Hello, I'm new to this hobby, am currently planning a layout that will be approx 8' X 12". I can't decide whether to use "flex track" or "e-z track" with the road bed attached. I'm leaning towards the flex track even though I already have some of the e-z track from a train set that was purchased. I am planning on having two levels with the staging yard on the lower level and a helix up to the upper level. What type of track do you recommend? Can the two types of track be incorporated together? Also, I will be using a number of 85' and 86' cars. Should I plan on 24" radius? Finally {for now} what is the use and purpose of a "tortoise" switch? Thank You. John
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I personally use code 83 flex (HO scale), minimum 22" radius. I generally don't run such large equipment on it, though I expect you could if you don't mind it looking strange. You say 8'x12", if I interpret that literally, that's 8 feet by 12 *inches*. I'm guessing you actually mean 8 by 12 *feet*, which is about the same area I'm working in, and surprisingly enough, have a similar concept in mind as far as staging, and helix to the "main" level. A "Tortoise" is not a "switch", per se, but is a machine that is designed to move and hold the switch (turnout) points in one direction or the other.
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Welcome to the forums.
Yes, you can mix flex track and E-Z track. I would keep all the E-Z together and just cut the tab off each end, then butt your cork sub roadbed up to it. I believe E-Z is code 100 track, so if you use code 100 flex track it should match up with the same size rail joiner. You may have to shim the cork a bit to get an exact match of height at the joint between the two types. Otherwise it should be no problem.
For long cars to "look good" you may want even larger radius curves. Take a piece of flex track, lay it out to various radius curves and put your cars on it. See how they look to you. The wider they are the better they will look and run.
Atlas flex track is the least expensive and seems to have a pretty good reputation. The main complaint I have seen here is about it's appearance. It is also the most flexible, which some find helpful, other folks prefer a stiffer track.
A Tortoise is a brand switch machine used to turn your switches. I understand it does it slowly (more prototypical) than ones like the Atlas machines which snap the switch quickly. There again, cost and personal acceptance varies. The Tortoise is an under table mounted machine. You can get either for Atlas switches, but their under table are a bit limited on table thickness. The surface mount Atlas machines do not look prototypical at all, but there have been several posts here where people have disguised them quite well in various ways.
A helix with 24" radius track will take up a good 5' for it's outside demention, most of your 8'. I would suggest you think about other options before using that percentage of your space for it. Maybe someone with a similar sized room can give you come advice.
Good luck,
Richard
driver20 I am planning on having two levels with the staging yard on the lower level and a helix up to the upper level.
If you have never built a layout before, a helix might not be the best choice for your first layout. These take up a lot of space, are more than a bit tricky to build, and need to be pretty large to work reliably with a wide variety of equipment.
A helix adds the friction of tight curves to the steep grade -- a real problem for reliability. Especially with the long cars you are talking about, you will need broad curves in a helix.
driver20Should I plan on 24" radius?
You'd probably need much broader for the helix for reliability. Many experienced modelers have found 28" radius and up a better choice for the helix itself.
If you use EZ Track or any other click track elsewhere, you'll want to use flex in the helix, both for improved clearance and for fewer track joints.
But honestly, a helix is not a beginner's project.
Best of luck.
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cuyama driver20: I am planning on having two levels with the staging yard on the lower level and a helix up to the upper level. If you have never built a layout before, a helix might not be the best choice for your first layout. These take up a lot of space, are more than a bit tricky to build, and need to be pretty large to work reliably with a wide variety of equipment. A helix adds the friction of tight curves to the steep grade -- a real problem for reliability. Especially with the long cars you are talking about, you will need broad curves in a helix. driver20: Should I plan on 24" radius? You'd probably need much broader for the helix for reliability. Many experienced modelers have found 28" radius and up a better choice for the helix itself. If you use EZ Track or any other click track elsewhere, you'll want to use flex in the helix, both for improved clearance and for fewer track joints. But honestly, a helix is not a beginner's project. Best of luck.
driver20: I am planning on having two levels with the staging yard on the lower level and a helix up to the upper level.
driver20: Should I plan on 24" radius?
I'll second that. Helices are not for the faint of heart or beginners. Honestly, I've been in this hobby 20+ years, and I've never built one. The plan I'm working on now, I'm still debating whether to try for a helix, or a "no-lix" (short for "no helix"), which is usually an around-the-walls constant grade up to a 2nd level (in our cases, from staging to the main level). These work well if you have a plan that climbs uphill to a summit (of sorts), and you can continue from the summit "behind the scenes" to the 2nd level. Of course, from staging to the main level won't be as much of a concern, except addressing how it "enters the scene", be it a tunnel entrance, behind a hill, behind a town, or whatever. That's *probably* what I'll end up doing, to avoid a helix (and the steep grades needed by a 22" radius curve).
For those keeping track, I'm using a 9x12'8" area, and I do *not* wish to have a swing/lift out bridge (young ones might get a bit careless). That, and I saw another plan that I wish to adapt to my layout (still in progress).
cowman Yes, you can mix flex track and E-Z track. I would keep all the E-Z together and just cut the tab off each end, then butt your cork sub roadbed up to it. I believe E-Z is code 100 track, so if you use code 100 flex track it should match up with the same size rail joiner. You may have to shim the cork a bit to get an exact match of height at the joint between the two types. Otherwise it should be no problem.
Would it be appropriate to just cut a notch in the roadbed for the tab on the E-Z track? Seems a shame to ruin the piece of track in case it gets re-purposed in the future.
No reason why it should not work. Just be sure to fill any gaps with caulk, putty or anything else similar, so that when you do your ballasting you won't have to fill it with that.
Just so you will know. Others have successfully painted the ties and added some ballast to E-Z track to make it look more realistic. Takes a bit of work, but it does make it look more like the rest of the trackwork. If you go to the right hand column on these pages, scroll down to Search our Community and search for Ballasting E-Z track should get you some ideas on how they have done it.
I would go with some version of "click track" rather than flextrack. Flextrack and cork roadbed aren't all that easy to do, and you often get kinks over time as the weather changes. I'd say, even if you have some track, to go with Kato Unitrack. It's code 83 and very realistic.
Go with one of the tracks with the roadbed attached, it will keep you in the hobby as you are new at this. Basicly it is alot harder to screw up this type. Later as you skills improve, you can tackle more advanced stuff. Best peice of advice is to get the mainline up and running asap, then you can go back and do other stuff.