Just starting to hand lay track. Using ME code 83 track. I am ready to do the first rail joint. Needs some tips on how to get the ME code 83 joiners to slip over the rail. Also, tips on soldering the joiners would be welcomed.
do you need joiners, especially if you need gaps?
do you need joiners if you solder the rails together? (make sure the rails are properly aligned, especially the height)
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Micro Engineering joiners are a tight fit for sure. If you hit the base and web of the rail with a pass or two from a file, it's usually enough to get the joiner to slide on.
When I use code 83, I like the Atlas N scale code 80 joiners. They're still small and easy to hide, but easier to use. They also work with Atlas and Shinohara (Walthers) code 83 rail, helpful if mixing brands.
If you're using regular rail no special preparation is necessary for soldering. If you have "weathered" rail, the chemical weathering will need to be cleaned off the area around the joiner for solder to adhere. Again, a few passes with a file take care of it.
Regardless of the type of solder I use, I like to apply a small amount of paste flux to the joint. I hold the iron on one side of the rail, the solder on the opposite side, and allow the solder to flow toward the heat.
Rob Spangler
I was helping a club hand lay rail back in the 60's and IIRC, they did not use rail joiners. But then I am not sure what they did do.
Lion has no prblem with just butting them together and then placing a bit of solder. File the profile if necessary.
Perhaps it is time for the staff at MR to build a layout using hand laid rail.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
davidmbedardTake a piece of c 83 rail. ....stick one end into a dowel for a handle and sharpen the free end so the base of the rail makes a wedge. It allows you to slip on the rail joiner and it will spread it for you allowing you to now easily slip it on your hand layer work.
This is what I do except I use cheap file handles. I made one for each different type of rail that I use filed to shape joiners for mateing different types of rail as I use ME and Peco turnouts and Atlas rail.
Thanks for the tips. Getting ready to head for the local hardware store for some flux, rosin core solder and maybe a new soldering iron with changeable tips.
If you're stocking up on solder stuff, get a little tin of tip cleaner. A dab into it every do often when soldering makes everything work a whole lot better and quicker. Radio Shack sells it, although it seems a bit pricey; there may be other sources. Doing without it is tough sledding, though, and it lasts a long time.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
There's no need to use them for hand laid. There are certain circumstances w/ transition to flex or other special trackwork that you could use a rail joiner. Also for locating/ anchoring bridgework etc.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Just an advice don't solder all the track togheter; let a few rail unsoldered this give a place for the rail to expand or contract.
But in all the curves I solder the rail togheter, but never on straight track.
I have used them when hand laying, only to align rail ends. Quick pass with a flat mill file on the underside of the rail was enough to get them to slide on. Yes, ME joiners are tight, but, little file work on the ends and a little bit of "coercion" with needle-nose pliers, no problems. Yes, I know, hand layed rail you could just spike and then solder together, but, I prefer some joints to remain un-soldered to allow for expansion/contraction of bench work. Last thing I want is for all that work to be ruined by the humidity changing! Joiners just allow me peace of mind where I have not soldered together, as I know the ends will always be in alignment, yes, spikes do the same, but, it makes me feel better. Overkill? Maybe, but, I will take that chance when striving for bullet-proof track work. If I can't move a full-length train through the area, at speed, forwards and backwards, both directions, whether pulling or pushing with my locomotives, than I need to tweak the track work until I can do that. If I can do this, then I don't worry about any expansion issues, as the slight gaps I leave in summer will be closed in winter, and closed gaps in winter will seperate slightly during summer. If it's absolutely bullet-proof when is lay it, it will stay that way for a long time.
EDIT:
Also, if you have the chance, instant heat soldering irons, and if possible cordless version of such, are very nice when soldering joints. No risk of burning anything if you set it on the bench work while aligning the next joint. No heat unless you are holding the power switch in. They are nice, yes, they also cost more, but maybe worth it just because of the safety feature. Mine, also will not heat up unless it is contacting something hard. You have to press not only the power switch, but the tip at the same time. Even safer yet...
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Marc_Magnus Just an advice don't solder all the track togheter; let a few rail unsoldered this give a place for the rail to expand or contract. But in all the curves I solder the rail togheter, but never on straight track.
MYTH .... The RAIL does not expand and contract .... the benchwork does.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Mark R. Marc_Magnus Just an advice don't solder all the track togheter; let a few rail unsoldered this give a place for the rail to expand or contract. But in all the curves I solder the rail togheter, but never on straight track. MYTH .... The RAIL does not expand and contract .... the benchwork does. Mark.
MYTH???!!!*** My benchwork is steel, my roadbed is foam plastic and my rails DO expand lengthwise - about .75mm/meter over a 100 degree(F) temperature span. The usual culprit, humidity acting on forest products, is completely absent from the equation, both because of the absence of forest products and because of the absence of humidity. Here in the dessicated desert humidity is considered to be a rumor spread by people from wetter climes.
Yes, it really is dry heat...
Chuck (Modeling soggy Central Japan in September, 1964 - in a Mojave Desert garage)
Sorry, but I can agree whith you, I have had a good problem whith track a few years ago on my Nscale layout.
The track used is ME code 55 and at this time I soldered all the flextrack togheter.
The track is glued on cork and on a place on my layout I have around 3 meters of nearly straight track which run on a one piece plywood roadbed (3/4")
There was just a small girder span in this track and there I use bridge track.
We have had a hot summer some years ago here in Belgium.
The track on the small bridge was lifted around 2 or 3 centimeter over the bridge and the surrounded area.
Conclusion, not a benchwork expand, but track and because soldered everywhere and glued he can move ...except on the bridge where it was lightly glued.
After I put everything back in place and unsoldered the piece of track, I never had any troubles.
Another proof, in winter my layout room is cold, rarely over 15c° and I can heard a small "clac-clac" when the metal wheels roll over a joint of track. Contraction
These "clac-clac" never exist in summer. Expansion
Again, thanks for all the tips. Making progress. I took advice to just butt the rail ends together without joiners. Also ordered medium ME spikes and am much happier with the appearance with the medium spikes. My test metal wheel truck rolls nicely through the 24 inch radius curve. Most say I am enjoying the experience.
Finished hand laying siding that serves an elevator and a fuel tank farm. The cars seem to roll satisfactorily on the siding with no derailments. Now ready to tackle some turn outs and a wye.