against the underside of the layout and the carpet tape will hold it in place while you test the operation. If all is OK, just put the 2 or 3 or 4 screws in and you are done. This has worked great for my 32 turnouts.
I haven't done this on a foam layout but I think you could mount some plywood 'platforms' at turnout locations and then use this method when you get to that stage on your layout.
-Bob
PS: You could eleminate the hole in the mounting plate and just let the Tortise overhang the end, but I didn't realize this until I had installed mine?
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
I use .032" music wire from my local hobby shop. The stiffer wire allows me to make longer actuating rods and also special shape ones. There is little to no risk to the machine. If you go this route you will need the Xuron 2193 Music Wire cutter or equivalent, normal rail snippers wont cut it (figuratively and literally), also pun intended.
carl425Just make you get a good set of wire cutters that are intended for use with hard wire.
I bought these from Micromark for cutting the piano wire I'll be using. They are specifically made for cutting hardened wire. That wire will turn regular wire cutters to junk in no time. If you look at the picture, these use a shearing action to cut the wire. If you click on the link below, it shows a close up of the cutting surfaces.
Hardened wire cutters
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Marion,
Those cutters will cut music wire like it was butter, they even cut hardened wire cable. Been using them for a number of yrs. now.
Still cut like new.