About five years ago, I started ballasting the double mainline track on my HO layout. More recently, I had to re-ballasting several areas after making modifications to the track configuration. My feeling is that I have vastly improved my ballasting skills over what they were five years ago.
My layout is built on a 2x4 framework with a 1/2 inch plywood surface. I use Atlas flex track on top of Woodland Scenics 5mm Foam Track Bed.
This was my procedure five years ago. I made a 2 to 1 mix of Woodland Scenics Medium Ballast Light Gray (2 parts) to Woodland Scenics Medium Ballast Gray (1 part).
I spread the ballast heavily over the track and roadbed, using a metal tablespoon, then smoothed it out with my index finger. I then applied “wet water”, distilled water with a few drops of dish liquid dish washing detergent, through the use of a spray bottle. The idea was that the wet water would prepare the surface for better absorption of the glue. Next, I used a mix of 1 part matte medium to 1 part water with a few drops of liquid dish washing detergent mixed in. I applied the glue mix with an eyedropper. The guys at my local hobby shop recommended this entire procedure to me.
I found that there were several problems with this procedure. First, the ballast needs to be applied and smoothed more carefully than I had done it. My rather careless method of application left too much ballast on the rails and too many “runs” of ballast along the sides of the track destroying any hope of a manicured look. Second, wet water is not entirely effective in promoting absorption of the glue without puddling or pooling. Third, the mix of matte medium to water was too concentrated, resulting in too hard a formulation when dry, and it took too long to dry.
On my latest attempt, I was pretty satisfied with the results. First, I applied the ballast with a metal tablespoon once again, but this time I started by applying the ballast right just inside the rails pulling the tablespoon along as I went. Next, placing the bottom of the tablespoon on both rails, I tilted the tablespoon left or right to dump the ballast off the side of the tablespoon and down the tapered sides of the foam roadbed. I repeated this process until the roadbed was completely covered, nicely tapered, and about 1/2 inch wide on either side. Then, I used a 3/8 inch wide paint brush to settle and distribute the ballast. I started inside the rails and brushed along the track until the ballast was completely settled inside, but not on top of, the ties. Then, I took the brush along the outside of each rail so that the excess ballast fell between the ties or down the tapered slope, completely cleaning off the outsides of the ties.
Then, I substituted 70% rubbing alcohol for wet water and sprayed about 18 inches at a time. The rubbing alcohol is completely effective in preparing the ballast for the glue mix. With it, no pooling of the glue mix; without it, terrible pooling and awful results.
Lastly, I diluted the matte medium on a 4 to 1 of water to matte medium. I found several advantages to that proportion. The mix went further. The mix dried faster. There was no white, cloudy residue when dry. Incidentally, unlike some, I did not let the matte medium settle over night after mixing with water. I find that practice questionable.
When I applied the glue mix, I started by taking a tablespoon full of the mix and pouring it off the spoon inside the two rails. This had the effect of further settling the ballast and absorbing it under the track and down under and beneath the tapered sides of the ballast without disturbing the ballast. Next, I placed the tablespoon filled with glue mix on each rail and tilted the tablespoon to the left or right as I pulled it along the rail so that the glue mix ran down over the tapered ballast without disturbing it.
After the glue application, in the few instances where my haste resulted in a “hole” in the ballast distribution, I simply dropped a small amount of the ballast mix on the disturbed area.
When the glue dried after about 24 hours, I went over the rails with a Bright Boy to clean off any dried glue so as not to disrupt the electrical contact as the metal wheel passed over the rails. Not all of my rail joints are soldered and, in a very few instances, the glue got between the rail joiner and the rail breaking electrical contact. A few movements of the rail joiner back and forth with a pair of snip nose pliers restored contact.
Hope that helps.
Rich
Alton Junction
Pretty much what I discovered in my first attempt at balalsting - in my area we have rather hard water and the tap water plus a few drops of dish soap just did not cut it, it wouldn't soak in and just made a crust on top of a whole lot of loose ballast. I had great success with 70% alcohol and glue mixed together - no initial wetting step. I could see the alcohol/glue mix soakign in through all the ballast as I dribbled it on.
Big project coming up, I figure I'll be coming back from Timonium with 100 pounds of ballast or so.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Big project coming up, I figure I'll be coming back from Timonium with 100 pounds of ballast or so. --Randy
Which raises an interesting question. How much weight has been added to a layout by ballast and the glue? Who knows, but it is an interesting question to ponder.
I had a horrible time with the "wet water" thing. I've completely abandoned both the material and the method of application.
I now use isopropyl alcohol, straight from the bottle, and I apply it with a pipette rather than a spray bottle. The alcohol is a better wetting agent, and I don't have to worry about whether I use distilled water, tap water or what. The pipette puts the alcohol where I want it, and not all over the rail heads, turnouts and surrounding scenery.
I could probably dilute the alcohol, but really, why? A big bottle of the stuff is a couple of dollars, and I don't have to worry about having another bottle of "dilute alcohol" around the workshop.
Besides working better as a wetting agent, the alcohol also helps my ballast dry faster. When I used wet water, I was used to waiting 2 or even 3 days before everything was dry again. With alcohol, it's dry overnight.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
rrinker ... Big project coming up, I figure I'll be coming back from Timonium with 100 pounds of ballast or so. --Randy
... Big project coming up, I figure I'll be coming back from Timonium with 100 pounds of ballast or so.
Why eat all them donuts, Randy? Just say no!
I use the side of an aluminum pie tin, the grocery store disposable type, to sift ballast over my rails. I find the outter grooming sort of takes care of itself if one doesn't make gross movements shaking the tilted pie tin.
I use the drug store 70% isopropyl alcohol to pre-wet the ballast. I use an empty, and cleaned, yellow glue dispenser for that, but I place a covering of green masking tape under the cap, and I p.rick a hole in the surface of the tape. The resultant dribble works just fine for control when I invert and gently squeeze the plastic glue bottle.
I use yellow glue diluted about 6/1 in favour of the water....really milky. And it works well. If I ever have to soften the ballast, add wet water, wait two-three, and pull up the rails.
I finish my grooming, just prior to the wetting, by tapping the rails with gentle taps using the same brush handle I just used to groom the ballast inside the ties. That does the fine tidying up.
Crandell
Thanks for the detailed descriptions of both your successes and failures. I will be tackling ballasting my track for the first time soon and I want to get it right.
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Like several posters, I have been using 71% alcohol 'straight'. I have a mister that I bought at a Target store(by the makeup section) and it sprays a very fine mist - no ballast movement. I use Matte Medium as well. I have cut mine with either 2 parts of water or 3 parts. I have some medical lab pipettes I use to apply the 'mix' to the ballast. Walthers has them in 5 or 6 packs on sale once in a while.
Once you have the dry ballast trimmed/brushed - take a large screwdriver and 'tap' it across the rails. You will be surprised how well the ballast settles. Just light taps - you do not want the ballast flying all over!
Either Matte Medium or diluted white glue will work - just be ready for 'noisy' trains when that white glue dries 'rock hard'.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
selector rrinker: ... Big project coming up, I figure I'll be coming back from Timonium with 100 pounds of ballast or so. --Randy Why eat all them donuts, Randy? Just say no!
rrinker: ... Big project coming up, I figure I'll be coming back from Timonium with 100 pounds of ballast or so. --Randy
But they're FREE while setting up the day before!
I use reclaimed Coffee Mate (other brands don't work as well!)containers to 'pour' my ballast. It takes just a few minutes to get the 'hang' of how to regulate how much ballast comes out but it goes very fast and I don't waste much. I then use a 1/2" foam brush to smooth it out. The ones in the photo are clear (after I remove the shrink wrap label) but the new ones are white so you cant see inside but you can still see the 'shadow' image of how much is left in the bottle. As you can see I keep several colors/grades handy for different areas on my layout.
- Bob
Well, I just happen to finish a bottle of Coffee Mate and the bottle was clear. They must have change back..good for me.
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!