I'm finishing the planning for a new HO layout, 1950's, DCC, where a turntable and roundhouse will be a key feature. A 90 scale ft open pit turntable should do the trick. I'm looking for the best quality and most reliable tt, and cost is not a consideration. Any recommendations?
Alan Graas, Yosemite Nat'l Park
Walters -- # 933-2849 http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-2849
If you can find it, the "non-DCC" version (933-2840) is also very good. I've got the kit version, though the built-ups are generally regarded as being "better"
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
Both The Walthers 90' or 130' built up TT's {around $300} get high regards here on the forum form those who have them.
The DC or DCC version will fit whichever you have for layout control.
The built up version appears to be the better between the kit and the RTR built up due to the kits being rather fussy to put together. I have a kit I really didn't have room for and can attest to the fact that it is "fussy" so I gave up and didn't install it..
If you do a search in the "search our community" for "turntable" at the right you will find many multiples of threads on this very topic for your perusal.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
I will second the Walters 90' built up t/t the kit is pure garbage and it's amazing that they still even sell it. If you do a little surfing the 90' and the 130' kit both can be had for around $250 or less. Don't fret too much if you don't find a dcc version as there are plenty of postings on the net about how to add a simple decoder to the original version.If you like operation and don't have to have every single thing at your fingertips the standard version is just fine right out of the box.
I like it. This one is located at my new yard at Westport. And the control panel:
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
I've also been very satisfied with the Walthers Built Up 90 foot turntable, non dcc version..
I think you will be also.
Jarrell
Allegheny2-6-6-6 I will second the Walters 90' built up t/t the kit is pure garbage and it's amazing that they still even sell it. If you do a little surfing the 90' and the 130' kit both can be had for around $250 or less. Don't fret too much if you don't find a dcc version as there are plenty of postings on the net about how to add a simple decoder to the original version.If you like operation and don't have to have every single thing at your fingertips the standard version is just fine right out of the box.
I own the non-DCC version of the Walthers 130' turntable which I operate on my DCC layout. It is a great piece of equipment that operates flawlessly. Look no further, get the Walthers turntable.
There are a few other turntables out there including the hard to build Diamond Scale version, but Walthers really has no competition for its turntable since it comes RTR, right out of the box.
Walthers has recently introduced a DCC conversion kit for $180, but the guys on the NCE-DCC forum have indicated that you can undertake your own conversion for $15 or $20. Here is the link to the conversion process. Be sure to read the 3 or 4 follow up posts at that site for a complete explanantion.
http://www.trainnet.org/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=88&forum=DCForumID28
I have not done the conversion, though, and I see no reason to. On a DCC layout, the non-DCC turntable operates just fine from an AC powered control box. The only advantage of the DCC conversion is the capability to operate the turntable from a hand held throttle. How that works, I have no idea. Maybe someone can tell us how the DCC version of the turntable works and how you operate it.
Rich
Alton Junction
What's going on in the DIY conversion is that the buttons in the control box are being replaced (complemented, actually, since the buttons are still there and will work as before) by function outputs from a loco decoder. With the headligh function set up as a normal directional headlight, either whiteor yellow will be on depending on direction and when F0 is turned on. So in operation you select the address of the turntable decoder and set your throttle on forward or reverse, and activate F0, this 'presses' either the clockwise or counter-clockwise button. Since the motor outputs are not hooked to anything, changing the speed does nothing. The loco selection is done only to get a direction to operate either the yellow or white wires. If you use a decoder with more functions, or remap each wire to a different function, you could do it without selecting a direction - then you'd have like F1 being the clockwise button, F2 being counter-clockwise, F3 and F4 for the set and zero.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker What's going on in the DIY conversion is that the buttons in the control box are being replaced (complemented, actually, since the buttons are still there and will work as before) by function outputs from a loco decoder. With the headligh function set up as a normal directional headlight, either whiteor yellow will be on depending on direction and when F0 is turned on. So in operation you select the address of the turntable decoder and set your throttle on forward or reverse, and activate F0, this 'presses' either the clockwise or counter-clockwise button. Since the motor outputs are not hooked to anything, changing the speed does nothing. The loco selection is done only to get a direction to operate either the yellow or white wires. If you use a decoder with more functions, or remap each wire to a different function, you could do it without selecting a direction - then you'd have like F1 being the clockwise button, F2 being counter-clockwise, F3 and F4 for the set and zero. --Randy
Thanks, Randy