Hi,
I'm well into scenicking an 11x15 HO layout, the first layout I've scenicked since the mid 90s. While I was going thru the process, using the same materials from years ago, it occured to me that perhaps this old dog could learn some new tricks. Essentially, there are three areas I'm questioning........
Ground cover - I'm using all kinds of Woodland Scenics foams, died sawdust, coffee grounds, etc., etc. I've been using a 50/50 mix of white glue & water and a drop of detergent as an adhesive. It works ok, but what do you use?
Shrubs - Again, I'm using Woodland Scenics foam clusters and some good ol choice bits of lichen. I've been using an all purpose clear cement for adhesive. It works OK, but is there something better?
Trees - I've got quite a mix with Woodland Scenics "build it yourself" trees being the majority. On my last layout I used hot glue, and on this one I've (so far) used all purpose adhesive. They both work, but neither are ideal in my opinion. What do you use?
So far what I am doing looks "OK", but I'm open to a better way..................
Thank you !
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
As far as trees, for larger ones, I drill the trunk and insert a piece of wire which I then insert into the layout. That way the trees are removable and positionable.
Richard
Tried and true still work.
For ground cover I use a 3:1 mix with white glue rather than 50/50.
For shrubs and puffball trees I use straight white glue. I did put it on each puffball, but next time I may try painting a layer of glue on then adding the tree tops.
I do as above, putting a wire in my WS trees as I have a foam base, makes it easy to put them in and move if necessary. (May fill the hole and modify some of the stumps to represent a cut over area.) Usually put a dob of white glue in the hole, keeps the trees from moving without a little effort. My trees made from natural bushes are also pushed into a pre-made hole with a dob of glue in it.
Tacky glue comes in handy for scenic items like people, animals, fences and the like. I also prefer it to WS brand for attaching foliage to their armatures.
I don't have a big layout and have not done a lot of scenery work, but these methods have worked well for me. I know some folks seem to like to use scenic cement, if it works well for them, they should use it. I have found that buying Elmers White Glue in the handy little bottles when on sale at Wal-Mart was cheaper per ounce than buying a gallon. Soon I ended up with extra bottles to put my glue mix and wet water mixes in and any other thing I could find a use for them. Also, no need to pour from a gallon jug into a smaller container. Just seemed handy and since it was less expensive I bought quite a few bottles at Back to School time.
I think this is one place that though there are new products, the old methods compete well as to effectiveness and price.
Have fun,
For ground cover, I spray isopropyl alcohol first, then apply a 4:1 water / matte medium mix.
For shrubs, I apply a dab od scenic cement and stick the shrub in place.
For trees, I drill a shallow hole slightly larger than the trunk, then stick the tree in place with a dab of hot glue.
plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose.
Rich
Alton Junction
For armatures and utility/power poles, I drill and insert. No wires inserted in the bottoms of them for me.
For scenic foams, I pre-wet, then spray liberally with a glue/water/soap mix, sprinkle at least two different blends of finer foam, spray, sprinkle a sparse dusting of flocking, spray, and then individually pull apart to size and glue small clumps of 'bushes' foam to the scenery. I dip the clumps into straight wood glue.
Crandell
selector I dip the clumps into straight wood glue. Crandell
I dip the clumps into straight wood glue.
Crandell, doesn't that leave a yellowish residue when it dries?
Ground cover is 50/50 glue. I will also use diluted, decanted (gets rid of the talc and white stains) matt medium solution as well.
For the shrubs, I don't glue them down unless i have them in an area that will likely get disturbed and then it is full strength white glue.
The advantage of the white glue solutions is that you can remove/fix things with water.
Trees - I've used crazy glue for this for at least a decade now.... No holes to drill, no hot glue strings, no burns (no matter how careful I am...) and no waiting for the glue to harden.
Hold the tree in place, dribble some thick CA at the base - hit it with CA accelerator and voila....Don't like the placement? Break it off at the base and try again... Put the accelerant in a needle applicator - cuts down on the smell and keeps the chemicals right where you put them...
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
50-50 white glue and water with a few drops of detergent.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
For Shrugs and Puff Ball Trees
Clear Latex Caulking - Holds great when wet so the Clump Foliage can be applied to hillsides
Goes on White - Dries Clear
I use a Caulking Gun and apply a glob to the Clump and then stick onto the scenery base
Works great on to stick onto Plaster - Foam - Ceiling Tile Rocks - Homasote - Paint
Everyone says how great it is for Track and Cork - so I figured it should work for Scenery - it does!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
cmrproducts Clear Latex Caulking - Holds great when wet so the Clump Foliage can be applied to hillsides Goes on White - Dries Clear I use a Caulking Gun and apply a glob to the Clump and then stick onto the scenery base
Bob,
That is one of the best scenery ideas I have heard in along time.
Thanks
Jim
I love that stuff (Clear Latex Caulking) and I use it all the time!
I buy the stuff by the case!
Bob H - Clarion, PA
richhotrain selector I dip the clumps into straight wood glue. Crandell Crandell, doesn't that leave a yellowish residue when it dries? Rich
I would say that it does not, Rich.
http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/J1Highlandfinalpubversres.jpg
Outdoors in natural sunlight, same glue and ground foam product line:
http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/SecondOutdoordiorama_editedres.jpg
Hi!
Thanks for the responses - I really appreciate them.
Funny thing, I thought of using clear caulk but didn't want the odor. I was obviously thinking of silicone cauking (non latex) and never thought of using latex clear caulk. I do believe I will try that, for I have an awful lot of shrubs left to place around the outside perimeter of the layout (where the layout meets the painted backdrop).
Please, we would love to hear more of your ideas!
mobilman44 Please, we would love to hear more of your ideas!
Who is "we" ? Do you have multiple personalities???
I have been using Elmer's diluted with alcohol but I am intrigued by the caulk method and will probably give it a try.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Picked up a tube of latex clear caulk w/o silicone at Lowes this morning. While there is a massive display of caulks, ther is only one non silicone latex clear - Loctite All Purpose Crystal Clear.
Have to say, it works like a charm, and definitely beats out the contact ahesive I was using.
Thanks for the tip!
mobilman44 Hi, Picked up a tube of latex clear caulk w/o silicone at Lowes this morning. While there is a massive display of caulks, ther is only one non silicone latex clear - Loctite All Purpose Crystal Clear. Have to say, it works like a charm, and definitely beats out the contact ahesive I was using. Thanks for the tip!
What did you use it on? The shrubs?
I have been working on a new layout for about two years now and I am just starting to do the scenery work. I am allways looking for better looking materials, better ways to do it. This time I am using a product called Fusion Fiber and I have been very happy with the results. My layout is in a second level of my shop and so I have tried to keep the weight down so the base is all foam and the Fusion Fiber is very light weight so I will not have a lot of plaster except for rock castings. The fiber can be tinted with cheap acrylic paints and I think it has a glue in it as foams and material will stick to it when its dry. Plus what I like is if I dont use it all up all I have to do is re wet it and its good to go unlike plaster and other stuff once its dry it's thrown away. I have practiced alot with alot of materials and found ones that I like to make trees out of, even making my own leaves out of real dried leaves. The white diluted Elmers is still my choice or matte medium for glue and I have also gone to the static grass as I really think it looks more realistic than foam but I do use the foam under the grass for base colors. I also use hair spray when making trees instead of the glue, I like White Rain in a pump spray, it works very well and its cheap. I also have moved on to alot of Scenic Express material, Silflor and such, its a little more expensive but it is very nice stuff and it looks so more realistic. I made some very good looking tomatoe plants out of silflor stuff and I made 10 x's more than 1 package of 12 JTT ones for the same price and they looked so much better. I could go on but just look around and see whats on the market, there are so many new items, but use your imagination because with a little thought and work you can make more realistic looking stuff for not alot of money.
Good Luck and have fun!
Dugan
YES - I agree that foreground trees need to be Super Trees!
I use the Half Puff Ball method and when using the Latex Caulk holds the Puff Ball very close to the base material and I am able to crowd the Puff Balls very close together eliminating the SEE THROUGH which I very much dislike!
Once I figured out cutting the Puff Balls in half (which works great with a large Paper Cutter) made the process work much better as well as looking better.
One area I have on my layout is a very large area representing hills around the Allegheny River valley and it is an actual 3 ft high by 40 feet around an end peninsula.
It has 2500 puffs on it.
Once the Puffs were all in - I went back and place SEDUM Flower heads covered with foam at a slight angle to the hill - giving the impression that part of the tree is growing above the rest as it is in real life.
I will be using the SUPER TREES at the bottom of the hill in transition to the foreground.
I just have to begin working with them and get comfortable making them as once I get going I will need to place probably a thousand or more on the layout! I have 3of the LARGE boxs of the 300 to 400 Super Trees under the layout ready to begin that part of the scenery project.
That is one of the problems when modeling Western PA - Lots of trees!
The tube caulk I just bought (see earlier posting) works especially good for large areas of shrubs. I'm using a lot of them, especially on the outside perimeter of the layout, and the sides of the "canyon" where the track goes to the lower level staging area.
For smaller and more delicate areas, and areas especially in the foreground, I use the woodland scenics scenery cement. It is much easier and more precise to handle. But of course, it is much more expensive.
I use 50:50 diluted white glue for ground cover and ballast, and straight Tacky Glue, wood glue or white glue for attaching just about everything else to the layout.
I use a lot of CA and accelerator to build tree armatures, and 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to attach foam to trees and bushes. I usually drill holes for larger trees. If the tree fits tightly in the hole I'll secure it with tacky/white/yellow glue, but otherwise I've used hot glue or CA.
Rob Spangler
Hi again,
Just wanted to thank those that mentioned using the clear latex caulk for attaching shrubs. I did a fair size section yesterday and it took about 1/4 the time when I was using all purpose glue, and the mess on my hands was minimal and washed off fairly easy.
Coincidently, on this layout I used latex caulk for attaching cork roadbed, and that worked out quite well too!
ENJOY!