Trying to fit 22" loops on dogbone ends, and come within 2" of the edge. Is this too close for On30? I really want that 22" for larger steam locos.
Steve
Life is tough, but it's tougher if your'e stupid.
Ok, I get it... dumb question. Went with the 18".
Fouled Anchor I really want that 22"
Gidday Steve, some times "a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.
Two inches certainly sounds too close, but the HO modular group that I am associated with has a 3 inch track centre from the edge for their outside track, and besides there are plenty of photos of model trains safetly negotiating "high" trestles with no edge distance.
Forum member Tom White has, from memory, a five foot dive to the concrete on one part of his Yuba River Subdivision, which, and I hope I don't put a curse on him, he has had no problem with.
My real concern would be the overhang of the locos, could they catch on any scenery above track height. and is there any chance of adverse human interaction due to aisle positioning??
Any how here's a link to a previous thread on the topic......... http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/218344/2408517.aspx#2408517
Cheers, the Bear.
EDIT. "Ok, I get it... dumb question. Went with the 18".
No , just a bit quick out of the blocks.In this case you shouild have dragged your anchor.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Steve,
I assume you are still in the planning stage of your On30 layout. Here are a couple of facts you should consider when selecting the radius of your curves:
The Bachmann 2-4-4 On30 Forney won´t be able to negotiate curves below a radius of 22". While the loco will go through a much sharper curve, the back of it swings so far out of center that any car following will derail.
The Bachmann 4-4-0 and 2-6-0 locos are fine on a radius of 18", even narrower, but not below 15"
The big articulated locos need 24".
The Porter 0-4-0 and 0-4-2 are fine with a radius as low as 9".
2" is not too close if the loco doesn't derail and fall. Otherwise, it is.
Rich
Alton Junction
2" will work but,I would add a low guardrail painted green(so it will blend with the foreground scenery) to keep a car or locomotive from hitting the big catch all.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
It's only too close if you have no clearance between what prevents it from tumbling all the way to the floor and the edge of the locomotive or whatever 'sticks out' most as it rounds the curve. But you do have to have something preventing it from tumbling. It'll happen. Use thin plexiglass fences or something.
You could have put a guard rail on the inside radius of Your curve, it is Prototypical in some area's.
Could you nail or screw, or glue another piece to the outside edge?
Have Fun!
Frank
TWO INCHES ies WAY TOO GENEROUS!
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I am with Lion. Get the radius you need, you will regret looking at the 4" space and locos straining around 18" curves. Then mame an arrangement to prevent falls.
You can get as close as you like to the edge, as long as you realize trains are at risk for the "big fall". You may want to build some kind of thing, whether scenery or plexiglass or whatever to keep your nice expensive trains from having an accident.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
JaBear, thanks for the input. Yup, shoulda dragged anchor. I though after I posted, Doah!!! Then thought... well 18" should not limit turn of the century steam. I thought I had seen some videos on YouTube, but then again these guys are the pros. Thanks for the advice from WAY over on the other side of the globe. Your Gidday is my good night.
Ulrich, yup still working on the plan. I'll post it when I have it done. I took your advice, and added point to pont mining operations with ONE run around loop. Original plan was for just Shay and Climax. But then thought about passenger service. So, a 2-6-0 would do nicely. I feel better at 18" where I have a good 6" from the edge.
Thanks for the info sir.
Thanks for the info guys, even the tongue in cheek wisdom. Here's the clinker, and why I am going with the 18. I am planning to hand lay everything, and I have NEVER hand layed. It will be the larger 2-6-0 stuff that will utilize the dogbone run so speeds will be higher than the Shay/Climax stuff. Get ready for a bunch of hand laying questions. Made up my mind, and I am going to do it.... I think.
Thanks guys
On my HO layout I have a curve at one end that the tie ends are nearly at the edge of the surface. I had no problems, but wanted protection, should someone be close to the layout when a train went by or a grandchild have their foot to the floor. I made a removeable plexiglass fence as shown in the EXPERT TIPS video above under Videos. If you have a loco that you think is going to hang over just a little too much, you can shim the fence out just enough for it to clear. The clear plexiglass does not interfear with watching the trains at all, but sure gives a large measure of secureity, both to your mind and the trains.
I did do it a bit differently. I used all 1/8" masonite, and did used 3"-4" blocks to set the plexi on. Just make sure you have a block where the ends of the pieces of plexi meet. To keep the tops of the edges aligned I used the sliding pieces from report covers. I could not find clear slides, but the blue ones do not show up much. I haven't tried to use them on a corner yet. Made some corner braces out of plexi, but so far successful gluing the parts has been iffy at best. I had the hardware store where I bought the plexi cut it into 6" strips. Maybe if they had been only 4" they would not need to be held to stay lined up.
Good luck,
Richard
Richard, excellent idea. Although there should not be children here at all.... still.
Thanks for the idea, gonna toy with it.
Even with no small children involved, us big kids can get too close and accidently catch clothing or what we are carrying on the passing train. Also, a throttle could get bumped and the train take off like a rocket sled on rails. Never can tell. I feel the small investment in time and plexiglass is cheap insurance, especially now with sound locomotives running the price of our motive power to the next level.
You could just put it near the curves, though I have found that a shirt sleeve cuff can catch and derail a train on the straight too. The fence makes me reach over, so don't bump as much, and if I do bump it, there is a guard there to keep it from taking a dive.
Have fun,
BroadwayLion....TWO INCHES ies WAY TOO GENEROUS!.....
I'm with Lion on this one.
This is a combination team track and a house track for the station, but pusher locos are sometimes parked here, too:
Only a 3' drop to the floor, but tracks nearest the aisle on both sides are only an inch from the edge:
Still only 3' above the floor, but this one's even closer, with the tie ends 1/4" from the abyss. I've run a brass Yellowstone around here without fear:
These views show part of the grade to the second level of my layout (not yet built). There's about 20' of track here that's within 1" of the edge, and about 40' in-total where the terrain drops steeply away from the track to the aisle's edge. A derailment would put things literally "on the ground", 4'-5' below. I run trains here with a degree of care, naturally, but have faith in my trackwork.
Wayne
Wayne,
Looking at the pic's of the grade going to the second level, was somehow screaming at me for a backdrop covering over that facia, that included a very long stone arch Bridge. Sort of like the late John Allen's G&D canyon's, scenery at it's best, to the floor.
I agree with LION and Wayne.
Here is my S Scale American Flyer layout maximizing the amount of available space.
If you go back and read my post, OP, I believe I mentioned the philosophy currently being discussed by the last several posters...you only need a plexiglass fence and get your curve as close as real clearances will allow.
-Crandell
Too funny Rich, and it is a Flyer.
Thanks
Rich,
I think You should send that in to,''There I fixed It''. Remember those I sent You? OOPS! Sorry. I forgot You have CRS, Syndrome.
richhotrain I agree with LION and Wayne. Here is my S Scale American Flyer layout maximizing the amount of available space. Rich
What? Me Worry?
Rich, you kill me! Used to run some of the "old" Lionel something like that
If you feel the 2" is too close, just "bump" out the facia ( block out to allow a clean sweeping curve) at the areas needed. Plexi or better "Lexan" guard "rail" can be uses as added safety. I wouldn't sacrifice larger radius for such a small extension, even if encroached into the isle width. Only talking a couple inches and for a short distance.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
bogp40 Rich, you kill me! Used to run some of the "old" Lionel something like that
Fouled AnchorTrying to fit 22" loops on dogbone ends, and come within 2" of the edge.
Why not widen the benchwork? There is nothing magic about a 4-foot width.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
Thanks bog, I'll give that a shot. I am already looping in a 4' square, and a bulge would only have to be a small one. I am using AnyRail, so it's not a problem.
Remember the distance dose not need to be the same on all sides, if you have a wall on one side you can go as close as possible without hitting on that side and get maybe 4" on the other.
Thanks rrebell. Although the plan is for an around the room U, both dogbone loops are on expanded areas at the ends of the U, but through expanding the ends I do have a 4" clearance.