Regular vs. EZ Track costs

[jacon12]

While in the LHS the other day I noticed that Atlas straight track, a package of 4 9 inch, sold for $4.95 and Bachman's EZ track sold for $9.50 for the same size and pieces. That gets me to wondering, since I'm soon about to start my first HO layout, if EZ track would be the way to go since it has the built in roadbed and connections would be fast and secure. I'm assuming from the few prices I saw that a layout with EZ track would be about twice as expensive as regular track, but by the time you figured in the cost of cork or other roadbed the difference wouldn't be that great..., maybe 25 to 35% more. I'm new at all this so is my thinking correct on this, or am I way off? Are there any advantages, other than costs and the satisfaction of laying your own, that regular track (sectional or flex), has over an EZ track type product?
Also, what is the difference in the 'codes' of track and why would you choose one over the other?
Thanks for any help and any tales from your experience.

[Anonymous]

You are correct about the cost between the EZ track and Atlas with cork, 6 of one, half dozen of the other. The question you ask yourself is; can I live with the limitation of the EZ track? By this I mean, your layout will be dictated by the available EZ track pieces. If you go the Atlas route, or any other track only manufacturer, you can modify the track to suit your layout desires. The 3' sections of flex track offer a ton of possibilities in layout design that you wouldn't be able to do with rigid EZ track.

Your two choices come down to flexibility in layout design vs. fast assembly and limited design. The cost should be about the same in the end.

And personally, I like the look of code 83 track over cork roadbed that has been ballasted, it looks realistic too!

[orsonroy]

And a 3 foot long piece if Atlas flextrack sells for only $2.35, saving you even more.

There are lots of benefits of using flextrack over either sectional track or roadbed and track systems. Cost is a big one. Any roadbed and track system is going to be much more expensive than just plain old track. The benefit of the R&T systems is that they really are designed for temporary layouts on the carpeting, which is great for someone with no space for a permanent layout. Sectional track.......well, I can't actually think of a real reason to buy that stuff. Lots of track joints means bad electrical flow, and no roadbed means you can't use it for trains on the floor. And the small number of track elements means your layouts are restricted in size and shape.

Now using flextrack and commercoal switches is another matter entirely. Most of our layouts involve lots of track, and relatively fewer switches. With flextrack, you're able to design basically any layout you want. And with new switch kits on the market (like Central Valley's) you can even build any type of switch you need to suit a specific situation. The only real downside to flextrack is the initial learning curve: it's easy to screw up curve radii or easements, as well as vertical transitions and track joints. But once you master the basics, there's no turning back.

Of course, if you want the cheapest and most flexible track system around, there's always handlaying. But that's another topic entirely.....

[jacon12]

I had not thought about the flexibility angle and I'm guessing that a track, such as Atlas flex in 3 foot lengths, would be a good bit cheaper than 4 9 inch sections. I'm also assuming that you can use flex and sectional together. I'll admit I'm a little concerned about flex track when I read posts here and elsewhere and a modeler gets frustrated using it on curves. Evidently it isn't that easy to do and takes some practice.

[jacon12]

it looks like flex track is the way to go and I'll just HAVE to learn to lay it properly. There must be a way to do curves and get them right with it, I mean rather than the 'hope it'll turn out right" method. It's part of the hobby and another thing to learn, so I'm willin' :)

[bcammack]

One positive thing about Bachmann EZ Track and Life Like Powerlock is that it's usually dirt-cheap bought used. I bought a bundle of used Powerlock at the last GATS show (for my grandson's layout) for $2. It was grungy, but I threw it in the top rack of the dishwasher and it came out all shiny and new-looking. [:)]

Always good to keep in mind, particularly for when you want a small loop of test track when you're working on a locomotive or some rolling stock.

[Anonymous]

dogoodlander - I agree totally. There are pros and cons of each way to do track and I think you hit the nail on the head.

jacon. Here's an additional possibility. Using sectional track has an advantage that it is somewhat cheaper than the EZ track and you don't have to worry about kinking the track as much or ensuring proper minimum radius is maintained (don't k now about everyone else, but there are times I've started to lay a 26 inch radius flex track curve, made it a little tighter here, and a little tighter there and before you know it I have a section that is about a 9 inch radius - OK, slightly exagerated, but y'all know where I"m coming from). Atlas has a free downloadable program on its website (Atlasrr.com?) that allows you to do planning on the computer. The program has all of Atlas' track components in its library as well as, I think, templates for various structure kits on the market. Also the numerous Atlas track plan books are out there which use Atlas sectional track. I think both of these (the program and the books) are a great way to have a basic, fun to run layout for a beginner.

Flextrack isn't that hard. It just takes practice, and like you said jacon, its a skill to learn. Instead of looking at it like a burden, I've tried to look at new skills as a challenge. It might take me some time, but when I finally "get it" I'm pretty proud of myself and end up smiling a bunch. Just get some flex track, a good soldering iron, some flux and solder and give it a go! If it doesn't work the first time, try again. If you end up not being able to do it, who cares? It's your hobby and if sectional/EZ track gets you a layout that you can enjoy guess what? You're a successful model railroader!

Dave

[jacon12]

Thanks Brett and Dave. Hopefully in a couple of months I'll have a room roughly 14'x22' to start building benchwork in. I have vacillated between going HO and O, I'll decide to go O because it's bigger and a bit easier to work with. Then I say no, look at all the STUFF available for HO and more coming every day, others lay HO track so with practice you should be able to also. You know, it's like I'm not on some schedule that this has to been done right now. The more I get into the hobby the more I realize all the facets to it, the things you've got to learn to make it all go. And THAT is probably where the pride in it comes in.

[Anonymous]

jacon12,

I know it might seem intimidating at first, but laying flex and cork is easier as you go along. I would suggest checking out the MicroMark tool website and looking for their track laying tools. I found these quite valuable for laying flex, especially the alignment tool for keeping flex track straight. I would also suggest a good book from a LHS. Again, the information in these books are extremely valuable. Start with a long straight section and work from there. The rest becomes easier as you go.

[Anonymous]

jacon - again, dgoodlander is right on the money. Also do some searches on these forums and you'll find dozens of topics and posts that give great pointers on things like soldering rail, curving flex track, laying roadbed, ballasting etc etc. Try 'em out on a piece of scrap wood with some bent up old track and see what works best for you. Good luck!!

[jacon12]

Thank you. I've even thought about taking a scrap piece of plywood and cutting out different radii curves to help keep me on the right track, no pun intended. I will check out the Micro Mark tool website.
Thanks again,

[green_elite_cab]

NEVER EVER USE EZ TRACK unless you plan to put it around the christmas tree, or on the floor. the e-z track never connects well, there are always tiny gaps in between sections that cause derailments. normal track can be pushed together to get a smooth transistion from one section the the next.

you are also limited by ez-tracks small selection and expensive track system. if you want road bed, i heard atlas true track works, and that you can snap the track off the road bed should you see fit.

i know the ins and outs of ez-track cause i have a pile of it, and it works, but causes trouble sometimes. just pay a little extra in cork roadbed, and snap/flex track, it will go a long way, especialy when it comes to wiring

chris

[Anonymous]

Check out Kato Unitrack. I use it in "N" scale and it is bulletproof. It works first time everytime. They make it in "HO" also. More expensive than snaptrack or flex but the frustration level is 0 and it comes in many shapes and sizes. For low prices: check out Toy Train Heaven on the Web. Dave

[Anonymous]

OK I am new to this all and decided to use EZ track because I built shelving around the top of my son's room. I have a power pack that came with a set that was given to my son for a gift. My question is this...I want to run 2 tracks up there and have limited space. Does each track need a seperate power pack to have the trains able to go at different speeds? Can you add power accories to EX track? How does that get done if the accessories are far away from the power pack? Any of you experts that can chime in would be great. Wish I had started this hobby 30 years ago......at least I can now do it with mhy little man.

[selector]

Hi, Your power pack MAY be okay, but only if you add what are called "feeder" wires, in pairs, to each rail about every 6 feet around the layout. This is because the rails, themselves, are only fair conductors. As you run longer lengths of rail, and twinning the tracks, you will get a degradation of the voltage further out from the power source...your power pack. By running a 14 gauge wire near the doubled tracks, and wiring 18 gauge or slightly higher (telephone wire) wires to each track, you are likely to keep a good voltage to all parts of the track. There will still be a drop in voltage, but not so much.

So, no, you don't need two power packs. As for power accessories, you can add them, but they will contribute to the lowering of power available to your locomotives. Think of a hose from which you add little feeder hoses to flower pots. Each feeder hose (a power draw), reduces the volume (amperage) available further down the line. You would do well to add a power pack for those "accessories., and use it for them only, separate wiring and all.

All that said, have you considered DCC (Digital Command and Control)? You could use those dollars to get into DCC, save the older power pack for your accessories, and use the DCC system to get a much more intense and realistic operating context for your trains.

[SpaceMouse]

Jarrell,

My layout is a combo of EZ track and flex.

EZ-track isn't. The track may be cheap at shows, about $1 per piece, but the turnouts are $15 plus and I have had to rebuild several of them. Right now I have one that has failed and it is so deeply integral to the layout, that I am choosing to gerry-rig a tortoise rather than yank it and fix it. They take a considerable amount of work to get them derail-free.

Eventually as I was photographing my layout--I know that something you would never do--I noticed that the the boxcars doors were 1/4 inch higher than all the building docks. I fixed that buy adding foam poster board throughout the layout, then first caulking then plastering the edges to meet the track. Then I had to repaint the track. The upshot is that to fix the height I have spent 3 months not running. It looks "right" now.

I did not have to adjust the flex track and cork.

EZ track isn't--unless you just want a loop on the floor.

[Anonymous]

Thanks a bunch for the info!!! Another question.....after about 15 to 20 minutes of continous run the train will stop, and it seems there might be a small pop sound that comes from the transformer. After a few moments it can run again....Any idea what this might be and a way to correct? Thanks!!!

[selector]

Sounds like t-r-o-u-b-l-e. Your circuit breaker is maybe tripping? It shouldn't for the demand you describe. Time for a new power pack, or, better yet, time to get into DCC.

[Anonymous]

I guess I'm the only individual in the world who has had positive experiences with EZ-track. Nice of Bachmann to that for me.[;)]

IMO, EZ-track is great if your layout is not going to be permanent. I can't begin to think of the hassles of resoldering and renailing the track every time you get a new idea. Or if you have to tear down and move.

On the other hand, flex track and other traditional tracks are far more versatile and with allow you do do more with your layout.

I think you need to evaluate how ready you are to have a permanent or at least semi-permanent layout.

[CraigN]

I believe that EZ track was originally designed for younger hands and Christmas time modelers. Thats why they put it in train sets. It's a great place to start and for those that can only build temporary layouts such as going around the Chistmas tree- it's perfect.

But for building a permanant layout, Cork or foam roadbed and flex track are the cheapest way to go unless you are into handlaying track. I prefer the cork, I have not tried foam yet. Trimming flex track with rail nippers is easy. Leave the handlaying for the expert modelers unless you have experianced handlayers helping you learn.

Craig

[Anonymous]

Building a permanant layout I would use flex track and cork. You have more flexibility than what sectional track has. Don't be intiminated by the use of cork and flex track.

[Anonymous]

Building a permanant layout I would use flex track and cork. You have more flexibility than what sectional track has. Don't be intiminated by the use of cork and flex track.

[fwright]

I have to chime in about some of the misrepresentations of handlaid track. If you can do a nice job with flex track and manufactured turnouts, you already have the skill to handlay track. By nice job, I mean the ability to solder joints and feeders when necessary; curve and fasten the flex without derailing kinks; join the flex to turnouts without kinks or large gaps; and correct point, guard rail and frog problems in your turnouts. These are exactly the same skills you will use in handlaying track - it's just that you will do a lot more of it.

Not that I'm advocating handlaid track for everybody. But I would hate to scare off those who would enjoy laying their own track, and having the pride of watching their favorite train run smoothly over track they built, because they heard hand laying track was only for professionals.

Cost-wise, handlaid track is about the same as flex track. Handlaid turnouts are considerably cheaper (less than $5 each), and can be custom built to fit your situation.

Detail-wise, handlaid track can vary to about equal with common flex track to super detailed with scale spikes, tie plates, throw bars, and the like.

Time depends on detail level. My time starts with the Homasote roadbed in place but nothing else. For simple wood ties with spiked rail (not every tie), I do about 4-6 ft of track in 2 evenings at 2 hrs/evening. This is completed track to good detail - no tie plates, and spiked every 3-5 ties with near scale spikes but does feature painted rail, stained ties, ballasted, uncoupling magnets installed, and feeder wires connected. I wonder how long flex track takes to reach that stage. Each turnout is 2 more evenings at 2 hrs per. Again that yields a finished product in that time. And I am not a fast worker. Using kits such as Fast Tracks or CV ties would likely be faster.

Again, not saying it's for everyone (but I am an adovcate). But I did want to present some realistic expectations for those who want to give handlaid track a try.

yours in tracking
Fred w