Where can I purchase 3M Scotchloc ( suitecase connectors ) in bulk, need about 150-200. Who has best prices. My local home Depot only has them in 5 packs.
Hey woodman
I got mine from Micro Mark and they have worked well. Beats soldering under the layout. Try this link.
http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=suitcase+connector
There is a special tool but I have a set of pliers that does the job
Happy Railroading
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
I got mine from Grainger.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Insulation-Displacement-Connector-4YT74?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Insulation-Displacement-Connector-4YT79?Pid=search
ratled
Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”
Go to:
www.mouser.com
Here are the part numbers:
517-905 18-14 AWG Bus/22-18 AWG Feeder
517-567 12-10 AWG Bus/18-14 AWG Feeder
These are the two most useful sizes. I bought mine for around 18 cents each in bulk. Make sure you use a good crimp tool to really force the blades into the wire with a good 'pop'. I have over 150 of them on my layout, and NO voltage drop issues anywhere. Some folks swear by them, some swear at them. We had a bad connection at the club. After tracing it down, I found that the IDC was not fully seated - You can either buy one of the expensive 'tools' or use a good pair of channel locks so that the blades are forced down all the way. BTW, re-crimping with my channel locks fixed the club's problem.
Another good tool is the Ideal Stripmaster wire stripper - you can cut a section out of the middle of a wire so slick you will be amazed. Wrap the feeder to it and solder. Paint it with matching insulation paint and you are good to go. I picked mine up at Lowes for about $25.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I bought my last box from a local electrical supply house.
Enjoy
Paul
Check out MicroMark.Search for Suitcase connectors "red". I didn't provide the direct link because I cannot get it to work properly.
I bought mine in bags of 25 (as the listing says).
Colin ---------- There's just no end to cabooseless trains.
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Amazon.com sells 100 for under 10 bucks...
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-Blue-18-14-Pcs/dp/B0002BFZ8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1298910383&sr=1-2
-Ed
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit." -Aristotle
I'm using Napa auto stores "T Connectors" with suitcase style closure. Several layouts in our area use them and they're economical. I was concerned about using them compared with the 3Ms but there's an old post here where guys had dragged these connectors through rain and mud for years without issues so that made me more comfortable. Been in place for over a year and no problems so far. Used channel locks also.
Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
Use Posi-taps instead, much easier to use and more reliable and cheap when bought in bulk!
IRONROOSTER I bought my last box from a local electrical supply house. Enjoy Paul
+1.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
woodman Where can I purchase 3M Scotchloc ( suitecase connectors ) in bulk, need about 150-200. Who has best prices. My local home Depot only has them in 5 packs.
I would try an electrical supply store. They would have them in bulk packages. They usually have a minimum purchase price but you would probably be over that amount. Good luck.
Trainnut
jrbernier [snip] Another good tool is the Ideal Stripmaster wire stripper - you can cut a section out of the middle of a wire so slick you will be amazed. Wrap the feeder to it and solder. Paint it with matching insulation paint and you are good to go. I picked mine up at Lowes for about $25. Jim
[snip]
Let me second Jim's recommendation, which might otherwise get lost in this thread. I'm using a Stripmaster that was my father's. It's at least 50 years old, functions perfectly, and is indispensable. I can't imagine wiring without it.
Rick Krall
Guys,
Please enlighten me a bit as I am mechanically inclined but don't always stay abreast with electrical applications.
Can these suitcase connectors, which I've use in automotive applications, be useful in the case of connecting a layout's buss wiring to feeders that go up to the rails? I was taught "old school" in that proper soldering assures the most solid connection for electrical continuity. However, I must admit that I would take a quicker route if it could deliver the same quality.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
I purchase at a local elec, supply (State Elect.) in packs of 50 for 6 bucks or so. They are not Scotch brand but work just fine
jerrold.
Antonio FP45 writes:
"Can these suitcase connectors, which I've use in automotive applications, be useful in the case of connecting a layout's buss wiring to feeders that go up to the rails?"
Yes. You'll never have to crawl under the layout to solder a feeder to the bus again. I've soldered enough feeders to a bus in my time to want to avoid that unpleasant task whenever possible.
Rob Spangler
Thank you Rob!
I use these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350376416804&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
100 for $8.25 w/free shipping.
Shaun
I don't recommend any of the imitations that are cheaper. Stick with the 3M Scotchloks. They also have two blades which is better. My biggest worry with the imitation is that the metal might corrode and you've got bad contact problems. Many have reported that. No offense to the Chinese but when they make something, they make it as cheap as possible often with bad results for the consumer. The 3M Scothloks are made stateside. Contact problems are something that might not show up until later after you've done a lot of wiring. You'd almost have to start over.
Even though I used the 3M version I put some conductive goop in them before I closed them as an added assurance for conductivity and to fend off corrosion. Reportedly, corrosion is more common in higher humidity.
As to the crimp tool, I bought the expensive 3M ones that Micro Mark sells. I really am sorry for that. You have to switch the inserts depending on which connector you're using and its a real pain! Mine broke too as it will not open wide enough anymore.
I have since switched over to a much less expensive pair of large lineman pliers and they work great and I am also crimping No. 10 wire.
I bought my 3M Scotchloks from Mouser. Of course, the more you buy the cheaper unit cost. I used a lot more than I expected and had to go back and order two more boxes. I like this better than soldering.
You are going to hear a lot of 'pro & con' from all the experts(especially the ones who have never built a large layout). My current layout uses the 3M product, and I have had NO problems since wiring started(1991). The key to using IDC's is that they must be crimped down with the correct tool. You can buy the expensive 'tool' or use a good pair of large channel-locks - just make sure you drive the blades in all the way and that the cover 'clicks' in good.
If you want to 'solder', I suggest you buy something like an Ideal Stripmaster wire stripper - It will strip a sectrion out of the middle of you buss wire without nicking the metal, and you can wrap/solder the actual feeder to the bus. Red or Black insulation paint from the local hardware or home improvement store will seal/insulate the joint after you solder it - it goes pretty fast. As with anything, having the 'right' tools and knowing how to use them goes a long way!
Thanks for the input. If I can ask a favor...........
Would appreciate it if any of you have photos of the suitcase connectors on your layouts; especially in the case of buss wires connected to feeder and/or turnout wires.
Thank you
Here's a picture of a 3M suitcase connector installed on the bus with feeder wires. As you can tell it was dark under the layout
Hope this helps
They're use all over this layout
Thousands of these suitcase connectors and rarely any failure. Ones that give trouble are usually from improper installation.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I'd be interested in hearing any "updated" reports from folks who've used the Napa auto parts or similar T connectors. There are 3 layouts in our round robin group who've used them so far with no issues.
They're smaller than 3ms but very easy to trouble shoot with due to the large (relatively) T connector. Easy to pull off with some determination but they stay secure otherwise.
I live in a temperate climate without a lot of humidity but my layout has spent 2.5 years with swings from 45% humidity to 80% briefly without issues. I DO take care to shut my train room door when steamy showers are taking place in the bathroom next door and when cooking is going on in the kitchen on the other end of the cottage. Greasy smoke from frying ,etc. can't do these types of connectors any good.
Other than that they've required no other "babying" so far. I figure if they give trouble way down the road I can replace them or solder everything up.
Anyway would like to hear from other auto parts stores suitcase connector users.
I purchased mine from WayTec, Inc., P.O. Box 690, Chanhassen, MN 55317, Ph # 800-328-2724, www.waytecwire.com. They have a full assortment of Scotchloc's as well as many other items suitable to model railroading. I have ordered from them several times and can't say enough good about their customer service reps.
Your link contains an error. There is one of those sites that intercept mistyped URLs at that address.
The correct link is www.waytekwire.com
Recovering former former model railroader.
Good Day
You might want to try ebay.
uncrichard