I'm presently putting up facsia and though I've seen many layouts througout MR over the past 2 decades I'm still not sold on the standard "painted-over masonite"' I realize it's all about the layout and the Facsia shouldn't steal the show I'm just thinking there must be a way to make it "blend in with the layout.
Any suggestions or pictures would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5959
If one could roll back the hands of time... They would be waiting for the next train into the future. A. H. Francey 1921-2007
My favorite is a dark green, tight weave, indoor/outdoor fabric I found at one of the big box stores (Lowe's or HD?) it kind of looks like courduroy (sp?) and if you mount something to it (throttle pocket, etc.) the hole is nearly invisible if you decide to remove it later.
It is nice because it does not scuff up. It absorbs sound—to a degree. I'll try to post a pic soon.
I used a latex mastic and applied it over the thin wood paneling that I did have up (that was covered with durable wallpaper)... good but not ideal.
I bought it several years ago but there might be something similar out there.
Good Luck, Ed
I used Sherwin Williams Satin #6236 Grays Harber. Medium gray is a neutral, therefore the eye goes to the scenery and not the facia. The paint goes on smooth over masonite, that I sanded lightly with 600 grit black finishing paper and I two coated it. Very tough when cured. Looks great when finished. Also quick and easy. Doug
A smooth surface, painted a solid color, seems to work as well as anything. I've seen a few attempts at blending the fascia and scenery, including painting the fascia as some kind of geologic cross-section, and they always end up distracting more than helping. I like to use a color that picks up one of the darker colors from the scenery. The oft-repeated advice to use lighter colors for arid scenery isn't something i care for.
I'm using a sagebrush-y olive green. It doesn't draw much attention to itself. Semi-gloss paint will wear better than flat (which always gets scuffed), and it shows flaws in the fascia less than gloss.
Rob Spangler
A dark color such as Hunter Green keeps the fascia from detracting attention away from the layout itself.
I used a dark green, too. But, instead of using masonite, I used indoor paneling. It bends around corners quite well and I like the texture.
Because of the texture, it took 2 coats to cover. I find that dark colors draw your attention to the layout, which are lighter than the fascia. The human eye is always drawn to lighter colors than darker.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I used luan plywood with semi-gloss dark green paint. DJ.
Another vote for don't try to blend with the scenery - I tried to complement it, but not distract from it. Face it, our little worlds "end" at the facsia, and I've never seen a convincing attempt to make it look like it doesn't! I use painted Masonite, but curvy... it appears more green in this photo, but is actually a deep dark blue (think the dark blue on the B&O's blue-grey-black scheme).
Ed
I kind of developed this two layer facia out of necessity and then made it go all around the layout. I happen to have the terra cotta color and liked it with the grey.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
I haven't got my layout far enough along to finish the fascia but having used it before, I'm considering using black Formica to finish the fascia. This stuff is surprisingly easy to work with and the finished product looks great. My layout benchwork uses 1/2" plywood fascia panels as structural members so I have uniformly flat surfaces to which I can attach the Formica. To apply the Formica, I will cut a length of Formica slightly wider than the depth of the plywood fascia, then use contact cement to glue it in place. I will then use a trim router with a bearing equipped straight bit to trim the Formica edges to meet the both the bottom of the 1/2" plywood fascia as well as layout surface contour at the top of the fascia. I might need to place strips of masking tape over the edge of the scenery to ensure that the guide bearing does not burn the scenery. A little fine sandpaper along the edges of the trimmed Formica to knock down the sharp edges and its done. If I go this route, I'll have to post how it goes as well as what problems I run into. The only real problem I anticipate would be how well the router bit guide bearing will follow the scenery contour, especially in spots with soft scenery materials.
Hornblower
Thanks Guys!
The pics have been very helpful and have definately solved my concerns and issues ( facsia is half up 30' of 60')
Fergie
I did something similar only I used a product called polywall. Its a very thin plastic that takes sharp bends extremely well. No worries on your contuors if your using a trim router, thats what I used very easy to control and if you slip a bit no big deal. Painted satin black looks great. The router does throw quite a bit of debris so safty glasses are a must. Shop vac is very handy for cleanup
Better late than never... Here's photos of the stuff I use. I only have a portion finished and these pics aren't the best but as far as a fascia material I really like the fabric option.
Regards, Ed
No fascia installed yet. When I do I'm leaning toward unpainted tempered Masonite. It doesn't show grubby handprints, wipes off easily and can accommodate the numerous removable panels needed for electrical access.
If the natural color displeases me, I can always paint it.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
You can just continue the scenery to the front. Put a layer of plaster over the area, and then use the same scenic colors as on that area of the layout. A nice thing about that is it makes it easier to take pictures of scenes near the front of the layout without that unrealistic black or green "strip" along the bottom of the picture.
This is my fascia, made by glueing strips of masonite onto the masonite fascia. Then adding wood buttons to simulate rivets. It is inspired by Tim Warris Bronx terminal. Painted to simulate rusted plate.
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Graffen This is my fascia, made by glueing strips of masonite onto the masonite fascia. Then adding wood buttons to simulate rivets. It is inspired by Tim Warris Bronx terminal. Painted to simulate rusted plate.
I LIKE IT!
Very Nautical, which Corvette is that on the upper shelf?
I'll chime in as well. The area under my layout is storage for all of our Tuperware containers of household and seasonal decorating stuff, and train stuff, so I wanted something to cover it all that went to the floor. I had some closure planels left over from a backyard gazebo set-up, so I shortened them, and placed them with openings as needed, and held them in place with brass screws and brass finish washers. The finished trim on the top, covers the edge of the benchwork, and 2" foam base.
Here is drawer set-up I built that holds rolling stock. Mike.
Here is drawer set-up I built that holds rolling stock.
Mike.
My You Tube
Fergmiester Graffen This is my fascia, made by glueing strips of masonite onto the masonite fascia. Then adding wood buttons to simulate rivets. It is inspired by Tim Warris Bronx terminal. Painted to simulate rusted plate. I LIKE IT! Very Nautical, which Corvette is that on the upper shelf?
It is HMS Begonia; K66.