Could someone please explain the woodlands scenic inclines and risers. I will begin laying track ( HO ) in the next few weeks and have decided to use woodland scenic risers. I am looking for an elevation of 2" to 4" on some areas of my layout . Do I need inclines and risers and what incline % do I use. If I want a 4" elevation what do I need in the way of risers and inclines. I am totally confused on this and can't seem to find any type of explanation from woodland scenic on how all of this works in conjunction with each other. Thank for any help and advice you can offer.
First of all it depends how big the layout is and your track plan. For example, I have 4 bridges, I had enough room to use 2% inclines to get to the bridges and had to use 4% inclines to come down from the bridges because I ran out of space. WS has a chart for how much room you need based on the grade %. For example you need 16 feet to rise 4" using the 2% inclines and 8 feet for a 4% grade.
I used the WS inclines and risers on my last layout which was only 5x9. They are super easy to use, but get a bit pricey on a larger layout. I'm only going to use them where it really makes sense (mainly curves) on my new room size layout due to cost. The rest of the foam I'll cut from the big pink sheets sold at HD. On my 5x9 HO layout I used the 4% risers which were a bit steep. On my next layout I plan to use the 2% inclines which worked much nicer in my little test section than the steep 4% inclines. If you have the room, go with 2%. One pack of 2% inclines will take you from zero to 4 inches and you'll need a second pack to get back down to grade.
The WS directions on the back of the incline and riser package are good enough to get the job done. They also have a book which explains in detail how to use the inclines and risers, but I think it cost $10 or so.
Its very simple:
First off, stick with 2% incline grades and you will be far better off than anything else in the long run.
WS inclines are ramps or grades available in 2%, 3% or 4%.
WS risers are already at a certain height {1/2 inch, 1 inch, etc} to go with the top end of the inclines so that the next incline can be stacked on top of the constant height riser to keep a certain height for the incline to incline on.
Both are flexible an can be bent ro flexed to almost any reasonable shape as your inclines rise on top your risers.
Now using them is another matter. I gather you want some kind of up-an-over and need 4" clearance for your trains. If you want a 4" clearance, using the chart WS has on it will tell you how many feet of incline you need to get there. Most likely, unless you have a large layout you will need a 4% incline grade on top of risers to get up that height. The setting that up, well, That part is easy enough. HOWEVER, running your trains up such a steep incline is a whole 'nother matter, and the trains rule the day and will win out over all every time! If the loco cannot pull that grade, it will fail every time!!! Even a 3 % grade is to steep for many locos. If you plan to run only short trains of 4-5 short cars and one loco, you might be ok at a 4% grade/incline. If you want to run 2 or more locos consisted together, you may be able to get them up your "hill" and/or increase the length of your trains. Adding curves to your inclines effectively increases the grade% you have. A strong curved 2% incline can have the effect of a 3% or 4% grade on the loco, making it harder for it to pull up the hill.
Most will tell you to stick with a 2% incline/grade only. adding curves to a 2% grade usually effectively raises the grade to about 3%, still a stress to you loco/locos, but doable if you stick to the 2% inclines only. to get up 4 inches of height you will need about a length of 200 inches of incline or 16.666 feet of incline to get there if my math is correct. {a 2% grade will raise 2" over a 100" span}
It is not impossible to work with 3 or 4% grade/inclines, but you are asking for trouble and to wear out your locos faster, even when consisted together.
**Ask me how I know to stay away from 3 and 4% grades. I tore up two layouts with them on it before I learned to stick with what a 2% grade afffords me in height gain. You can also lower track 2% grade and raise track 2 % to get your 4" of clearance!
**Also, you can use extruded foam pieces {the blue and pink stuff} to make your risers from if you find the WS risers getting too expensive. The extruded foam comes in 1/2", 1" and 2" sizes you may already wish to use asa base for your layout and have scraps from to use for risers.
*note, not using WS inclines/risers and using say plywood instead will have the same effect. A grade is a grade is a grade. SO NOT using the WS inclines/risers will not change a thing if you are still pushing a 4% grade..
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
I agree with Galaxy.
While the WS risers and inclines are pretty simple to use, they get pricey really quickly. 3% and 4% grades are really steep, even for model trains, and you probably want to steer clear unless you really are modeling a mountain railroad or something like that.
A very long time ago, I started building a layout from a book which had a couple of over / under features. Imagine my surprise when I realized that the ruling grade had to be 5% to make the transitions the designer was working with. That became a non-starter very quickly.
I would use the pink or blue styrofoam panels that you can buy at a home improvement store. Much cheaper (a whole 2'x8' panel can be had for less than the price of one riser / incline set. As long as you understand that % grade = units of rise in 100 units of run, you can create your own grades using extruded foam board, a level, and a rasp.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Oh, yeah. You'll also need to build a transition at the top and bottom of the 3% and 4% grades to minimize coupler failure as your loco crests the rise or bottoming out and derailing as it comes down the hill.
I think I'll stick with the WS risers, even though it may cost more, the accuracy and my sanity are worth it.
woodman I think I'll stick with the WS risers, even though it may cost more, the accuracy and my sanity are worth it.
Yes I agree, no thinking involved. I used them and they worked out great.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989