Some of my turnouts have white glue and ballast overflow. Although there are only 7, three of them are kind of sticky. My track is atlas,with some code 80 flex, and not tacked down, only ballasted. Any advise on how to free the turnout. I was just going to keep some water on it every night. I really do not wish to break the turnout. Any advise?
Thanks.
Since they are not really fastened down, I would pull them and take then to a sink and start cleaning them with a soft tooth brush and warm soapy water. Pouring water over them may work on a temp basis, but the water based glue will just harden again later.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Forgot to mention, i removed all of the turnouut motors, manual and electric before i did the ballast.
Hi W,
Oh boy, been there, done it. I'd say the easiest way as Jim said lift them and go easy with the brush.
Once you're back to a clean turnout, and this is where it gets tricky. You need to borrow the boss's hair-dryer (if she'll let you have it ) or a hot gun, from a mate if you ain't got one and dry off round the tie bar and blades every 5 minutes or so till they are dry and free moving.
When you re-fit em, I'd use a dropper to get the PVA close to the blades and flick em every 15mins or so till the it skins over, about 2hrs at room temp, then, just keep an eye on em till it's gone off.
Be in touch.
pick
First, when applying the ballast, use it sparingly around the moving parts, and there should be none in the space where the throwbar is located. If you wish, that area can be painted black or dark grey to disguise the fact that there's no ballast. Make sure to remove all ballast from the tops of the ties. As long as the spaces between the ties aren't filled right to the top with ballast, an easy method is to lightly grasp your ballast-spreading brush by its ferrule, laying the handle flat across the rails, and lightly and rapidly tap the handle with the fingers of your free hand as you move the brush along the track. The ballast granules will magically bounce from the tie tops and into the spaces between them.
Before wetting the ballast, apply a couple of drops of plastic-compatible oil to the tops of all ties over which the points move - I like to place a drop beside each point rail, then move the points back and forth until the oil is spread - the real railroads often applied grease on these areas, so it's not unprototypical. Next, park the points in a mid-throw position, so that they don't touch either of the stock rails. If the points are sprung, a small piece of styrene may be used to block them in position.
Now, mist the area with "wet" water, making sure to apply enough to soak the ballast right down to its bottom, then apply your diluted white glue. I like to use a plastic applicator bottle which dispenses it in drops, making sure to take care around the throwbar area. Allow this to dry fully - at least overnight, and longer if necessary. Once the area is dry, carefully attempt to move the points - occasionally, they'll be partially stuck, but some judicious prodding should get them moving without causing any damage.
Wayne
doctorwayne First, when applying the ballast, use it sparingly around the moving parts, and there should be none in the space where the throwbar is located. If you wish, that area can be painted black or dark grey to disguise the fact that there's no ballast. Make sure to remove all ballast from the tops of the ties. As long as the spaces between the ties aren't filled right to the top with ballast, an easy method is to lightly grasp your ballast-spreading brush by its ferrule, laying the handle flat across the rails, and lightly and rapidly tap the handle with the fingers of your free hand as you move the brush along the track. The ballast granules will magically bounce from the tie tops and into the spaces between them. Before wetting the ballast, apply a couple of drops of plastic-compatible oil to the tops of all ties over which the points move - I like to place a drop beside each point rail, then move the points back and forth until the oil is spread - the real railroads often applied grease on these areas, so it's not unprototypical. Next, park the points in a mid-throw position, so that they don't touch either of the stock rails. If the points are sprung, a small piece of styrene may be used to block them in position. Now, mist the area with "wet" water, making sure to apply enough to soak the ballast right down to its bottom, then apply your diluted white glue. I like to use a plastic applicator bottle which dispenses it in drops, making sure to take care around the throwbar area. Allow this to dry fully - at least overnight, and longer if necessary. Once the area is dry, carefully attempt to move the points - occasionally, they'll be partially stuck, but some judicious prodding should get them moving without causing any damage. Wayne
SP&S modeler, 1960's give or take a decade or two for some equipment.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SGTDUPREY?feature=guide
Gary DuPrey
N scale model railroader
If you do remove your turnouts, paint the area (cork or whatever roadbead you are using) with a color similiar to our ballast. This way you do not to ballast very heavily at all to get it to look like it is ballasted. There are some textured paints that look very realistic.
Good luck,
Richard