No sooner did I sing the praises of Model Master Liquid Cement than the needle nose applicator has glue stuck in it and I cannot get any through it no matter how hard I squeeze. OK, so I have had it for awhile. So, I open up a brand new one, same problem.
Any suggestions for freeing it up? The active ingredient is Xylene.
Rich
Alton Junction
Funny, because I've been using the cement for years, and I've never had a problem. I am, however, religious about putting the cap on, even just loosely set on the top when I'm not using it.
I have, from time to time, had the glue harden on the OUTSIDE of the needle. Scraping it with a hobby knife clears the problem.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
richhotrain No sooner did I sing the praises of Model Master Liquid Cement than the needle nose applicator has glue stuck in it and I cannot get any through it no matter how hard I squeeze. OK, so I have had it for awhile. So, I open up a brand new one, same problem. Any suggestions for freeing it up? The active ingredient is Xylene. Rich
Rich, I use Faller Xpert and Model Masters. There is a little trick to keeping that real handy needle aplicator clear. As I use the cement, I will periodically upright the bottle and give it a few gentle "puffs/ squeezes" to clear out the needle tube. If you set it down for even 5-10 minutes place the cap on. Occasionally, when the needle clogs, just run a match or lighter along the metal tube and then upright the bottle as you squeeze. Both of these cements are quite excellent and the applicator allows for fine placement of the glue as you have probably already noticed. I do find that there seems to be less problems w/ the Faller Xpert tube as compared to the testor's.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Richotrain,
I've used that adhesive since it came out, having had one container for several years. A couple of hints.......
- Always store the container rightside up.
- Wipe off any buildup on the applicator.
- If you sense any partial clogging, insert a wire to clear it before its a full clog.
Hope that helps you out!
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
bogp40 Occasionally, when the needle clogs, just run a match or lighter along the metal tube and then upright the bottle as you squeeze.
Occasionally, when the needle clogs, just run a match or lighter along the metal tube and then upright the bottle as you squeeze.
Well, I'll be darned. That did it. Thanks a bunch.
I have several little wires that came with glue, just for the purpose of unplugging the spout. I do use the "puff" method and keep the bottle upright, saves having to use the little wires. If you don't have one of the little wires, a piece of paino wire will work just fine.
Glad the heat method worked, just don't set your glue on fire.
Good luck,
Richard
cowman I have several little wires that came with glue, just for the purpose of unplugging the spout. I do use the "puff" method and keep the bottle upright, saves having to use the little wires. If you don't have one of the little wires, a piece of paino wire will work just fine. Glad the heat method worked, just don't set your glue on fire. Good luck, Richard
When I read that comment about the little wire that came with the glue, I thought DUH. But when I looked in the packaging on the new one that I opened yesterday, there was no little wire.
But that got me searching. Something that I have on my shelf comes with a small wire but for the life of me I cannot remember what it is and I cannot locate the packaging that contains it. Now, this is driving me nuts. HELP! What else comes with a litle length of wire ???
I believe a do it yourself "garrote kit" comes with a piece of wire...................
Another trick to keep it from happening, at least it works with CA, is to sharply rap the bottle on your bench before puttign the cap back on. Like setting down a glass hard. This seems to make sure any glue int he spout runs back intot he bottle so it can't harden in the nozzle. Don;t break the bottle, you don't have to slam it that hard. The bottle of thick CA I got to do my resistor wheels never clogged between sessions, and it has a special applicator nozzle to dispense small drops one at a time - critical for working with the tiny resistors since too much glue means the glue gets ont he contact ends and insulates them.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
richhotrain bogp40: Occasionally, when the needle clogs, just run a match or lighter along the metal tube and then upright the bottle as you squeeze. Well, I'll be darned. That did it. Thanks a bunch. Rich
bogp40: Occasionally, when the needle clogs, just run a match or lighter along the metal tube and then upright the bottle as you squeeze.
BIG JERR richhotrain: bogp40: Occasionally, when the needle clogs, just run a match or lighter along the metal tube and then upright the bottle as you squeeze. Well, I'll be darned. That did it. Thanks a bunch. Rich eek;aren't the contents flammable
richhotrain: bogp40: Occasionally, when the needle clogs, just run a match or lighter along the metal tube and then upright the bottle as you squeeze. Well, I'll be darned. That did it. Thanks a bunch. Rich
The contents are flammable as I found out when I applied the open flame to the needle nose applicator. It looked like a mini flame thrower.
If you don't have a little wire you can strip the plastic off a twist tie and the wire inside will fit perfectly inside the needle and clear it out. I have learned this the hard way since I am not always that diligent about replacing the top or clearing the needle after i have used the glue.
Michael
The two bottles both failed again yesterday. This time around, I decided to forego the open flame and use one of my wife's sewing needles instead. That did the trick. I don't get it though. I have used this product for years and never had the problem before.
I suspect its a gradual buildup inside that finally closed. I guess that's why they give us the little wire thingee to run thru there periodically.
Lots of good advice on the subject in this thread: store the container upright, blow air thru nozzle when done, run a wire thru every once in awhile, and the like.
Yeah, but one of them was a brand new unopened bottle still in the original packaging.
Maybe it is the temperature and humidity conditions in my basement.
mobilman44 Richotrain, I suspect its a gradual buildup inside that finally closed. I guess that's why they give us the little wire thingee to run thru there periodically. Lots of good advice on the subject in this thread: store the container upright, blow air thru nozzle when done, run a wire thru every once in awhile, and the like.
The only trouble w/ using a wire to clear the tube is that all you are doing is shoving minute, dried chunks of cement into the bottle. This is true with clearing almost any kind of container even caulking tubes. Those pieces of crud will over time either cause addional clogs or contaminate the product. Puffing or clearing the applicator then sealing is far better.
I like that hint about tapping the CA down sharply to allow the glue to clear the nozzle. I will also place a small piece of plastic over the nose of the CA applicator before placing on the cap. This acts as a "gasket" and prevents air from entering as well as allowing the CA to bond the cap on. On new bottles it's not as much as a problem, however, as us continually use the product the continued build up of dried CA within the cap will bond to the nose. You will notice that many times pliers may be needed to "crush" the cap to break it free. The plastic allows for a separation barrior of sorts for decent cap removal. For some reason, I have found that Satalite "Hot Stuff" Ca to be one of the best workable and lasting CA's that I've used. It is not found that easily as Zap and others. Go Figure.
And as far as using a flame to clear, works every time. Yes, the product is "flamable", but your not squirting this stuff or dumping it out on the workbench then igniting it. If this were the case then a plumber's torch or acetalene torch would become a bomb w/ the tanks exploding....Every time they are lit.
Bob,
Lots of good info there.
Interestingly, whether it is supposed to or not, the needle nose applicator is easily removed from the tip of the plastic bottle. So I removed the applicator first and then used the sewing needle to clean out any gummy residue inside of the needle nose applicator.
richhotrain Interestingly, whether it is supposed to or not, the needle nose applicator is easily removed from the tip of the plastic bottle. So I removed the applicator first and then used the sewing needle to clean out any gummy residue inside of the needle nose applicator.
I'd think that would be the first thing done in trying to clear it.
While I don't use the MM glue/applicator, I do use a similar setup (a glass pipette with a hollow syringe for applying via capillary action). When it get's clogged (as occasionally it does), I simply let it stand in the glue for a minute and it will clear.
Couldn't you simply invert the nozzle into the glue container and let it soak for a minute to clear/loosen?
richhotrain The two bottles both failed again yesterday. This time around, I decided to forego the open flame and use one of my wife's sewing needles instead. That did the trick. I don't get it though. I have used this product for years and never had the problem before. Rich
My bottle of Model Master came with a piece of wire.
You used a sewing needle? My wife does a lot of sewing and has a variety of needles. I just tried a common straight pin and it has a diameter too large to fit down that tube. If the tube on your bottle has a diameter large enough to fit a sewing needle through, I don't see how it ever clogs.
now I got one of the bottles w/ needle tip and clean out wire,I think it by a-1 . Any how was going to use straite MEK the main ingredent in solvent glues . since its a solvent it doesnt clot it evaporates .so would it clog ? ....Jerry
BIG JERR now I got one of the bottles w/ needle tip and clean out wire,I think it by a-1 . Any how was going to use straite MEK the main ingredent in solvent glues . since its a solvent it doesnt clot it evaporates .so would it clog ? ....Jerry
MEK will just evaporate as you figured, look at how fast the liquid "Testor"s" will evaporate compared to other styrene cements. I don't know the actual formula or added products in the Model Masters or Faller, but from noticing the way they perform, I am assuming that there is a additive to slightly thicken and slow the drying. The reason I really like the Faller Xpert is that the cement will gail an initial hold yet still allow for some minor repositioning of the parts. You can also wipe off any excess w/o marring the surrounding factory painting surfaces ( of coarse done rather quickly) This will not happen w/ straight MEK.
These additives to other cements are the dried parts that are causing the clogging in the first place.
Amazing how much we can talk about glueing to pieces of plastic together.....