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Preferred Soldering Irons

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  • Member since
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  • From: Yukon Territory
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Preferred Soldering Irons
Posted by Sam Steele on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 12:43 AM

I was looking at getting a new soldering iron as I am unhappy with my butane unit, and I was wondering if I could get some feedback on peoples preferred brands/models.

I saw a Weller WLC100 at Micro Mark for a resonable price, but I am not sure if the 40 watt maximum would be ideal. So my next pick was a Weller WES51 which brings another 10 watts to the party, but at almost triple the price.

Paul

Tags: soldering
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Posted by peahrens on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 9:50 AM

I use more than one.  I have two pencil irons (one a 45 watt Radio Shack and one a smaller 30 watt Harbor Freight hobby set iron/woodburner) but also have a Weller 100/140 watt I used for soldering track feeders (which is best to do with heat sinks on the rails if you use this size).

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

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Posted by modelmaker51 on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 11:15 AM

For general MRing needs such as wiring, metal handrails etc, the cheaper 40watt Weller will do fine, it's adjustable and I've been using one for five years. Get all three tips, that'll cover you for any likely job you're going to come across. I got mine at MicroMart. For bigger jobs like 10gauge wire or bigger get a 100watt or bigger iron, but the 40watt will do 90% of the jobs. I pull out my 100watter about twice a year and I do a lot of soldering.

The secret to soldering is to keep the tip CLEAN. Get some tip cleaner (Radio Shack sells it). Keep the sponge moist and wipe the tip before and after each solder joint so it's always shiney. If you start to get black crud buildup, submerge the tip in the tip cleaner and then wipe it on the moist sponge and retin the tip (add a little solder)..

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

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Posted by Train Modeler on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 11:19 AM

I have two WLC100s(I can't remember why--lol)  and they're great.  I call them soldering stations though.  The range adjuster is handy and I use it depending on which tip I use.  

The WES51 or WLC200 are fine too.  I think both have more heat potential but Weller's online info is very poor and so you can't trust it.   For example, Weller says that the WES51 produces 850, while the WLC100 produces 900.  Hard to believe that when one has 20% more amps and similar tips. 

I would want to read the box or call someone who can, ie like a store--lol.   Anyway be sure and get plenty of the different tips you will want as it's usually a pain to get one or two later.  AND sometimes the packaging doesn't match the exact tip.  I have found I need to put it in my hands to be certain.

Richard

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Posted by Marc_Magnus on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 2:47 PM

If you are ready to buy a Weller, I would prefer a Weller soldering station I recommand You the Weller PU 81, Its powerfull, you can change the tips from big to small and the station feature a build in potetiometer to adjust power.

I have build some Brass models in Nscale but also all my turnouts whith Fastrack jigs whith this station and have solder also all the bus wire under the layout.

This station is a versatile and life invest.

Marc

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Posted by narrow gauge nuclear on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 3:52 PM

For under table work I use a gun and a good weller at that.  For track work, (attaching feeders, etc), I use a 30 watt pencil iron and for DCC installation, loco and car lighting wiring work, I use a 10 watt micro tip pencil.  No one iron will solve all needs.  I've been in the electronics biz for 45 years.

The admonition about cleanliness of the tips is sage. be it a gun or pencil, a clean tip will save a lot of heartache.  I have a process to keep the tip clean.  before each and eavry soldering event, the moment I pull the iron out of its holder, I wipe the tip thoroughly on a wet sponge and make sure the tip looks like polished silver. (tinned properly)  I then quickly make my solder joint and before putting the pencil back in its holder, I wipe it into one of those coiled metal shaving tip pads to clean off excess solder from the soldering operation jsut perfromed and then back onto the wet sponge and only then back to the holder.  As noted these actions are repeated for each joint. 

If I am finished and unplug the iron or turn it off I always put a blob of rosin solder on the tip right after powering down to reaffirm a good tin job and wipe one final time on the wet sponge and finally, before the tip cools, put a nice healthy blob of solder on the tip and carefully replace the iron in it holder to finish cooling.  By doing this, you have a protective lump of solder on the point to freeze and protect the tip against corrosion until the next use.

Take care of your iron's tip and it will take care of you the next time you need it.

Richard

If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed

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Posted by richg1998 on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 4:10 PM

I have been using the WLC-100 for some years. Fine conical pointed tip at 50 percent heat for decoder wires and PC board work. Standard wedge tip at 75 percent heat for attaching feeders to track using #22 solid wire.

Solder gun for attaching feeders to #14 wire.

Rich

If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.

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Posted by HO-Velo on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 4:22 PM

Paul,

Couple years ago I read Modelmaker51's July 2010 tutorial post on soldering, then purchased a Weller WP35 and the suggested soldering materials. With a little practice both the iron and the method work great for nearly all my hobby soldering needs.  Recently began using a wire tip cleaner for convenience, though can't say it works any better than the damp sponge.

Did use an old Weller 100w iron when it came time to solder track feeder wires to my 14g solid copper buss wire, I'll bet the WP35 would have done the job, just not as fast.  

Though still working on my soldering skills I've successfully used the WP35 for soldering small gage wire, resistors and Leds, but use heat sinks for insurance.

BTW, Thanks Jay.

Regards,  Peter 

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Posted by Schuylkill and Susquehanna on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 6:52 PM

I have found that a number of the more recently made soldering irons have problems with the tip corroding.  I also bought a Weller soldering iron with "digital" temperature control that refused to heat up even when it indicated that it was hot.  I have found that the older soldering irons tend to preform better.  These older irons can be picked up in boxes of tools at train auctions or at train shows.

S&S

P.S.  My favorite iron is a 1980s vintage Weller 40 watt iron.

 

Modeling the Pennsy and loving it!

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Posted by cmrproducts on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 7:00 PM

I only use a Weller 100W Gun for soldering my drop wires to #12 Stranded.

Using anything else is a joke and only fustrates a NUBE learing to solder!

The best Welleris the ones with the Screw nuts to hold the solder tip!

The newer Wellers have screws to secure the tips and will NEVER stay tight after repeated Heating & Cooling cycles!

And as for Solder Tips - I use #12 copper wire which heats up Faster so you won't have to wait for the big end tips to get hot!

This is where too many go wrong and do not have the tip hot enough to quickly transfer the heat to the item to be soldered!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

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Posted by richg1998 on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 7:35 PM

 

Using a scratch brush to clean the rail, rosin flux, rosin core solder, wedge tip, 75 to 80 percent heat with the WLC-100 and the feeders solder very well. I also use Radio Shack tip cleaner which helps keep the tip cleaner a little longer.

Preparation is a big part of successfully soldering feeders. Patience and not being in a hurry helps a lot. You have to realize soldering is not a necessary evil. It is part of the hobby.

Practicing with scrap track and wire helps a lot.

 

Rich

If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.

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  • From: S.E. Adirondacks, NY
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Posted by modelmaker51 on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 7:52 PM

You are most welcome Peter!

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 29, 2014 7:54 PM

Favorite soldering iron:  Weller 921ZX (has base with adjustable temperature).   I had a radio shack soldering iron that I bought about a year and a half ago.  They used white bead styrofoam as the insulation inside the iron.... when everything but the tip was getting hot, and started emitting toxic smoke, I decided to go back to the weller for all soldering needs.  As for the radio shack iron, I cut the cord off (so someone wouldnt pick it out of the garbage or something and burn their house down) and promptly disposed of it in the dumpster.  I also own a Weller 150W soldering gun.  Which is great for under table work,

  • Member since
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  • From: Yukon Territory
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Posted by Sam Steele on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 8:11 AM

Thanks for all the great advice guys. I ended up going with a Weller WES51. Amazon had it for a reasonable price. Now I just have to wait two weeks!

Thanks again!

Paul.

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Posted by last mountain & eastern hogger on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 10:41 AM

Whistling

I know it is a little after the fact here, but I feel I would like to recommend to others the one that was recommended to me by my favorite electronics supply store. it is a HIKKO soldering station. I bought this about five years ago and it is a delight to use. Variable, dial set heat control, lots of cord lenght, compact in size and I got it for under $100.00, one of the best buys I have made.

johnboy out.................

from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North.. 

We have met the enemy,  and he is us............ (Pogo)

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